[ghiglie]

Hmm...using a simple Philips screwdriver was all it took for me to take it apart/reassemble.  I believe you can loosen the side screws so that it takes the pressure off the plexiglass top so it comes off easily.  The metal cover is basically held in place by the screws on the back of the unit.  Not a single scratch to the screws themselves when I took it apart. 

Hi Adrian! That's what I did, but it seems the plexiglass is a bit too large to fit on the front side, or the U is not large enough, so I'll have to take off the side screws to put the cover apart.

 

[MikeyFresh]

  +1
 
Larry said it himself that the shield just clips onto the PCB.  There's no electrical grounding happening.

My Pulse SFi which was delivered in May 2015 does have the Mu-metal box shield over the clocks, and it is not soldered but clipped into place as others have described.
 
Those clips still could potentially make electrical contact with the board's ground plane I would imagine, depending on how their mounting holes were executed. Or maybe not.

 

[adrian0115]

Hi Adrian! That's what I did, but it seems the plexiglass is a bit too large to fit on the front side, or the U is not large enough, so I'll have to take off the side screws to put the cover apart.

Yea loosening the side screws makes it easier to take off the top cover.

 

[travelfotografe]

My Pulse X as a 2013 backer has no mu-shield installed too, just checked.
 
This Pulse X was originally DOA and had to be sent back for repair. So they didn't install one even though it was with the LHLabs twice.
 
And I got a Geek Out 450 that was fitted with ES9010K2M instead of the ES9018K2M, which was silently done for some batches and Larry only admitted and explained it was due to parts shortage when confronted with photographic evidence of Geek Outs fitted with ES9010K2M. Is this is a dictionary definition of bait-and-switch? 
 
I can only conclude this manufacturer cares nothing about quality, and worse, sell a product that claimed it have part A and knowingly installed part Z instead.

 

[foreverzer0]

  My Pulse X as a 2013 backer has no mu-shield installed too, just checked.
 
This Pulse X was originally DOA and had to be sent back for repair. So they didn't install one even though it was with the LHLabs twice.
 
And I got a Geek Out 450 that was fitted with ES9010K2M instead of the ES9018K2M, which was silently done for some batches and Larry only admitted and explained it was due to parts shortage when confronted with photographic evidence of Geek Outs fitted with ES9010K2M. Is this is a dictionary definition of bait-and-switch? 
 
I can only conclude this manufacturer cares nothing about quality, and worse, sell a product that claimed it have part A and knowingly installed part Z instead.

 
So shady, now it makes me want to open mine up. I just got my GOV2A back, I wonder if they even changed the internals of the analog side like they claimed.

 

[Panelhead]

I doubt we will see any missing my-metal shields. I would prefer a copper or brass. Then real grounding, soldered to backplane.
With the stamped steel chassis the clock circuitry should be magnetically shielded. RFI may be high inside.

 

[FayeForever]

My Pulse SFi which was delivered in May 2015 does have the Mu-metal box shield over the clocks, and it is not soldered but clipped into place as others have described.

Those clips still could potentially make electrical contact with the board's ground plane I would imagine, depending on how their mounting holes were executed. Or maybe not.

I think you are correct, now that I remember the mounting holes should connect to the ground plane that the clip touches.

 

[mscott58]

  Popped my cellphone camera on the kensington lock hole at the back (got me worried).
 
Pwew! There it is (Mu shield) at the bottom left! 
 

Same here, mu metal shield present and accounted for. In fact my iPhone photo looks very similar (which I guess should not be surprising), although your shield appears to be a lot more shiny. 
 
Note to anyone trying to do this on their Pulse, be sure to hold your iPhone camera right up against the "LOCK" hole, turn the phone's flash to off, and make sure the Pulse is plugged in and on, as the internal LED's are what provide the illumination you need to be able to get the photo.
 
Cheers 
 

 

[m-i-c-k-e-y]

I told the CS guyz to have it polished!

 

[wingsounds13]

I don't have an iPhone, can I use an Android to take the picture?

J.P.

 

[mscott58]

I don't have an iPhone, can I use an Android to take the picture?

J.P.

Yes, but you'll need a special adapter!

 

[m-i-c-k-e-y]

I used my Samsung Note 3 (Android) to take that pic of mine. Just place your phone's main camera on the key hole while your Pulse is turned on. Be sure the phone is flat with the case. My camera settings are Night Mode w/ no flash.

 

[Chrome Robot]

 
 
Looks like no mu metal on my Xfi. Initial order on 31 Oct 2013.
Not sure if there is any noticeable difference in sound quality, but, still, What ?!

 

[nudd]

 


 


Looks like no mu metal on my Xfi. Initial order on 31 Oct 2013.


Not sure if there is any noticeable difference in sound quality, but, still, What ?!

 


Depends on whether it needed shielding in the first place I guess. May be affected by how noisey the external environment is too ?

 

[Chrome Robot]

 


 


Looks like no mu metal on my Xfi. Initial order on 31 Oct 2013.


Not sure if there is any noticeable difference in sound quality, but, still, What ?!

 


Depends on whether it needed shielding in the first place I guess. May be affected by how noisey the external environment is too ?

True. My main point is that it should be there. Part of me thinks that i should hold them to their promises (although shipping back and forth is a hassle. Most of me says f#ckall, get a new DAC from a reliable and honest manufacturer.