[88Sound]

Quote:

[size=xx-small]Originally posted by pearle[/size] Woohoo! Just received my Gilmore today.

Congratulations! One of the best amps out there for those RS-1's IMO. After you've formed some opinions let us know what you think.

 

[Audio-Me]

Quote:

Originally posted by Possum The setup is using a high quality resistor between the normal input and output of any attenuator. The potentiometer is used as a variable resistor, connected between the usual attenuator output and ground. The signal path is through the single resistor, while the potentiometer is only varying the attenuator's output resistance to ground - just a voltage divider. I think the typical value of the series resistor is 1/10 the max value of the potentiometer. There are a couple of threads at diyaudio.com discussing this configuration and people's experiences with it.

This looks more appealing to me, more so than a stepped attenuator, can you use any resistors? Like Audio Note tantalums? =P

 

[Possum]

Quote:

Originally posted by Audio&Me This looks more appealing to me, more so than a stepped attenuator, can you use any resistors? Like Audio Note tantalums? =P

As far as I know, you can use anything you like for the signal coupling resistor. I'd still say a ladder-type stepped attenuator is better due to very close channel matching, better resistors all around rather than conductive carbon or plastic, and a constant input impedence. The input impedence of a shunt will vary, and may or may not cause problems.

Brett describes the major differences (some are his opinion) between different typical attenuator types in the following thread:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...der+attenuator

I'm not sure he's right about a ladder attenuator having two resistors in the signal path though. I always thought it was one as in the following diagram from Goldpoint for a mono attenuator:

http://www.goldpt.com/schm_ml.html

You can see how the ladder attenuator switches both the input resistor and ground resistor to maintain a constant input impedence. A shunt setup won't change the input resistor, so the input impedence will vary.

Here's a good page from Goldpoint showing some of the differences in attenator types:

http://www.goldpt.com/compare.html

And just for the heck of it, here's another link that might be useful to some people:

http://www.goldpt.com/diy.html

 

[goon-heaven]

Quote: "I hope it's not the reviewer's 1 head amp as people tend to get over excited about their 1st anything."

Hi folks, this is my review of my first head amp, the Gilmore Kit and and I'm so over excited! This Amp Rocks!

The amp has just had 10hours wunning, but I can no longer contain my gleee. I've started trawling through my collection, and currently playing some vintage Groundhogs "Thank Christ for the Bomb". The Gilmore conveys Tonys guitar singing over the driving rhythym like I've not heard in 30 years since I saw them live. The Gilmore has me foot tapping and head rocking like I've not done for too long. Thanks Kevin and Justin for getting me back in touch with the music.

Some minor niggles I would like see improved:
* Broken links on Headamp website
* Justin keeping me in the dark re intended shipping date.
* Some instructions - Ha! Though I woz able to figure without.
* Molex connectors - nasty! and out of place against nice phonos and Neutrik. They gave me some grief as a one channel DC woz all over the place which woz tracked down to a poor Molex contact on Vin. Justins response to my plea of help woz prompt - Thanks.
* Some better arrangement around C3 on the PS. I think to try the 5 cap decoupling of the PS OpAmps and decent output cap(probably located in the amp box) as used by BoyElroy.

I had bean thinking of some poor mans one rung ladder attenuation. but this shunt setup looks promising enough to try with the Alps.

My equipment is: ancient Marantz CD52 with Lclock XO (bought before their prices went thro the roof) -> Arcam BB50 dac -> X2.5 diy interconnects -> Gilmore Amp -> HD580.

 

[88Sound]

The Gilmore has now just passed 100 Hours break-in. I compared it with the Grace 901 just as before but now only used the Grado HP-2 phones. Source, Power Cords, Interconnect cables are Identical in every way, the Grace DAC is not being used.

The Gilmore is better now, that raggedness in comparison with the Grace is now almost gone, this amp is a phenominal value but I still every so slightly think the Grace is a little smoother and more refined and slightly prefer the Grace. With the Grace DAC the grace is even better in my setup probably due to the mediocre analog stage in the DV47A which is bypassed when using the Grace DAC.

LISTEN UP! I just installed that DACT-2 stepped attenuator in the Gilmore and am absolutely amazed at the difference.

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by BoyElroy
Insofar as differences bet. the Alps Blue and a high quality stepped attenuator, I believe you will hear an immediate difference in terms of greater--

1) bass and bass slam/punch
2) transparency, transparency, transparency
3) smoother and more extended high end response
4) wider and more solid soundstaging.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

BoyElroy, all I can say to you is...All of the Above! The Gilmore has now passed the Grace as the best solid state headphone amp I have ever heard. The raggedness is completely gone, the transparency is incredible, and IMO sounds better than the Grace even with the Grace DAC engaged.

A few other points.... before the DACT-2 was installed I did a little test....I was using Virtual Dynamics Cryro Power Cord 3's on both units, and since the Grace was consistently winning these comparisons I changed the power cord on the Grace with the supplied one. Now the Grace became ragged, I just coudn't believe the difference with this either, the Gilmore/Alps/VD3 win this test easily.

Gilmore kit, plus DACT-2, plus DACT Stainless steel knob and connecting wires all ran about $ 550 and at my pace about 24 hours of work.....all fun work though! The outcome was incredible better than I could have hoped.

 

[kelly]

88Sound
We had a Dallas meet this weekend where I got to compare a Max with Stepped Attenuator to a Max with Noble pot. I was shocked that there was as much difference as there was.

 

[steinie]

Quote:

Originally posted by 88Sound LISTEN UP! I just installed that DACT-2 stepped attenuator in the Gilmore and am absolutely amazed at the difference. <snip> Gilmore kit, plus DACT-2, plus DACT Stainless steel knob and connecting wires all ran about $ 550 and at my pace about 24 hours of work.....all fun work though! The outcome was incredible better than I could have hoped.

88sound:
What ohm DACT did you use? I emailed Antness the other day and he said a 50K ohm would work well in this unit, also a 10K ohm would work also.....

What does having a different ohm attenuator in there do? Do any of you electronic wizards know?

Thanx for the update.

 

[88Sound]

I used a DACT CT2-100K Stereo Attenuator. With the Alps when off has the volume control pointing straight down 9:00 o'clock gets pretty loud with the HP-2's. With the DACT it's about 10:30 - 11:00 o'clock, which is exactly what I was looking for, more steps to full volume.

 

[Blighty]

Quote:

Originally posted by 88Sound I used a DACT CT2-100K Stereo Attenuator. With the Alps when off has the volume control pointing straight down 9:00 o'clock gets pretty loud with the HP-2's. With the DACT it's about 10:30 - 11:00 o'clock, which is exactly what I was looking for, more steps to full volume.

The Gilmore sounds very tempting especially with a DACT CT2. I wonder if the 50k version will be quieter? Do you feel it worthwhile to further improve its performance through better parts or do you think it has reached its design limitations as it stands now?

If you can send me some pictures, I will host them for you.

Thanks.

 

[BoyElroy]

Hi 88Sound,

I was also pretty amazed at the improvement in sound quality the first time I replaced my Alps pot with a stepped attenuator. Its unfortunate that they cost so much.


Hi Blighty,

I actually prefer the sound of the 100K attenuator with the Gilmore. The 50K, in my opinion, tends to emphasize my Grado 325's high end ever so slightly compared to the 100K. Maybe on a pair of less lively cans the 50K would work better, but for me, the 100K value sounds the best.

 

[Blighty]

Notice the DACT CT2 in the last picture:

 

[88Sound]

Thanks for posting those pics Blighty!

 

[goon-heaven]

88Sound
Thanks for the 100hr review - impressive and spurring me on the greater heights. Where to now - balanced bridged?

Antness
How is the BB upgrade kit coming on? You know, the piggyback board, a minor rerouting around the servo, a couple of mono headjacks and sockets, say $50 the lot!

My Gilmore has clocked 30hours, and the coldness on the female voice is giving way to her silky melancholy. But then this is my first headamp and I am being seduced with Kari Rueslattens lament on Death Hymn.