Omega
500+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Posts
- 520
- Likes
- 13
Finally caught the DIY bug, and will hopefully be starting on some Twisted Pear stuff in the next week or two. For many moons, I have spent my lunch breaks reading threads here, and at diyaudio (and yes, I've read the stickies). Still have some unanswered questions!
1. Internal wiring
Suggestions? good size (AWG)? Good supplier (in USA)? I'm aware that many use navships wire, and I might try this eventually, but I'm just looking for good quality copper for now. When wiring between components, any good rules to follow? I figure signal-bearing wires should be twisted pair, while fluctuating high-power lines should be isolated.
2. Best way to get power from the wall to my transformers?
Is it recommended to find an IEC switch (with fuse and modular plug)? Which particular connectors are recommended between power cable and case? Obviously, it is good to eliminate the risk of shock from touching live leads (ran across an XLR-like plug for this, but can't seem to find it again).
3. Why does everyone use toroidal transformers? Seems to me that EI and R-core transformers offer some real advantages w.r.t. 60 Hz noise, with the only disadvantages being maybe size, weight or (marginal) cost?
4. Could anyone please recommend a good solid SE headphone jack that isn't the Neutrik locking jack? (I don't like the look of it)
5. I recognize that casing is likely to be the biggest challenge...especially considering many components will already be assembled for me. Why don't more people buy aluminum flat and put together a case like this:
My Preamp using a Darwin and a Joshua Tree.. - Project Gallery - Twisted Pear Audio Support
Clearly, that guy (Max) has done an exceptional job, and also added flourishes like rounded corners, but it seems fairly simple to tie top/bottom/lside/rside/back together using the rectangular blocks at the corners. Local metal shop says that's about $50 worth of (pre-cut) aluminum, + FPE front panel = ~$100 for a fully customized, full-aluminum case? What am I missing, having never worked with aluminum (plenty of woodworking experience)? Seems a no-brainer versus the Galaxy cases, for example.
1. Internal wiring
Suggestions? good size (AWG)? Good supplier (in USA)? I'm aware that many use navships wire, and I might try this eventually, but I'm just looking for good quality copper for now. When wiring between components, any good rules to follow? I figure signal-bearing wires should be twisted pair, while fluctuating high-power lines should be isolated.
2. Best way to get power from the wall to my transformers?
Is it recommended to find an IEC switch (with fuse and modular plug)? Which particular connectors are recommended between power cable and case? Obviously, it is good to eliminate the risk of shock from touching live leads (ran across an XLR-like plug for this, but can't seem to find it again).
3. Why does everyone use toroidal transformers? Seems to me that EI and R-core transformers offer some real advantages w.r.t. 60 Hz noise, with the only disadvantages being maybe size, weight or (marginal) cost?
4. Could anyone please recommend a good solid SE headphone jack that isn't the Neutrik locking jack? (I don't like the look of it)
5. I recognize that casing is likely to be the biggest challenge...especially considering many components will already be assembled for me. Why don't more people buy aluminum flat and put together a case like this:
My Preamp using a Darwin and a Joshua Tree.. - Project Gallery - Twisted Pear Audio Support
Clearly, that guy (Max) has done an exceptional job, and also added flourishes like rounded corners, but it seems fairly simple to tie top/bottom/lside/rside/back together using the rectangular blocks at the corners. Local metal shop says that's about $50 worth of (pre-cut) aluminum, + FPE front panel = ~$100 for a fully customized, full-aluminum case? What am I missing, having never worked with aluminum (plenty of woodworking experience)? Seems a no-brainer versus the Galaxy cases, for example.