Gamma-2 (γ2) DAC Thread
Sep 3, 2010 at 8:17 PM Post #1,966 of 2,154
Can you provide a picture of your gamma 1 as well?
 
As MisterX has pointed out, 91% alcohol will do wonders to remove the excess flux. Scrub and rinse with a nylon toothbrush works really well. Firm, yet gentle.
 
A number of your joints look "cold". Are you using an adjustable temp soldering iron? You might want to hold just a bit longer on the joint under solder to insure the flow adheres to the part (or the lead in this case). 
 
Do you have solder braid available? Putting some flux on U5 and sliding the braid against those pins to remove the excess solder will go along way. Again, be sure to clean it when finished.
 
Sep 3, 2010 at 9:26 PM Post #1,967 of 2,154


Quote:
Several of the U5 pins need more attention, R1 is unnecessary and it looks like you need to get busy with some flux remover.  


o is flux conductive? cause thats probably it, i have 91 proof iso but it doesnt do it, i need to find some legit flux remover
 
and yeah ill try getting in there and resoldering those.
 
and im almost 100% on the U2 i made sure on the ICs especially (like triple checked) before they went on, and i already checked the U5 vs the board picture on amb
 
does anything else look suspicious?
 
Sep 4, 2010 at 9:36 AM Post #1,968 of 2,154
I had 91% for a while but found 99% at a meijer
 
I read this in another thread.  Not sure how Tangent feels about being quoted, but this is the internets.
Quote:
tangent said:


Quote:

I just got in a pound of 63/37 kester .025" solder


Which type? 331 is conductive. As for the others, I'd only risk leaving type 245 flux on the board, as it's the no-clean type. The others can usually be left on the board, but sometimes this causes problems. If you carbonize the flux, it will be conductive. If you trap dirt in the flux, it can be conductive.

Even subtler, the flux changes the dielectric constant between two solder points, thus changing the parasitic capacitance. I've had boards where this problem caused oscillation, which went away when I cleaned the board.

Quote:

soaking the stuff you build in 99% isopropyl for about a half hour, then dab in between traces/components with a paintbrush (removing any remaining residue) and dry the board using a fan or something. I've heard this procedure recommended to clean off the flux & other surface contaminants.


If you're using professional PCBs and you fill most or all of the holes, you don't need the soaking. Instead, pour a bit of the alcohol into a small dish, dip a stiff-bristled brush into it and scrub the solder side of the board, while trying to prevent the sullied alcohol from getting on the component side of the board. Then use compressed air to blow the sullied alcohol off the board. Repeat until done. I use a stiff-bristled toothbrush for this, but if you're paranoid about static you should use a hogs-hair brush, which you can get from electronics supply places. Mouser has them, in the part of the catalog where the solder and such are.

With perfboard and PCBs with lots of unfilled holes, you usually end up contaminating the component side of the board: sullied alcohol gets through the holes, evaporates and leaves behind a thin layer of flux. Then what you need to do is drench the board and either scrub at it or soak it so most of the alcohol stays liquid while you blow it off. If there isn't enough alcohol, it evaporates instead of rolling off the board, leaving behind the flux. Even when you drench or soak the board, you'll need to repeat the cleaning except on the smallest boards.

Quote:

acetone will clean the flux residues


Yes, and it will also eat some plastics. Acetone is a heavy hammer best left unwielded most of the time.

Quote:

residu (spelling?)


Flux isn't a residue, it's "supposed" to be there. The unwanted white stuff left behind when you use impure alcohol is a residue.

Quote:

91% should be enough....


I tend to doubt that. Most of that 9% will be water, but a fraction of that fraction will be impurities. With 99% alcohol (which is usually 99.x% in fact, where x > 0) the fraction of a fraction is truly too small to worry about.

 
Sep 12, 2010 at 8:03 PM Post #1,977 of 2,154
I finally finished! turns out a nice cleaning and redoing some pins on U4 was all it took
 
only 1 pin was not connected (but i redid some suspect ones)
 
Yes! i'm super excited i finally finished this, and i leave for college on thursday, perfect timing
dt880smile.png

 
Sep 16, 2010 at 11:07 PM Post #1,978 of 2,154
i finished my gamma2 full configuration++ and i tested the y1 board first and its not working.my computer is not recognising it.i tried it on two computers,one running windows7 and the other vista.
i rechecked everything again and orientations....and its ok.
any help?
 
Sep 17, 2010 at 5:11 AM Post #1,979 of 2,154
Quote:
i finished my gamma2 full configuration++ and i tested the y1 board first and its not working.my computer is not recognising it.i tried it on two computers,one running windows7 and the other vista.
i rechecked everything again and orientations....and its ok.
any help?


Did you go through the initial check steps at the γ1 website?  If so did any step not pass?  What are your measured voltages?
 
Sep 17, 2010 at 5:28 AM Post #1,980 of 2,154
i just rechecked again.the JP2D pin 2 and the 4.5+ pin are reading zero with GND.the others are reading few ohms.
something that i dont understand,i shouldnt hard wire the y1 board right?
 

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