GUSTARD DAC-R26 Balanced Decoder R2R+1Bit Dual Native Decoding Music Bridge

[Jake2]

I’m about to order a LHY OCK-2 master clock for the R26. Do I order the 75ohm or 50ohm? I seem to remember some controversy regarding the external master clock connector. Is it 75 or 50 ohm? Thanks for the input?

The OCK-2 has internal jumper switches for each output that can independently be set to 50 or 75 ohms. If you specify 50ohms (which will match the 50ohm input of the R26) they'll set them all to 50, but you could later change one or more to 75 if you got a component with a 75ohm clock input. You just have to unscrew and remove the lid which is easy to do.

 

[sbgk]

the most obvious thing to mod is to remove the 2 hulking great transformers from the case

seems better slam, smoothness, solidity and detail

just removed left hand side and slid them out, resting on their foam supports. They won't be going back in, may get a box for them, no cable cutting or soldering was involved, think it helps the dc cables not being bent back on each other, though main benefit is further separation of power and signal.

do this mod at your own risk and make sure all live wires are insulated to avoid shock and death

 

[Jake2]

the most obvious thing to mod is to remove the 2 hulking great transformers from the case

seems better slam, smoothness, solidity and detail

just removed left hand side and slid them out, resting on their foam supports. They won't be going back in, may get a box for them, no cable cutting or soldering was involved, think it helps the dc cables not being bent back on each other, though main benefit is further separation of power and signal.

do this mod at your own risk and make sure all live wires are insulated to avoid shock and death

Interesting. Thanks for sharing. Moving transformers around /outside the case is outside my comfort zone. Though I do appreciate no soldering or cable cutting. So will you just leave the left side unattached for now?

 

[Deleeh]

Hello,

don't get me wrong, but some mods are a bit, well, how shall we put it, over the top?
If you trust the readings, the R26 as it is available for purchase is actually more than OK.
And would not go on sale.

I'll put up with the fuses and cables.
I'll also put up with cubes from the 7 earth crusts, a piece of the moon and things like that, because there are also esoterics, even if they have the money for it.

But dismantling transformers, even though they are actually already well and solidly built, and are also mostly shielded together in the housing, should be enough.
If necessary, the housing could be completely insulated, if you believe in that.
But it is too much, removing a transformer can have the opposite effect and cause additional problems due to external influences.
Just as an incentive.

Also the subject of networks, personally I dropped out at some point because it simply became illiterate for me as far as that was concerned.
Because you can't see through it any more.

All in all, what the Threath is doing here has become a bit daunting, even from a personal point of view.
Because there are people interested in the R26 and most of them are looking for feedback and don't want to be confronted with esoteric things, overmanned network technology and things like that.
You have to understand that a little bit for those who are not so technically versed.

My suggestion is why not open a R26 Hardcore Threat?
So that people who are normal can get decent feedback for normal questions and such.

Please don't take it the wrong way when I say that.
It's a bit about the basics and not about insulting your expertise.
It's fantastic even if I don't understand a lot of things and believe what you say somewhere.
But another place for such an exchange would be better.
The thread is otherwise great, helpful as well as instructive.
And it has also grown well and is accepted in the community.

Therefore, the request for less experienced people to show some understanding, because they are also quite quickly overwhelmed with the possibilities that the R26 offers.
As you can see, there are always new members who have bought the R26 but quickly reach their limits.

 

[sajunky]

But dismantling transformers, even though they are actually already well and solidly built, and are also mostly shielded together in the housing, should be enough.

But removing transformers is a cheaper and more effective solution than your money sucking fuses. LOL

And I have yet to see paralleling R26 ladder modules. Ooops, looks like another idea.

 

[Stellabagpuss]

Hello,

don't get me wrong, but some mods are a bit, well, how shall we put it, over the top?
If you trust the readings, the R26 as it is available for purchase is actually more than OK.
And would not go on sale.

I'll put up with the fuses and cables.
I'll also put up with cubes from the 7 earth crusts, a piece of the moon and things like that, because there are also esoterics, even if they have the money for it.

But dismantling transformers, even though they are actually already well and solidly built, and are also mostly shielded together in the housing, should be enough.
If necessary, the housing could be completely insulated, if you believe in that.
But it is too much, removing a transformer can have the opposite effect and cause additional problems due to external influences.
Just as an incentive.

Also the subject of networks, personally I dropped out at some point because it simply became illiterate for me as far as that was concerned.
Because you can't see through it any more.

All in all, what the Threath is doing here has become a bit daunting, even from a personal point of view.
Because there are people interested in the R26 and most of them are looking for feedback and don't want to be confronted with esoteric things, overmanned network technology and things like that.
You have to understand that a little bit for those who are not so technically versed.

My suggestion is why not open a R26 Hardcore Threat?
So that people who are normal can get decent feedback for normal questions and such.

Please don't take it the wrong way when I say that.
It's a bit about the basics and not about insulting your expertise.
It's fantastic even if I don't understand a lot of things and believe what you say somewhere.
But another place for such an exchange would be better.
The thread is otherwise great, helpful as well as instructive.
And it has also grown well and is accepted in the community.

Therefore, the request for less experienced people to show some understanding, because they are also quite quickly overwhelmed with the possibilities that the R26 offers.
As you can see, there are always new members who have bought the R26 but quickly reach their limits.

Great idea,and l am as guilty as anyone, but l think having a separate mods section is great idea... Send us a link once you have set it up. Your correct, if l was a first time user of the R26, this thread would be daunting

 

[camrector]

The OCK-2 has internal jumper switches for each output that can independently be set to 50 or 75 ohms. If you specify 50ohms (which will match the 50ohm input of the R26) they'll set them all to 50, but you could later change one or more to 75 if you got a component with a 75ohm clock input. You just have to unscrew and remove the lid which is easy to do.

The connectors aren’t going to change.
Those are 75ohm and result in an immediate impedance mismatch.
Noticeable or not, the two most important factors told to us about clocks from every authority, white paper and company are phase noise measurements, and impedance matching.
LHY tossed their measurements and have a known impedance mismatch for 50ohm output.

 

[JackJohnson316]

The connectors aren’t going to change.
Those are 75ohm and result in an immediate impedance mismatch.
Noticeable or not, the two most important factors told to us about clocks from every authority, white paper and company are phase noise measurements, and impedance matching.
LHY tossed their measurements and have a known impedance mismatch for 50ohm output.

Hopefully with a sinewave it won't be that big of a problem connecting a 50ohm bnc cable to the 75ohm LHY master clock output connector. I don't know why Gustard made the R26 with a 50ohm bnc connector. It's very difficult to find a solid core silver bnc 50ohm cable. I looked at the new Mutec Ref10Nano, which does have a 50ohm output, but it's $1800 and only offers square wave. It seems the best option for the Gustard R26 is the LHY or a custom Afterdark master clock. Any other suggestions for a master clock for the R26? Thanks

 

[camrector]

Hopefully with a sinewave it won't be that big of a problem connecting a 50ohm bnc cable to the 75ohm LHY master clock output connector. I don't know why Gustard made the R26 with a 50ohm bnc connector. It's very difficult to find a solid core silver bnc 50ohm cable. I looked at the new Mutec Ref10Nano, which does have a 50ohm output, but it's $1800 and only offers square wave. It seems the best option for the Gustard R26 is the LHY or a custom Afterdark master clock. Any other suggestions for a master clock for the R26? Thanks

After Dark or Cyber Shaft for sure.
Square is what you want and I trust Mutec to deliver there.

 

[Dandoudou]

Any other suggestions for a master clock for the R26? Thanks

The clock that Gustard makes and the Leon Bodnar.

 

[Stellabagpuss]

Leo Bodnar

 

[rodthebod]

the most obvious thing to mod is to remove the 2 hulking great transformers from the case

seems better slam, smoothness, solidity and detail

just removed left hand side and slid them out, resting on their foam supports. They won't be going back in, may get a box for them, no cable cutting or soldering was involved, think it helps the dc cables not being bent back on each other, though main benefit is further separation of power and signal.

do this mod at your own risk and make sure all live wires are insulated to avoid shock and death

If you have gone this far with removal of the trannies in the R26 then it is good practice to twist the cables to create better RF screening.

Ideally the twist should be at 45 degrees for the wires but any attempt should offer better screening. This will however shorten the length of the connecting wires so a bit of trial and error is involved. Twisting both mains input (red and black) as well as the clear output low voltage cables is recommended.

Of course, this is something that can easily be done to internally mounted transformers within the R26, and is highly recommended IMHO.

 

[rodthebod]

Hopefully with a sinewave it won't be that big of a problem connecting a 50ohm bnc cable to the 75ohm LHY master clock output connector. I don't know why Gustard made the R26 with a 50ohm bnc connector. It's very difficult to find a solid core silver bnc 50ohm cable. I looked at the new Mutec Ref10Nano, which does have a 50ohm output, but it's $1800 and only offers square wave. It seems the best option for the Gustard R26 is the LHY or a custom Afterdark master clock. Any other suggestions for a master clock for the R26? Thanks

Leo Bodnar Reference clock is an outstanding clock, it adds a cohesiveness to the sound which is totally addictive, especially if you use better connections, see Post #6,310 of 7,243 the fact it's £165 and is UK made makes it a bargain.

 

[sbgk]

not heard about twisting power cables before, think I'll keep that for signal cables

further mods

removed clock and bluetooth cables, wonder if clock cable was acting as an antenna as removal made a difference and those adding an external clock say the right cable is important

also removed the optical connection, something we did to the squeezebox touch as it just creates noise, just picked away at it with pliers until it was gone leaving 3 connections on the board, which I snipped

swapped the 2 white mains power connectors which means the wires for the transformers are no longer crossing and the transformers can be fully separate and further away from each other. Removed the metal screen plate to allow the dc cables to remain separate, think there might be some loss of shielding, but the transformers are further away now, might look at adding shielding back in or cutting holes for the dc wires in the original plate.

Shall look at boxing in or mounting the transformers so it's more robust, but sounds mighty fine.

turned out the screen was critical to the sound, drilled a hole to take the wires in the new location and filled in the old hole and reinstalled, sound without it was a bit thin

 

[Fluty]

not heard about twisting power cables before, think I'll keep that for signal cables

further mods

removed clock and bluetooth cables, wonder if clock cable was acting as an antenna as removal made a difference and those adding an external clock say the right cable is important

also removed the optical connection, something we did to the squeezebox touch as it just creates noise, just picked away at it with pliers until it was gone leaving 3 connections on the board, which I snipped

swapped the 2 white mains power connectors which means the wires for the transformers are no longer crossing and the transformers can be fully separate and further away from each other. Removed the metal screen plate to allow the dc cables to remain separate, think there might be some loss of shielding, but the transformers are further away now, might look at adding shielding back in or cutting holes for the dc wires in the original plate.

Shall look at boxing in or mounting the transformers so it's more robust, but sounds mighty fine.

Shame to remove the optical connection - in my experience optical is the best input of all when playing CDs especially using a glass connection rather than plastic. Similar to the fmc connection for internet streaming in isolating electrical noise. Of course maybe you don't like CD, but for me this is the best sounding of all sources!