[indydieselnut]

As I was going back and forth last night between the GS1000i and the 325is a question formed in my mind - has anyone come up with a really slick looking/functioning "post clamp" for Grado headphones? What I have in my mind is something that would go above the mounting block, would have some kind of grippy rubber lining, and would close around the post (maybe with a screw closure for security). This way the posts would remember your perfect setting everytime.

Has a DIY'er come up with this yet? Are they commercially available?

Thanks!

 

[jjmouse]

lol..use search function,there are lots of info for u.

personally i do think they are completely 2 series of product..

 

[indydieselnut]

jjmouse...I did search and found plenty of Grado mods but I didn't see anything like I'm talking about. Do you know of any? Can you point me in the right direction...maybe a thread link?

Also, it might be that the coffee hasn't kicked in but I'm totally confused by your second statement...

 

[BushGuy]

The only cure that has made sense to me was the way Joe Grado did it (albeit with expensive machined screws on his HP1000 series). Larry (Headphile) has done the same thing with screws of a lessor cost........but, hasn't bothered listing the mod on his current pages - so ask. He only used to do it in conjunction with other mods........you can see it in his pics of some of the Grado's he has done. You could do it yourself - but it's a pain in the neck, and what will you do if something goes awry.

 

[Ice Nine]

I have numerous Headphiled Grados/Alessandros and Larry's rod locks work very well. You could always have him recable a pair and add the rod locks.

 

[Rav]

Try searching for 'rod locks', basically grub screws drilled into the blocks putting tension on the rod. If you want to be a bit more slick, you could tap the hole to ensure that it has a decent thread, and put a small piece of rubber inside to prevent scratches on the rod itself.

Disadvantage is that the plastic block might not like being over-tightened, but at the minimal tension you'd need to put on it, i doubt you'd have problems. Also, iirc the blocks themselves have and O ring (maybe two) inside them, which is there to put friction on the rod, so make sure that you don't drill into them...

 

[tenzip]

I made some rod height locks out of .250" stainless shaft. I cut off a piece about .250" long, drilled a hole just larger than .125" for the rod off center of the shaft, then drilled/tapped a hole for a 4/40 Allen set or grub screw perpendicularly into the rod hole through the thickest part. These ride just above the plastic block, and keep the rod from coming down too far.

I find that I don't have trouble with them slipping up, so when I put them on, I just pull gently down on the cups to be sure the stops are resting on the plastic block. They're free to turn this way, which I see as preferable to locking them with a screw in the plastic block.

I thought about putting something under the tip of the set screw to keep it from marring the rod, but the fact that you use an .050" wrench in a 4/40 screw prevents much torque being applied, and I was just gentle with it. I didn't see any damage when I took them off to fiddle with something, but I may revisit this and put a piece of plastic or something under the set screw just because I can.

If you do decide to put a screw into the plastic, I would suggest a small diameter socket head cap screw. These generally have ridges on the outer circumference of the head, which will allow adjustment without a wrench, while also preventing you from applying too much torque and stripping the plastic threads. Maybe a #6 or #8. I basically dislike tapping thermoset plastic, it takes threads poorly IME.

 

[yukihiro]

I'm not sure where the thread is, but I did what someone else posted. Putting in 1/8" shaft collars along with some rubber washers/grommet things.

 

[indydieselnut]

Thanks everyone! This really proves that, although people like to say "use the search function!", sometimes not knowing the terminology you should use in the search can be a liability.

Tenzip's solution is really close to what I had in mind. As a cellist, I have the same dilemma with the endpin (a steel rod that needs to be height-adjustable but also totally secure when set). A further revision of Tenzip's solution, if we really want to get silly about it, is an inner and outer collar with a set-screw. The outer collar is tapped and the inner collar just has a detent so that it lines up with the set screw. When tightened, the length of the inner collar applies tention to the rod evenly, without marring the rod surface.

The thing I like about Tenzip's solution versus threading the block is the idea that the cups still twist freely. I often set my Grados down with the cups rotated so that the earpads are flat on the surface.

Okay, so it appears that the spot for the most overbuilt rod clamps award is still open

If I actually build my idea I'll let everyone know!

 

[Rhinosaur]

I read the thread I think yukihiro is talking about a while ago too. Haven't tried it myself, but it might be worth looking into.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/nos...o-ring-266965/

 

[indydieselnut]

I just ordered some sets of those Dubro collars. I still don't love the idea of the set screw possibly marring the post, but I wanted to have them in the toolbox in case I never come up with anything better

 

[coco]

This is from the Grado Mods thread, pretty slick. http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/pos...ml#post5675320

 

[tenzip]

Quote:

Originally Posted by coco /img/forum/go_quote.gif This is from the Grado Mods thread, pretty slick. http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/pos...ml#post5675320

Yep, those are pretty.

 

[tenzip]

Quote:

Originally Posted by indydieselnut /img/forum/go_quote.gif A further revision of Tenzip's solution, if we really want to get silly about it, is an inner and outer collar with a set-screw. The outer collar is tapped and the inner collar just has a detent so that it lines up with the set screw. When tightened, the length of the inner collar applies tention to the rod evenly, without marring the rod surface.

Where I used to work, we had pneumatic cylinders in an endurance testing rig, and had adjustable actuators on the shaft, secured by set screws. To keep from marring the shaft, we used little copper slugs under the end of the set screw. I believe that a piece of plastic would work for our purposes, as we're not trying to set it up for 10k high-speed operations without coming loose. (We used pretty big T-handle wrenches, and tightened them 'til they squeaked.)

I like the idea of the sleeve within a collar, but I'm unsure how it would work to keep it in place. I may stop at the hardware store tonight to see what's what. I have a couple of ideas. The configuration I have in mind would also stop the cup from rotating 360 degrees, which would be a plus, in my book. You'd probably be able to get 300+ degrees, so you could lay them flat, and pick them up and put them on without adjustment. Stainless, of course. Nobody wants rusty Grados.

Any interest in these, Grado people? I'll post some pics later of what I have now, (kinda rough, I'm an IT guy, not a toolmaker) and if I can get a prototype thrown together, of what I have in mind. Once I have a rough prototype, I could get our machining department turn out a batch for me.

Cost would probably be a couple of bucks for materials+whatever a first class stamp is now to US addresses. I'm not looking to make money, but I don't want to be out of pocket, either. Mods, if this is inappropriate for whatever reason, please let me know.

 

[achristilaw]

You won't mark the surface of the rod if the screw material was brass or aluminum.