Grado Recable Questions
Jul 7, 2011 at 7:49 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 4

Teal

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The cord on my SR-80 is just about done after 2 years of use and I'm looking for a DIY replacement. I've read some threads on recableing and have some questions.
 
What's the cheapest option for a durable cable? I have my eyes set on this one Mogami cable http://www.takefiveaudio.com/mall/shopexd.asp?id=329 and this Neutrik plug http://www.takefiveaudio.com/mall/shopexd.asp?id=836
 
Do I need a sleeve or can I use shrinktube to cover the whole assembly? What size of shrinktube do I need? (looking at getting these ones http://www.takefiveaudio.com/mall/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=111&cat=CPX+100 ) I'm pretty sure I need two sizes, one for the fat part and one after the Y split.
 
 
Also, I've seen one recable where someone installed miniplug connectors into the cups (lost the link to the thread). I was thinking of doing the same with RCA connectors (and reusing the wires already soldered to the cup, so I wouldn't have to desolder them) and using a 2 RCA to miniplug cable. Any thoughts on this? I like the idea of swapping cables easily, since I like using a longer cable at the desktop and a shorter one for portable use. I'm just not sure if I will run into problems.
 
Jul 12, 2011 at 10:51 AM Post #2 of 4
I'd go with thinner than 2534 - it's quite thick and heavy for headphones, and won't really fit into a Neutrik NYS231 without some drilling (or getting the L version), the 2893 is thinner and a better choice for headphones.  I would avoid sleeving the cable (personal preference unless I'm using bare wires), but I'd put heatshrink after the Y-split, 1/16 should be thick enough.
 
I've seen RCAs added to headphone cups, but those were larger wood headphones, not small Grados, on which it might look funky.  What about 3.5mm mono jacks?
 
Jul 12, 2011 at 7:01 PM Post #3 of 4
Good luck with 1/16" I've gravitated towards 3/32" as 1/16" was just too tight (for 2893). I usually set my twisted pair after the split with a heatgun and only when i heat them till the melting point does it become thin enough to use 1/16". Most of the time I would have to use a bit of fishing line/thin wire to pull the twsited pair through the shrink. I got tired of that and went one size up, 3/32". much, much easier.

Brendan
 
Jul 15, 2011 at 9:00 AM Post #4 of 4
I`m in the same process here.
Recabling both my SR-60 and SR-225.
(Installing wood cups on both at the same time).
 
I got Canare L-4e5c (I believe), Neutrik 1/4" jacks and techflex nylon multifilament sleeving.
 
Only thing I need to figure out, is wich is + and - on the driver :)
 
-n
 

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