88Sound
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- Dec 14, 2001
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Gilmore Class A Kit Review
It’s been nearly 20 years since I’ve done a DIY project. My last DIY project was a Hafler 220 power amp and Hafler Pre-amp in 1983. If anyone remembers these kits they were supplied with finished and tested circuit boards and only required mounting them in the chassis and wiring the jacks with some minimal additional soldering.
In anticipation of the Gilmore arrival I picked up some new tools, a Panavise electronic work center (vise for holding circuit boards, soldering station, a neat little spring like thing for holding wires) heat sink, and desoldering tool (in the unlikely event any mistakes were made). These Items along with my trusty Weller soldering iron would give me the greatest chance at success with my upcoming project.
My kit arrived 5 days before the New Year and I was ready. This amplifier has a separate power supply making this like two separate projects. All the components were nicely packaged with everything I needed for assembly except tools, solder, and hook up wire. All the individual components were in their own nicely labeled plastic bags. These small bags were then placed in larger bags labeled for Power Supply, Amp, or Misc. A check off sheet with a listing of all the items in the kit is provided to make sure you aren’t missing anything. The biggest shock of all is that no instructions are provided for assembly, zero, zip, nada.
I was quite shocked at the missing instructions but after looking at the very nicely stenciled circuit boards and well labeled components I thought…maybe it’s self-explanatory. I am a meticulous trained monkey solder slinger who can follow directions perfectly but have no practical knowledge of circuit design. This coupled with a fool’s go where angels fear to tread attitude gave this project an air of DANGER.
Between posted pictures of a similar amp and the excellent labeling I was able to solder on all the components for both power supply and amp boards. After puzzling and puzzling until my puzzler was sore an e-mail cry went out to antness (the board designer). I was not about to attempt any hookup wiring without some instructions. Antness promptly responded with very detailed instructions on the power supply assembly with promises of amp assembly instructions to follow.
After a look at the power supply instructions I had done some things wrong! Two heat sinked components were in backwards, two capacitors had to have one leg each removed and a resistor inserted, and a jumper to select the voltage for the amplifier had to be installed. I thought that desoldering tool might come in handy! After making the changes I wired up the Power Supply, powered it up and voila’ the blue light came on!
Now it was off to the amplifier. I received an e-mailed diagram from antness for the wiring of the amplifier back panel. This was a good start but still left several decisions up to me, generally a bad idea in my case. I did not know exactly how the Alps Blue pot should be wired but fortunately had the same pot in a META42 to do a stare and compare. After completing the amp I powered it up with the power supply and another blue light! Success, or so I thought.
I hooked up a portable source and took my Grado 325’s and the sound was weak, distorted, and the left and right channels were blended. Thinking I may have reversed some wiring somewhere I went through everything and it all look perfect. More e-mail cries for help with immediate responses came back and through a series of exchanges the problem turned out to be in the power supply. Remember those reversed components…one of the points on the board had been damaged on the underside and the soldering needed to be done from the top. After this the amp now sounded great.
To make sure there were no other components damaged they were all checked for excess heat and measurements were taken across all the 25 Ohm resistors and the Vout DC voltage to ground. This last measurement is important because if it’s high it can damage your headphones. Every thing checked out perfectly and that last measurement was between .2 and .3 mV per channel. Success at Last! All wiring was dressed everything was buttoned up and the units look perfect inside and out.
The operation of the amp is flawless. Complete silence with the volume control at zero. With no source you can barely tell the amp is on only perceiving a slight noise floor at ¾ volume. If you were to play music into a Grado with this thing at ¾ you’d need a catchers mitt to catch the voice coil flying out of the headphone. The switches work perfectly allowing you to hook up two sources simultaneously and instantly switch between them. You can also switch the amp out from the headphone to a pair of RCA’s for use as a preamp.
IT TOOK THIS LONG TO GET TO THE SOUND!… Hey give me a break it’s DIY.
So far I’ve tried the Gilmore with three Grado phones, the 325, RS-1, and HP-2. The sound can be described as powerful, punchy, dynamic, exciting. Instrument separation and sound staging are excellent. The timbre of each instrument seems accurate also; nice tight bass with power to spare.
I have been asked how this compares with my solid state reference amp the Grace 901. First of all the Gilmore has been on a total of 12 hours and on for 9 hours playing music continuously before the test. The Grace and Gilmore are hooked up identically. Both are using Virtual Dynamics Power 3 Cryro cords with Outlaw interconnects out of a Pioneer DV47A that are all broken in. Until the Gilmore the Grace was the only amp I own that can supply all the current necessary for the Grado’s to sound their best. Without the proper current the bass starts to loosen up, among other nasties. The Gilmore is definitely in the category of an amp that can supply a lot of current and as such is an excellent choice for low impedance phones.
The Gilmore is a powerful amp and extremely fun to listen to, but the sound of the Grace is more refined and controlled. This is evident at the frequency extremes. The Gilmore is ever so slightly ragged by comparison, at the top a little raw, at the bottom very powerful but slightly less controlled (it still has nice tight bass but the Grace is tighter). Please remember these observations are only apparent by direct comparison to the Grace. The Grace is approximately three times more expensive than an assembled Gilmore and near four times the Gilmore Kit price.
So what do I really think after all this? The Gilmore was incredibly fun to build, I’m as proud as a new father is to have actually built something that sounds and looks this good. The cost of an assembled Gilmore is an excellent deal. The sub $400 price of a kit is an absolute steal. So far I have not encountered anything remotely near this price that sounds this good...go get one…now.
FINAL THOUGHTS
I’d like to thank Kevin Gilmore for sharing his gift of circuit design with everyone, this is an incredibly generous thing he’s doing and an incredible asset to this site and the DIY community.
I’d like to thank Justin Wilson (a.k.a. antness) for his excellent board design, very well organized kit, and being there when I needed him for help over and over again.
I’d like to thank Jude for maintaining this excellent site…. The quality, talent, humor, honesty, and generosity of the people that post to this site on a daily basis never ceases to amaze me.
It’s been nearly 20 years since I’ve done a DIY project. My last DIY project was a Hafler 220 power amp and Hafler Pre-amp in 1983. If anyone remembers these kits they were supplied with finished and tested circuit boards and only required mounting them in the chassis and wiring the jacks with some minimal additional soldering.
In anticipation of the Gilmore arrival I picked up some new tools, a Panavise electronic work center (vise for holding circuit boards, soldering station, a neat little spring like thing for holding wires) heat sink, and desoldering tool (in the unlikely event any mistakes were made). These Items along with my trusty Weller soldering iron would give me the greatest chance at success with my upcoming project.
My kit arrived 5 days before the New Year and I was ready. This amplifier has a separate power supply making this like two separate projects. All the components were nicely packaged with everything I needed for assembly except tools, solder, and hook up wire. All the individual components were in their own nicely labeled plastic bags. These small bags were then placed in larger bags labeled for Power Supply, Amp, or Misc. A check off sheet with a listing of all the items in the kit is provided to make sure you aren’t missing anything. The biggest shock of all is that no instructions are provided for assembly, zero, zip, nada.
I was quite shocked at the missing instructions but after looking at the very nicely stenciled circuit boards and well labeled components I thought…maybe it’s self-explanatory. I am a meticulous trained monkey solder slinger who can follow directions perfectly but have no practical knowledge of circuit design. This coupled with a fool’s go where angels fear to tread attitude gave this project an air of DANGER.
Between posted pictures of a similar amp and the excellent labeling I was able to solder on all the components for both power supply and amp boards. After puzzling and puzzling until my puzzler was sore an e-mail cry went out to antness (the board designer). I was not about to attempt any hookup wiring without some instructions. Antness promptly responded with very detailed instructions on the power supply assembly with promises of amp assembly instructions to follow.
After a look at the power supply instructions I had done some things wrong! Two heat sinked components were in backwards, two capacitors had to have one leg each removed and a resistor inserted, and a jumper to select the voltage for the amplifier had to be installed. I thought that desoldering tool might come in handy! After making the changes I wired up the Power Supply, powered it up and voila’ the blue light came on!
Now it was off to the amplifier. I received an e-mailed diagram from antness for the wiring of the amplifier back panel. This was a good start but still left several decisions up to me, generally a bad idea in my case. I did not know exactly how the Alps Blue pot should be wired but fortunately had the same pot in a META42 to do a stare and compare. After completing the amp I powered it up with the power supply and another blue light! Success, or so I thought.
I hooked up a portable source and took my Grado 325’s and the sound was weak, distorted, and the left and right channels were blended. Thinking I may have reversed some wiring somewhere I went through everything and it all look perfect. More e-mail cries for help with immediate responses came back and through a series of exchanges the problem turned out to be in the power supply. Remember those reversed components…one of the points on the board had been damaged on the underside and the soldering needed to be done from the top. After this the amp now sounded great.
To make sure there were no other components damaged they were all checked for excess heat and measurements were taken across all the 25 Ohm resistors and the Vout DC voltage to ground. This last measurement is important because if it’s high it can damage your headphones. Every thing checked out perfectly and that last measurement was between .2 and .3 mV per channel. Success at Last! All wiring was dressed everything was buttoned up and the units look perfect inside and out.
The operation of the amp is flawless. Complete silence with the volume control at zero. With no source you can barely tell the amp is on only perceiving a slight noise floor at ¾ volume. If you were to play music into a Grado with this thing at ¾ you’d need a catchers mitt to catch the voice coil flying out of the headphone. The switches work perfectly allowing you to hook up two sources simultaneously and instantly switch between them. You can also switch the amp out from the headphone to a pair of RCA’s for use as a preamp.
IT TOOK THIS LONG TO GET TO THE SOUND!… Hey give me a break it’s DIY.
So far I’ve tried the Gilmore with three Grado phones, the 325, RS-1, and HP-2. The sound can be described as powerful, punchy, dynamic, exciting. Instrument separation and sound staging are excellent. The timbre of each instrument seems accurate also; nice tight bass with power to spare.
I have been asked how this compares with my solid state reference amp the Grace 901. First of all the Gilmore has been on a total of 12 hours and on for 9 hours playing music continuously before the test. The Grace and Gilmore are hooked up identically. Both are using Virtual Dynamics Power 3 Cryro cords with Outlaw interconnects out of a Pioneer DV47A that are all broken in. Until the Gilmore the Grace was the only amp I own that can supply all the current necessary for the Grado’s to sound their best. Without the proper current the bass starts to loosen up, among other nasties. The Gilmore is definitely in the category of an amp that can supply a lot of current and as such is an excellent choice for low impedance phones.
The Gilmore is a powerful amp and extremely fun to listen to, but the sound of the Grace is more refined and controlled. This is evident at the frequency extremes. The Gilmore is ever so slightly ragged by comparison, at the top a little raw, at the bottom very powerful but slightly less controlled (it still has nice tight bass but the Grace is tighter). Please remember these observations are only apparent by direct comparison to the Grace. The Grace is approximately three times more expensive than an assembled Gilmore and near four times the Gilmore Kit price.
So what do I really think after all this? The Gilmore was incredibly fun to build, I’m as proud as a new father is to have actually built something that sounds and looks this good. The cost of an assembled Gilmore is an excellent deal. The sub $400 price of a kit is an absolute steal. So far I have not encountered anything remotely near this price that sounds this good...go get one…now.
FINAL THOUGHTS
I’d like to thank Kevin Gilmore for sharing his gift of circuit design with everyone, this is an incredibly generous thing he’s doing and an incredible asset to this site and the DIY community.
I’d like to thank Justin Wilson (a.k.a. antness) for his excellent board design, very well organized kit, and being there when I needed him for help over and over again.
I’d like to thank Jude for maintaining this excellent site…. The quality, talent, humor, honesty, and generosity of the people that post to this site on a daily basis never ceases to amaze me.