= HE-560 Enhancement Mod (v1.5) =

Feb 12, 2015 at 11:00 PM Post #227 of 342
  I skipped the part about the putty between the drivers and cup when I first modded the he560. I'm wondering if RTV silicone there would work or I'd need the actual eraser or putty stuff?

It would of course work too, but I'm paranoid about it leaking into the driver. Putty is much safer.
 
Feb 13, 2015 at 4:36 AM Post #228 of 342
After all the sealing mods, the bass goes VERY low now very audeze like. I just have the problem of hear squelching on the right pad as if the glue hasn't set. I thought I didn't push down properly while it was setting but after redoing it, it still has the same problem. Next step is to redo the crescent foams
 
Feb 13, 2015 at 9:03 AM Post #229 of 342
After all the sealing mods, the bass goes VERY low now very audeze like. I just have the problem of hear squelching on the right pad as if the glue hasn't set. I thought I didn't push down properly while it was setting but after redoing it, it still has the same problem. Next step is to redo the crescent foams

As I said, HE560 drivers are capable of some impressive low-bass extension and control, it just needs that seal.
 
Strange to hear the squelching issue; is it only when you put the headphones on/off?
 
Feb 13, 2015 at 9:36 AM Post #230 of 342
I'm using the he-400i, it happens when I slightly compress them so yea initially wearing them, I think it causing a slight channel imbalance, it must be affecting the resonance as I can hear it when I shake it.
 
Feb 13, 2015 at 10:17 AM Post #231 of 342
I'm using the he-400i, it happens when I slightly compress them so yea initially wearing them, I think it causing a slight channel imbalance, it must be affecting the resonance as I can hear it when I shake it.

Oh HE400i...I'm not sure how receptive it is of the sealing modifications then, as I haven't tried them on that.
 
Do you feel as though one side seals better than the other? Maybe there's a sealing imbalance.
 
Feb 14, 2015 at 7:50 PM Post #233 of 342
Wouldn't it be better to use blu-tack instead of putty. It is also reversible and less messy.
For putty , you only have to scrap it to remove..

What I used was kneadable eraser rubber putty, which is even less sticky than blu-tack.
 
Feb 16, 2015 at 1:06 AM Post #234 of 342
Hey Jerg, thanks for updating your mod to the latest and greatest! I had a question for you before I go ahead and order the needed parts. Do you feel the driver is more prone to damage now that the seal is basically perfect against the head? An increased chance to cause damage if you pull the cups off of your head quickly, or am I worrying too much. Your instructions on curing the sealent with a book on the cup, but being careful not to pressurize the driver got me thinking. So as long as the grill side has room to breath (I.e. not closed against a table) there shouldn't be a chance for damage during regular wear? Thanks for your thoughts, and of course for putting the time into documenting your mods. :)
 
Feb 16, 2015 at 12:01 PM Post #235 of 342
Hey Jerg, thanks for updating your mod to the latest and greatest! I had a question for you before I go ahead and order the needed parts. Do you feel the driver is more prone to damage now that the seal is basically perfect against the head? An increased chance to cause damage if you pull the cups off of your head quickly, or am I worrying too much. Your instructions on curing the sealent with a book on the cup, but being careful not to pressurize the driver got me thinking. So as long as the grill side has room to breath (I.e. not closed against a table) there shouldn't be a chance for damage during regular wear? Thanks for your thoughts, and of course for putting the time into documenting your mods.
smily_headphones1.gif

No probs man, I'm more than glad to share some modding experiences around, people who like to tinker around deserve to squeeze a bit more out of their cans if they want to.
 
As for your question, I don't think it's any risk at all if you just wear the headphones on/off the head in a regular fashion. it might only be bad if you push the cups against the head with some force when they are worn, then rapidly pull the two cups out completely, as you could imagine. Might burst your eardrums too.
 
The correct way is just to put the headphones on, gently adjust the two cups so you feel the seal take place, then just let it go; when you are finished listening, break the seal by tilting the cups slightly, then take the headphone off the head.
 
Feb 17, 2015 at 2:31 PM Post #236 of 342
Another head scratcher question here, how important is a complete seal around the entire driver to cup with the putty? Or is it merely connecting the driver to the cup?

If the sealing effect isn't important for driver to cup, would leaving 3-4 gaps achieve the same sonic benefit without greater risk of diaphragm damaging? I don't worry much for myself but when the headphones go to a meet, I don't want to explain the delicacy/weakness the mod have put the headphones into.
 
Feb 17, 2015 at 5:55 PM Post #237 of 342
Another head scratcher question here, how important is a complete seal around the entire driver to cup with the putty? Or is it merely connecting the driver to the cup?

If the sealing effect isn't important for driver to cup, would leaving 3-4 gaps achieve the same sonic benefit without greater risk of diaphragm damaging? I don't worry much for myself but when the headphones go to a meet, I don't want to explain the delicacy/weakness the mod have put the headphones into.

The seal will never be full-full, because there is always going to be airflow at the interface between the earpads and the head/hair. But it should be as good of a seal as you can mod (which is easy with the silicone adhesive on the outside, and putty on the inside), as I feel that that's crucial for the sake of diaphragm control for bass.
 
Actions that will wreck the diaphragm due to sudden acute pressure change will do so regardless of whether the cans are modded or not. You are worrying too much. 
smily_headphones1.gif

 
Feb 17, 2015 at 6:52 PM Post #238 of 342
Yea I don't think there will ever be suction cup-like pressure but last thing I want is a bad driver or an accelerated wear (if there's such thing as diaphragm wear).

I better get on getting finishing the mods, as is with a Focus-A and the shelf liner alone, I feel the bass is just a hair lacking and the mids/highs overpowering. The sealing of driver and pad should even this out to something epic I'm hoping.
 
Feb 17, 2015 at 8:17 PM Post #239 of 342
  Yea I don't think there will ever be suction cup-like pressure but last thing I want is a bad driver or an accelerated wear (if there's such thing as diaphragm wear).

I better get on getting finishing the mods, as is with a Focus-A and the shelf liner alone, I feel the bass is just a hair lacking and the mids/highs overpowering. The sealing of driver and pad should even this out to something epic I'm hoping.

The ironic thing is that the seal mods might actually REDUCE diaphragm wear.
 
The reason being that over-excursion of the diaphragm seems to occur with HE560 when reproducing very low frequencies at high loudness, because it is single-ended; and improved seal on the ear-side fixes that over-excursion (hence also the improved low/sub-bass control as a beneficial side effect).
 
Feb 17, 2015 at 8:19 PM Post #240 of 342
  The ironic thing is that the seal mods might actually REDUCE diaphragm wear.
 
The reason being that over-excursion of the diaphragm seems to occur with HE560 when reproducing very low frequencies at high loudness, because it is single-ended; and improved seal on the ear-side fixes that over-excursion (hence also the improved low/sub-bass control as a beneficial side effect).


Makes sense. Would you say the sealing of the driver+cup and baffle+pad increases bass quantity as well or just quality/control?
 

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