[canthearyou]

From a thermodynamic standpoint, there really shouldn't be any significant difference in the case temperature with the block: The same number of watts of heat generated by the amp have to make their way from the inside of the case to the outside, and the efficiency of the case to transfer them to ambient air hasn't changed at all.  Where the block will make a big difference is in the temperature of the final output components and the internal air temperature.  Where the finals previously had to heat up to a high temperature in order to get the heat to jump the air gap to the case, the block greatly increases the efficiency of moving it from the device to the case, lowering the temperature of the heat source.  What you'd really like to find out is what the difference is in the heat sink's temperature before and after the block is installed, but you'd need to put thermocouples in there to find out.

The aluminum block is far more efficient at transferring heat from the heatsink to the case than the air surrounding the heatsink. I would believe one would see an increase in case temperature, especially over the block.

 

[Socratease]

The aluminum block is far more efficient at transferring heat from the heatsink to the case than the air surrounding the heatsink. I would believe one would see an increase in case temperature, especially over the block.

If the overall case temperature went up with the addition of the block as you believe, then more heat energy would be lost to the outside air, because the flow of heat energy goes up in proportion to the difference in temperature for a given object.  Where would that extra energy come from?  If that increased heat loss wasn't being replaced by increased heat generated within the H10, then the case would cool down again until it reached equilibrium.
 
You're probably right that the block alters the distribution of temperature around the surface of the case, making it hotter near the block but also cooler elsewhere.  But aluminum's high heat conductivity will limit how big that difference can get.

 

[canthearyou]

If the overall case temperature went up with the addition of the block as you believe, then more heat energy would be lost to the outside air, because the flow of heat energy goes up in proportion to the difference in temperature for a given object.  Where would that extra energy come from?  If that increased heat loss wasn't being replaced by increased heat generated within the H10, then the case would cool down again until it reached equilibrium.

You're probably right that the block alters the distribution of temperature around the surface of the case, making it hotter near the block but also cooler elsewhere.  But aluminum's high heat conductivity will limit how big that difference can get.

You probably know more than I.

 

[wwmhf]

 
OTH.. It will be hard to pull the case with it stuck to the heat sink....

 
This is also my concern too: "It will be hard to pull the case with it stuck to the heat sink...."

 

[hpamdr]

   
This is also my concern too: "It will be hard to pull the case with it stuck to the heat sink...."

2Burson : Better designs (for easy removal) is to add conductive foam to do contact with the case instead of sticking it !

 

[BaddogAudio]

have you heard both the H10 with and without the V5?   Also similar setting to the Burson?  I just ask cause having a direct chance to listen to both amps and pre/post upgrade is the best reference.

 

[Socratease]

It looked to me like Burson was using the same blue thermal pad material I used, which sticks a bit but isn't really an adhesive.

 

[railrus]

Guess happened? Murphy strike again
 
I returned both noisy dual opamps back to Burson and after waited for about a month .....  Guess what happened?
 
They sent me only ONE!
 
The saga started around Xmas last year. I thought the single opamp would be an inexpensive upgrade to my US$200 H10 (bought directly from China). Instead of getting the single opamp, I received the dual opamp. Was miffed but they offered a generous offer and took the bait. After a considerable time, the single opamp arrives.  Then the noise pops up and read that Gustard has voltage rails higher than the Burson. After a quick swap and discover the dual opamps are getting bad. So off to Australia and hope the this will finally end the endless waiting. Two days ago i got this.
 
So nearly after four months, my setup is still WIP. Burson make good stuff but the backend has to improve. First wrong model sent. Then wrong quantity. My patience is being really really tested. Each time something goes wrong and I have to wait for another month or so.
 
Please Dennis do send opamp dual one unit ASAP. My hair goes into panic whenever my hand goes near my head. My sanity is in your hands.

 

[willowbrook]

Guess happened? Murphy strike again

I returned both noisy dual opamps back to Burson and after waited for about a month .....  Guess what happened?

They sent me only ONE!

The saga started around Xmas last year. I thought the single opamp would be an inexpensive upgrade to my US$200 H10 (bought directly from China). Instead of getting the single opamp, I received the dual opamp. Was miffed but they offered a generous offer and took the bait. After a considerable time, the single opamp arrives.  Then the noise pops up and read that Gustard has voltage rails higher than the Burson. After a quick swap and discover the dual opamps are getting bad. So off to Australia and hope the this will finally end the endless waiting. Two days ago i got this.

So nearly after four months, my setup is still WIP. Burson make good stuff but the backend has to improve. First wrong model sent. Then wrong quantity. My patience is being really really tested. Each time something goes wrong and I have to wait for another month or so.

Please Dennis do send opamp dual one unit ASAP. My hair goes into panic whenever my hand goes near my head. My sanity is in your hands.

I personally have excellent experience with Burson, but so sorry to hear that. I think they are really busy and all, but it should work out in the end.

 

[leggy]

So been using the H10 since one week with my HE400i and DT770 80ohm and I noticed it is rolling of the highs/details and pushing back the vocals a little bit. It's a nice amp if someone is looking for a laid back sound experiment but I am looking for an amp that increase details and bring forward the highs and vocals. Would changing the op-amps achieve that or I better look another amp?

 

[willowbrook]

So been using the H10 since one week with my HE400i and DT770 80ohm and I noticed it is rolling of the highs/details and pushing back the vocals a little bit. It's a nice amp if someone is looking for a laid back sound experiment but I am looking for an amp that increase details and bring forward the highs and vocals. Would changing the op-amps achieve that or I better look another amp?

Not sure about the bringing the highs and vocals forward, might be worthwhile to switch headphones instead for that. Switching op-amps definitely do make a difference in terms of clarity/feeling of grain. You can alter the brightness of the amp a little bit enough to make the headphone a good or a bad match with op-amps matching your needs. Not sure about changing the sound signature though. 

 

[leggy]

Thank you Willowbrook. I guess I have to look into different standalone amp, one that at least doesn't smooth out part of the range

 

[lenroot77]

Deleted

 

[Frihed89]

This has probably been covered, but the thread is too long to look.
 
Does anyone know what kind of output devices it uses?

 

[mandrake50]

  This has probably been covered, but the thread is too long to look.
 
Does anyone know what kind of output devices it uses?

"Each channel has a BB OPA134PA - socketed - for voltage amplification and an eight transistor discrete buffer with 2 ea. 2SA1837. 2SC4793, C546B, C556B. Dual mono layout - more or less ... the circuit board itself is shared and not completely symmetric. There's a pair of NE5532s at back for balanced-unbalanced input conversion, and a pair of transistors (TIP122 TIP127) with trim pots and circuitry between the input and the main amplifier which looks a bit like voltage regulators to me but I can't see where they fit in the scheme of things."
 
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/blogs/rjm/1214-gustard-h10-headphone-amplifier.html
 
This is the best I could find! I did not see this mentioned anywhere in this thread... but it is a pretty long one.