[AndrewFischer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fresno Bob /img/forum/go_quote.gif AndrewFischer would you mind posting your modified version of the wire pad library?

Attached.

>VALUE instead of >NAME on all pads.

The Smallest pads have 8mil silk width. The rest have 10mil width. I don't like using the scripts to change silk screen width.

 

[Joshatdot]

I am working on various PCB mounted 3.5mm jacks from Digi-Key.

Can someone test my work so far, give it a look-over to make sure it's ready?

3.5mm RIGHT ANGLE STEREO JACK
CUI, Inc. Part Number: SJ1-3533
Digi-Key Part Number: CP1-3533-ND

Library - http://www.cnw.com/~josh/Head-Fi/SJ1-3533.lbr
Data Sheet - http://www.cui.com/pdffiles/SJ1-3533.pdf

 

[Fresno Bob]

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndrewFischer /img/forum/go_quote.gif Attached. >VALUE instead of >NAME on all pads. The Smallest pads have 8mil silk width. The rest have 10mil width. I don't like using the scripts to change silk screen width.

Thank you.

 

[AndrewFischer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joshatdot /img/forum/go_quote.gif When designing your own Library Pakage, do you design the part like if you were looking at from the top or from bottom?

Eagle uses a top down view for both boards and libraries.

 

[AndrewFischer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joshatdot /img/forum/go_quote.gif I am working on various PCB mounted 3.5mm jacks from Digi-Key. Can someone test my work so far, give it a look-over to make sure it's ready? 3.5mm RIGHT ANGLE STEREO JACK CUI, Inc. Part Number: SJ1-3533 Digi-Key Part Number: CP1-3533-ND Library - http://www.cnw.com/~josh/Head-Fi/SJ1-3533.lbr Data Sheet - http://www.cui.com/pdffiles/SJ1-3533.pdf

Looks great for your first attempt. I did notice some potential problems.

Connections look good.
Schematic symbol looks very professional.

Double check your pad placement. I did a quick check and it looks a little off to me. You have left little room for error with a 1.6mm drill. Data sheet says tabs are 1.5mm wide +- .2mm. A tab couldbe 1.7mm wide and still in spec. If you ever use Olimex, the holes will be too small.


You have used the standard 5mil wide silk screen. I like to make my parts with 10mil wide silk screens. That way they will work at any Fab without having to use a script to widen the screen.

 

[Joshatdot]

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndrewFischer /img/forum/go_quote.gif Looks great for your first attempt. I did notice some potential problems. Connections look good. Schematic symbol looks very professional. Double check your pad placement. I did a quick check and it looks a little off to me. You have left little room for error with a 1.6mm drill. Data sheet says tabs are 1.5mm wide +- .2mm. A tab couldbe 1.7mm wide and still in spec. If you ever use Olimex, the holes will be too small. You have used the standard 5mil wide silk screen. I like to make my parts with 10mil wide silk screens. That way they will work at any Fab without having to use a script to widen the screen.

Yeah I been updating it constantly as I work with it. I also made some Vashay BC Metalized Film Caps. I been trying to make a CMoy with my parts and an edit version of Tangent's TLE2426. I might have to edit his ALPS pots too, the pins/pads look abit odd.

I'll upload my library files once I am happy with them.

 

[Joshatdot]

How do I delete/remove all the routes and redo them?

I moved a resistor around after I did the routing, and I need to fix it.

NM found it ripup;

 

[AndrewFischer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by colonelkernel8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hey question for you EAGLE masters out there, anyone know how to remove name text? I have a layout that I am working on that has the stuff too close together to have a name fit nicely. Or at least, can I custom place the part names?

My preferred way to do this is to use a modified library.

Delete >NAME from the library. Of course that will change every part that uses the modified library.

If you just need to move one or two names, use the SMASH command.

 

[Joshatdot]

When working with a top GND plane ploy, and you need to have a top trace. How do you make the clearance between the top traces and the GND plane wider? I think Eagle defaults to 8mill?

EDIT: I think I figured it out, when DRC checking, change clearance values there, and run RAT after wards.

 

[tangent]

Yup. DRC isn't just about checking the design rules, it's also for setting the ones EAGLE itself uses when generating geometry.

 

[DaKi][er]

The better way of changing it would be using the Change button and selecting Isolate then clicking on the polygon you want changed, especially if you got more than 1 plane and you want to have different spacing for whatever reason

Actually, get familiar with all the options under the Change button

 

[Pars]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaKi][er /img/forum/go_quote.gif The better way of changing it would be using the Change button and selecting Isolate then clicking on the polygon you want changed, especially if you got more than 1 plane and you want to have different spacing for whatever reason Actually, get familiar with all the options under the Change button

Nice tip, hadn't run across that one before!

What is the best way to generate top and bottom images for home etching? In the past I had always set the layers and done an Export to an Image (either a .bmp or a .png), but then always had to go in with a paint program and clean up the holes as Eagle draws the traces into them. Kinda time consuming.

 

[dBel84]

I find it easiest to merely print directly from eagle. Choose the specific plane from the view field option and print. Remember to mirror the top plane if you are using the transfer method ( that applies to the silk screen too )..dB

 

[DaKi][er]

Yes, directly printing is the best way to get images for etching, download CutePDF and you can setup a printer that will spit out a PDF file for you as well which can then be printed later on as well.

I'm yet to get a program that'll edit pdf files so I can put more layouts on the one page to print, in Eagle you can change the orientation of the printout to the top, center, bottom left and right so always do that and then print each one on the same sheet

 

[Joshatdot]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaKi][er /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yes, directly printing is the best way to get images for etching, download CutePDF and you can setup a printer that will spit out a PDF file for you as well which can then be printed later on as well. I'm yet to get a program that'll edit pdf files so I can put more layouts on the one page to print, in Eagle you can change the orientation of the printout to the top, center, bottom left and right so always do that and then print each one on the same sheet

I use Photoshop CS2, or Illustrator CS2.