GUSTARD DAC-R26 Balanced Decoder R2R+1Bit Dual Native Decoding Music Bridge

[Dandoudou]

However, my point is that I question whether the Eversolo is the best external streamer for the R26 considering the lack of IIS and LAN outputs.

It may be better.
When I got the R26, I compared it to all the external streamers that I have, and that all work with GentooPlayer/diretta.
My PI2AES beats with all its outputs, the internal streamer of the R26.

 

[Dandion]

And yes, i have the fmc tweak. Purple fuse is in the mail

 

[Jake2]

Sweet looking rig though the SR master fuse is the one you want, apparently.

Edit - needless to say USD600 is getting ridiculous, I mean where do you stop... I reckon it'd be much better spent on a Tubulus Concentus USB cable for eg.

 

[Dandion]

I don't have much experience with audiophile fuses so, I ordered another one for my amplifier and for the R26 to try out.

Note:
1) USB output of the streamer offer the best SQ for the R26 with eversolo.
2) Speakers are olympica nova 3

 

[Dandoudou]

Edit - needless to say USD600 is getting ridiculous, I mean where do you stop...

At these prices, you can start by buying a good fuse, and then look for a DAC that would work with it.

 

[m-i-c-k-e-y]

The TeraDak T-S212 is a very solid
FMC. (OCXO version)

Wicked! What was your previous FMC or compared it to?

Edit: sorry was late...well @Jake2 when you have the time..

 

[Dandion]

I had the rose RS250 for 1 year and definitely, the dmp a6 is a very good streamer . you can have the same performance of the rs250 with a lot less money and less buggy rose connect software .

The dmp a6 is a kind of Swiss knife streamer and Specially if you have some albums to play with the internal disk. The software is flawless and Tidal connect. Very good match for the R26.

 

[Jake2]

At these prices, you can start by buying a good fuse, and then look for a DAC that would work with it.

After seriously contemplating an upgrade fuse for my Puritan maybe at the level of the M-1 or even the Master (cough) I realised it doesn't take one (has a thermo-magnetic breaker with solid silver contacts, something I'd much rather spend dosh on than a fuse) so I am notionally richer than I thought.

And as result am just about to place an order for an M-1 for the R26...

 

[Gary M]

The top lid of the R26 has indeed the small aluminium 'L' bracket centred on the rear underside which is tight when replacing the lid (good tolerances). The solution is to loosen slightly (half a turn) the two Allen bolts at either end of the rear connection panel at the top allowing it to fall back by a tiny amount. Once the lid is back in place then tweak them all tight as well as replacing the centre bolt for the L bracket.

I too have read about factory tightened (by machines) bolts having a detrimental sonic effect on chassis, all I can say is that having the connections slightly loosened will reduce the effect of higher frequency ringing within an aluminium structure but obviously not too loose as to permit rattling or vibration.

I just loosened all the screws on the bottom of my R26 and the improvement in top end and micro detail was impressive. Thank you to all who recommended it.

 

[mgsu]

I just loosened all the screws on the bottom of my R26 and the improvement in top end and micro detail was impressive. Thank you to all who recommended it.

You are welcome!
Try also untighten the connector screws on the back of the unit.

Since the connectors are soldered to the PCB, tight connector screws can also put the PCB under tension which can worsen SQ, meaning it can transfer vibrations from the chassis to the PCB.

By untightening all screws from the chassis and from the connectors resulted in my case in a more spacious and holographic presentation of the DAC, also a tad better micro details.

 

[Gary M]

You are welcome!
Try also untighten the connector screws on the back of the unit.

Since the connectors are soldered to the PCB, tight connector screws can also put the PCB under tension which can worsen SQ, meaning it can transfer vibrations from the chassis to the PCB.

By untightening all screws from the chassis and from the connectors resulted in my case in a more spacious and holographic presentation of the DAC, also a tad better micro details.

Thank you. I'll give it a go.

 

[ketosus]

Though I don't have this Terdark, I can presume by experience what is the audible difference that it should make over a stock FMC, because I tried a lot of things over time. For the lowest eventual improvement, it should bring a more natural timbre to the sound.

I have a question. I noticed you have Holo Audio RED and R26. Since both of these devices have a LAN port, could you please tell me what is the difference in sound. I realize that there is a difference but is it clearly noticeable or a marginally small difference. Thank you for your help.

 

[camrector]

Though I don't have this Terdark, I can presume by experience what is the audible difference that it should make over a stock FMC, because I tried a lot of things over time. For the lowest eventual improvement, it should bring a more natural timbre to the sound.

My system honestly consists of so few components that having the highest quality components within my price limitations was the reason for upgrading.
No matter what happens in the future, having the best foundation possible (grounding, dedicated lines, Puritan 156, network components) will insure top performance from front end components.

 

[mgsu]

My system honestly consists of so few components that having the highest quality components within my price limitations was the reason for upgrading.
No matter what happens in the future, having the best foundation possible (grounding, dedicated lines, Puritan 156, network components) will insure top performance from front end components.

Clean power, meaning power conditioning and good ethernet is a good foundation for a good system. This is also the way i have built my system. Even summit-fi components benefit from a clean ethernet and power.

 

[mgsu]

Thank you. I'll give it a go.

As next, try a purple SR fuse and call it a day. Now you have a DAC that can rival 6-8k DACs

Edit: also unscrew the bluetooth antenna and get rid of it because it can induce RF. Isolate the antenna connector on the back of the unit with Alubutyl tape