[reiserFS]

The h10 is back up on massdrop if anyone is looking for one.

I'm really tempted to buy it at $299 (Probably comes down to 340-360 euros including shipping and taxes), but the mentioned QC issues have me left worrying. 

 

[BassDigger]

  I'm really tempted to buy it at $299 (Probably comes down to 340-360 euros including shipping and taxes), but the mentioned QC issues have me left worrying. 

 
I'm not sure that I share your concern. I think the import tax has been a bigger problem for some (depending on location).
 
But saying that, this is a Chinese company; there have been some reoccurring niggling concerns. But I recall nothing that wasn't quite easily put right.
What quality issues are you dubious of?
 
On another note: I think that I'm going to have to narrow my browser window; the "Recent Images In This Thread" display is quite distracting! 

 

 

[lenroot77]

I'm really tempted to buy it at $299 (Probably comes down to 340-360 euros including shipping and taxes), but the mentioned QC issues have me left worrying. 

Apparently they shipped the incorrect power cable last time. That's kinda lousy, but that's not really that big of a deal as its a cheap fix if one didn't want to go thru the proper channels. It also could have just been a shipping error.

With that said I'm in the drop and can't wait to hear this amp!

 

[Noodlz]

Just to chime in with the h10 cable issue. i ordered from china directly for mine and came across the same issue with the power, but its actually not a cable issue, there's a switch inside the unit that you can change from 220V or 110V (we need the 110V in the US). The cable actually doesnt matter as far as i know. Aside from that issue (which has nothing to do with their QC). the quality is just stellar. 

 

[reiserFS]

   
I'm not sure that I share your concern. I think the import tax has been a bigger problem for some (depending on location).
 
But saying that, this is a Chinese company; there have been some reoccurring niggling concerns. But I recall nothing that wasn't quite easily put right.
What quality issues are you dubious of?
 
On another note: I think that I'm going to have to narrow my browser window; the "Recent Images In This Thread" display is quite distracting! 

 

I'm dubious of the volume pot issue, is this an easy fix?

 

[BassDigger]

  I'm dubious of the volume pot issue, is this a easy fix?

 
I think that you're referring to the problem with the linkage, between knob and pot. As I understand it, it is easy to fix.
But mine was fine.
It'd be interesting to hear from someone who has actually had the problem.
 
Regarding cables, yes the voltage is irrelevant. I think that some have had problems with connecting the cable into the IEC socket, on the back of the amp. The contacts, on the cable, could be either too loose or too tight. Again, an easy fix.
 
But, the internal voltage setting has to be correct. If it was set at 110v, and plugged into 230 volts, there is the potential for damage. But not the other way around.
 
I think the most serious issue is the design of the front panel; how the 'phone socket is located in a recess. This has caused some to be unable to use certain plugs, because the body of the plug is too baulky (fat) to fit into the recess.
This will only affect those with the baulkiest of plugs; there's plenty of space far a 'normal' plug.
Although, I think it may have been a contributing factor for a brain fade moment, that I had recently. I'm still running mine in. I was at home and decided to leave my rig on and playing (in the background), for the day, to put a few more hours on it. This was in the morning. Later that evening I thought that I'd better do some listening, as it had been running all day. I put the 'phones on and the sound was very poor. My first thought was that the amp (or my dac) was overheating. So, I switched it off. Only then did I realise that I'd been running just one channel, all day long; the plug was incorrectly inserted, and I hadn't noticed, until then!! 

 

[Jozurr]

  Some opamps are offered in both single or dual configurations. If you know that you want a dual dip8 part, you should find a chart in the  data sheet that lists the specific part number for the dual, same as if you want a single opamap.
 
The OPA627/637 are single opamps. Look at the data sheet and notice only one triangle (the electronics symbol for an opamp.
 
Here is what to look for.
 
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/semiconductors/chpt-8/the-operational-amplifier/
 
The following diagram shows the pin connections for single op-amps (741 included) when housed in an 8-pin DIP (Dual Inline Package) integrated circuit:
 
Some models of op-amp come two to a package, including the popular models TL082 and 1458. These are called “dual” units, and are typically housed in an 8-pin DIP package as well, with the following pin connections:
 
 
BTW, I seem to remember several people posting the entire part number for opamps they are using. In that case, just search for those. For instance the AD797ANZ is the entire number for a DIP8 package.

 
Thank you mandrake50. I have saved this post! I also understand how to read the datasheets better.  
 
Also, that's exactly what I've done now. Went ahead and ordered 2 x AD797ANZ in DIP8. Will post impressions once they come in!
 
Cheers

 

[reiserFS]

   
I think that you're referring to the problem with the linkage, between knob and pot. As I understand it, it is easy to fix.
But mine was fine.
It'd be interesting to hear from someone who has actually had the problem.
 
Regarding cables, yes the voltage is irrelevant. I think that some have had problems with connecting the cable into the IEC socket, on the back of the amp. The contacts, on the cable, could be either too loose or too tight. Again, an easy fix.
 
But, the internal voltage setting has to be correct. If it was set at 110v, and plugged into 230 volts, there is the potential for damage. But not the other way around.
 
I think the most serious issue is the design of the front panel; how the 'phone socket is located in a recess. This has caused some to be unable to use certain plugs, because the body of the plug is too baulky (fat) to fit into the recess.
This will only affect those with the baulkiest of plugs; there's plenty of space far a 'normal' plug.
Although, I think it may have been a contributing factor for a brain fade moment, that I had recently. I'm still running mine in. I was at home and decided to leave my rig on and playing (in the background), for the day, to put a few more hours on it. This was in the morning. Later that evening I thought that I'd better do some listening, as it had been running all day. I put the 'phones on and the sound was very poor. My first thought was that the amp (or my dac) was overheating. So, I switched it off. Only then did I realise that I'd been running just one channel, all day long; the plug was incorrectly inserted, and I hadn't noticed, until then!! 

Thanks, guess I'll pull the trigger on one then! 

 

[mandrake50]

Apparently they shipped the incorrect power cable last time. That's kinda lousy, but that's not really that big of a deal as its a cheap fix if one didn't want to go thru the proper channels. It also could have just been a shipping error.

With that said I'm in the drop and can't wait to hear this amp!

The last Massdrop batch was shipped with an incorrect cable. It had a euro (I think) plug on the wall end. It could not be plugged into a US wall socket. They shipped the proper cable and I had mine within a couple of weeks. It did not matter as I have numerous IEC to US plug cables around here. In any case, there was no possibility of damaging the amp. Other than that, everything else on the unit that I got was in perfect working condition.

 

[genclaymore]

That's why it pays to have a lot of power cables laying around from older psus or other computers and monitors I had over the years, as I also had gotten a H10 earlier this year that came with the same euro cable.

 

[Bigdog33]

Hi, everyone! I just ordered the H10, as well as a set of LCD2f's, so I guess it goes without saying how excited I am!  I guess this is kind of a meaningless post, but I just wanted to say that I'm now apart of the H10 club and will be excited to post my impressions!  
 
Hopefully I don't have any issues with the amp that some have referenced, but knowing my luck, they probably shipped both the wrong power cable and forgot the volume knob entirely!
 
I need to read back through everything to learn more about the different opamps to roll through, as that sounds really interesting/fun.  Is it very easy to change those out? Does any one know if there's a guide/instructions on how to accomplish it? I've always been too scared to tinker with things for fear of causing irreparable damage! 

 

[BassDigger]

  Hi, everyone! I just ordered the H10, as well as a set of LCD2f's, so I guess it goes without saying how excited I am!  I guess this is kind of a meaningless post, but I just wanted to say that I'm now apart of the H10 club and will be excited to post my impressions!  
...
I need to read back through everything to learn more about the different opamps to roll through, as that sounds really interesting/fun.  Is it very easy to change those out? Does any one know if there's a guide/instructions on how to accomplish it? I've always been too scared to tinker with things for fear of causing irreparable damage! 

 Firstly, welcome to the club (Perhaps 'crew' might be a better description.) Bigdog (is there a story with that name?). 
 
We will be sharing the same amp and 'phone combination. Most think that they're a good match. I wouldn't disagree, but I have some reservations, both with the amp and the 'phones. If you're going to read the whole thread (and why not; it's not that long), (or you could just concentrate on the last 10 or 20 pages) then cool; you'll see what I'm talking about.
Also, regarding your queries, perhaps you may find some answers if you follow that (your own) suggestion.
 
I'll be interested to read your impressions. If we're going to be 'comparing notes', it'd be useful to know what source you'll be using to feed your H10?
Additionally, I notice that you have a WA6. I, for one, would be interested to read about comparisons between H10 and WA6, when driving the LCD2f.
 
Enjoy!

 

[Jozurr]

 Firstly, welcome to the club (Perhaps 'crew' might be a better description.) Bigdog (is there a story with that name?). 

We will be sharing the same amp and 'phone combination. Most think that they're a good match. I wouldn't disagree, but I have some reservations, both with the amp and the 'phones. If you're going to read the whole thread (and why not; it's not that long), (or you could just concentrate on the last 10 or 20 pages) then cool; you'll see what I'm talking about.
Also, regarding your queries, perhaps you may find some answers if you follow that (your own) suggestion.

I'll be interested to read your impressions. If we're going to be 'comparing notes', it'd be useful to know what source you'll be using to feed your H10?
Additionally, I notice that you have a WA6. I, for one, would be interested to read about comparisons between H10 and WA6, when driving the LCD2f.

Enjoy!

+1

 

[Bigdog33]

Thanks guys, I'll definitely provide a comparison.  I've never posted a review or my thoughts on how things sound, so this will be fun!
 
I will have to say that from what I've gathered the WA6 does not provide enough current for planar magnetics such as the LCD2's, as it only puts out 550mW @60Ω.  So, I'll be going into the comparison slightly biased.
 
​As for my source, I'll be going from a Macbook pro to a schiit bifrost through the macbook's optical out.  

 

[BassDigger]

  Thanks guys, I'll definitely provide a comparison.  I've never posted a review or my thoughts on how things sound, so this will be fun!
 
I will have to say that from what I've gathered the WA6 does not provide enough current for planar magnetics such as the LCD2's, as it only puts out 550mW @60Ω.  So, I'll be going into the comparison slightly biased.
 
​As for my source, I'll be going from a Macbook pro to a schiit bifrost through the macbook's optical out.  

 
Yeah, the WA6 SE version should be significantly better, for planar 'phones. Maybe you'll find some characteristics of a slight lack of power, with the standard WA6, when comparing to the H10. But it'll still be interesting to hear about the differences; the standard WA6 still has a reasonable power output, and tubes are a bit more 'flexible' in their power delivery; they don't hit hard distortion, in the way that transistors do.
The main thing is to keep an open mind and just report what you think you hear.
 
Going slightly OT: If I may suggest, perhaps your next 'upgrade' should be to use something to re-clock and tidy up your Mac's digital output signal. I'm not anti-optical connection, or anything; optical electrically isolates the equipment downstream; I'd probably use optical, if I used a computer for a transport. I've just come to appreciate the importance of a good quality digital signal in getting the best out of any DAC. (If you want continue and discuss this further, may I suggest the main Gustard thread? 

 I'm the biggest critic of OT around here!)
Besides, I've found the LCD2f to be very good quality, in ultimate terms. And the H10 is no slouch (and may be a 'giant killer' with the right op-amps); maximising the quality of the input signal will surely have a worthwhile effect.