Grado C-bracket+headband mod brainstorm.

[UtzY]

Make sure that you'll not make big holes in these.. later you can use this tool

 

[MONVMENTVM]

Quote:

Originally Posted by UtzY /img/forum/go_quote.gif Or maybe you can cut down these "pins" (blue), then make a hole in their place and put removable ones?

From what I know they _are_ removeable! You just have to pull them out.

 

[erd]

Yup, they are removable... but only from 1 direction... it comes off inwards towards the ear cup. So, you need to remove the cup first.

And yes, using a removable screw like the one on RS1 metal ring is definitely a good and easy mod. A bolt can be used to hold the screw in place.

I believe the metal ring has a plastic cap glued over the screw to protect it from being removed (I think, I'm not sure, someone can probably confirm).

Does the RS1 metal ring fits RS2 and other cups at all?

 

[UtzY]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MONVMENTVM /img/forum/go_quote.gif From what I know they _are_ removeable! You just have to pull them out.

After this thread I thought that Grado changed them... :| (and I've never seen a Grado headphone in person beside rs1

)

well then.. it should't be a big problem...just use the tool

 

[Rav]

Quote:

Originally Posted by erd /img/forum/go_quote.gif Does the RS1 metal ring fits RS2 and other cups at all?

In theory it might, but the cable would get in the way of the bottom of the ring. On the RS1s, as they're deeper and made of one piece of wood instead of two bits of plastic/metal/wood the cable comes out of the cup much farther out from the pads.

 

[Mitchell.lax]

I thought of making some out of timber with small screws as pins to hold the headphone in place. Really not sure how they'd turn out though. You'd have to leave enough thread to fit completely into the timber and file the thread off at the bottom. (Which would look similar to the picture above).

 

[erd]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rav /img/forum/go_quote.gif In theory it might, but the cable would get in the way of the bottom of the ring. On the RS1s, as they're deeper and made of one piece of wood instead of two bits of plastic/metal/wood the cable comes out of the cup much farther out from the pads.

I see... my RS2 (buttonless) is made out of one piece of wood, but you're right that depth difference could be the problem.


Quote:

I thought of making some out of timber with small screws as pins to hold the headphone in place. Really not sure how they'd turn out though. You'd have to leave enough thread to fit completely into the timber and file the thread off at the bottom. (Which would look similar to the picture above).

I think that'll look great, more wood, less plastic = win

 

[kontai69]

Quote:

Originally Posted by erd /img/forum/go_quote.gif And yes, using a removable screw like the one on RS1 metal ring is definitely a good and easy mod. A bolt can be used to hold the screw in place. I believe the metal ring has a plastic cap glued over the screw to protect it from being removed Does the RS1 metal ring fits RS2 and other cups at all?

I currently own the RS2 and MS-Pro with plastic and metal yolks, respectively. I don't think a switch will work. The diameters of the cups are different, so the pivot pins will not be of the right length. Also, the pivot pin of the metal yoke seem to be tightly fitted (pressed in or screwed in, I don't know). I don't see how you can remove it without damaging (scratching) it. Also, there does not appear to be a cap glued over a screw. It appears all one piece and is made of metal.
Pic of my SR225, RS2, MS-Pro side-by-side...

 

[erd]

Thanks for the pic! This clears up my question completely.

 

[DoYouRight]

Sorry, but I dont understand why you would take it off in the first place and why it would be such a hassle? Ive never had an issue though the sliding rod is a huge PITA. Thanks for anyone who might help me understand whats goin on.

 

[LingLing1337]

Just throwing this out there, I would be on wood yokes like white on rice.

 

[erd]

Quote:

Sorry, but I dont understand why you would take it off in the first place and why it would be such a hassle? Ive never had an issue though the sliding rod is a huge PITA. Thanks for anyone who might help me understand whats goin on.

I took off the headband to clean off some dust on the wood. I do that from time to time. Unfortunately, this time, when I tried to put it back on, it broke as shown on the pic.

It's not a hassle, more like disappointment... cheap looking plastic on a pretty high-end headphones didn't bother me that much... until it broke...

Just knowing some yoke can break pretty easily, makes me want to replace it with something much better. At this point I'm not worry about how not to break the yoke, I'm more interested on how can I make a new one that:
1) durable
2) practical
3) looks good, or at least looks better
4) easy to make

I'm not a pro builder, so if I can make this, most people should be able to do the same. And have less plastic on their Grados.

 

[Rav]

Kontai, that's the prefect pic for this comparison.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kontai69 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Also, the pivot pin of the metal yoke seem to be tightly fitted (pressed in or screwed in, I don't know). I don't see how you can remove it without damaging (scratching) it. Also, there does not appear to be a cap glued over a screw. It appears all one piece and is made of metal.

On my RS1s, if i look very close on the inside of the ring, there seems to be a tiny bit of thread on the pin, which leads me to think that they screw in (but the part that reaches the wood is smooth. How you'd unscrew a bolt with a round end is another matter, i would imagine that Grado has a special tool.

 

[erd]

Well at least now we know why RS2 require a "C" yoke and can't use the same ring as the RS1. This info save me a lot of time

Also, anyone moded the plastic L & R block? Lots of poeple complain abut the rods keep sliding, mine isn't too bad, but now that I'm building a new yoke, I might as well look into a new mechanism to hold the headband as well. The most common mod I see for this is sticking a screw in the L&R block to hold the rod, but I also saw some Grados with custom made stuff as well.