Gamma-2 (γ2) DAC Thread
Sep 22, 2009 at 8:49 AM Post #586 of 2,154
Just a warning for those who uses Mouser's project functionality... If you put y1 and y2 parts in separate projects, note that if they share components, like

Code:

Code:
[left]270-47K-RC 11 (MISSING 2)P47.0KCACT-ND 80-C320C104K5R 22 (MISSING 9)399-4264-ND 80-C315C103K5R 10 (MISSING 2)399-4148-ND 661-PSA10VB47M 5 (MISSING 2)565-3051-ND 647-UKW1H220MDD (MISSING 7) 604-1051-ND 579-MCP101-300DI/TO (MISSING 1)MCP101-315DI/TO-ND 595-TPS793475DBVR 2 (MISSING 1)LP2985AIM5-4.5CT-ND[/left]

those particular parts will not be additive when you add both projects to your shopping cart. In my case, I added y2, then y1, and ended up missing parts above for y2.

Now, what's the internal height on the Box Enclosure case? Will an RK27 fit in there?
 
Sep 22, 2009 at 9:11 AM Post #588 of 2,154
Here is the other datasheet---->

http://www.alps.com/products/WebObje...K271/RK271.PDF

a 27mm pot will not fit in a 26mm space.
wink.gif
 
Sep 22, 2009 at 9:25 AM Post #589 of 2,154
Quote:

Originally Posted by oneplustwo /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Anyone try using balanced output?


I really wish this had balanced outputs....what would be the easiest way to add these? I know it's tight on space...

Jeff
 
Sep 22, 2009 at 9:36 AM Post #590 of 2,154
Quote:

what would be the easiest way to add these?


Dual panel mount mini-jacks instead of RCA jacks?
Sounds kinda silly at first but mini to XLR adapters are pretty common.


And just in case anybody is wondering.... you can just pull the "pin" out of the 3 pin receptacles amb is offering in his shop and trim the extra plastic off with an X-acto knife, which I find is a little easier then breaking the strips from Mouser apart.
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Sep 22, 2009 at 9:49 AM Post #591 of 2,154
Quote:

Originally Posted by MisterX /img/forum/go_quote.gif
And just in case anybody is wondering.... you can just pull the "pin" out of the 3 pin receptacles amb is offering in his shop and trim the extra plastic off with an X-acto knife, which I find is a little easier then breaking the strips from Mouser apart.
smily_headphones1.gif



In case anyone is confused, MisterX is referring to modifying the 3P receptacle to make it 2P (for use as J3), needed when the matching γ1 is a Full (A), S/PDIF only (E) or Full++(F) configuration.
 
Sep 22, 2009 at 9:55 AM Post #592 of 2,154
Quote:

Originally Posted by fordgtlover /img/forum/go_quote.gif
So, to clarify, you don't want Y1 DAC output at all?

If that's so, you could leave out everything from R7D through to J3D and everything in the 'optional' area on the Y1 schematic, and
by the look of it U4D and U9D. And finally U6D and associated parts; the WM8501 appears to be the only thing using 4.5v.

This would leave you with only the Y1 inputs and the Y2 outputs.



You still need U4D because U2D (CS8416) needs it.
 
Sep 22, 2009 at 11:05 AM Post #594 of 2,154
I got my board and parts yesterday to upgrade my y1 to y2. Unfortunately, it's not working on my first go round. The first problem I can report is that I am getting 4.72v at both the 5v and the 4.5v test points. I do get 3.27v at the 3.3v point, which I believe is ok.

I have reflowed all the joints that looked in anyway dodgy. I am concerned that I fried the arsc, as I was a little careless when I first tried to solder it and I needed to desolder a few pins and start again. The dac chip went a bit smoother.

This is a full (not ++ and known working) y1 to upsampling (hopefully) y2.

Anything jump out from this?
 
Sep 22, 2009 at 1:17 PM Post #595 of 2,154
tacitapproval, if you're using USB power, it's possible that the computer's USB power voltage is a bit low. This is what you're measuring at the 5V test points. If you're using the TPS793475DBVR regulator for the 4.5 rail, then it has dropped out of regulation.

Have you tried simply to connect it and see if it makes music?
 
Sep 22, 2009 at 1:25 PM Post #596 of 2,154
Quote:

Originally Posted by amb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
tacitapproval, if you're using USB power, it's possible that the computer's USB power voltage is a bit low. This is what you're measuring at the 5V test points. If you're using the TPS793475DBVR regulator for the 4.5 rail, then it has dropped out of regulation.


This seems to be coming up as a common problem. Would you be inclined to recommend people use the 4.5V regulators rather than the 4.75V options if they can?
 
Sep 22, 2009 at 2:19 PM Post #597 of 2,154
I am using TPS793475DBVR. I am a little confused when you say it has dropped out of regulation. I thought it is supposed to to put out 4.75 (in this 4.72)v?

I measured my usb output, and it is indeed low at 4.80v.

No, no music, unfortunately.
 
Sep 22, 2009 at 3:26 PM Post #598 of 2,154
Quote:

Originally Posted by tacitapproval /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I am using TPS793475DBVR. I am a little confused when you say it has dropped out of regulation. I thought it is supposed to to put out 4.75 (in this 4.72)v?

I measured my usb output, and it is indeed low at 4.80v.

No, no music, unfortunately.



Mr 4.75v regulator cann't regulate with just 4.8v in. It needs 5v in to start regulating. Just like if you had a 12v regulator, it wont start regulating till you put 14v on it. What people are saying is swap out the 4.75v regulator for the 4.5v regulator. It will regulate at 4.8v in.

Pc usb voltages are 4.75-5.1v on average.
 
Sep 22, 2009 at 3:30 PM Post #599 of 2,154
also the pc usb voltage CAN vary if you have a somewhat long/thin usb cable. also if you are running off a usb hub that is not locally powered.

try using a direct motherboard connection and not a hub (for those that are seeing regulation issues). also try using a better cable (its only a matter of VERY cheap vs acceptable cables; nothing more than that).

a to-spec usb2.0 cable that is about 2' long seems to work fine for me. once I extend it or 'hub it' I see lower voltage, in general, from that usb port.

perhaps 4.5 is a good idea instead of 4.75.
 
Sep 22, 2009 at 3:33 PM Post #600 of 2,154
Quote:

Originally Posted by nightanole /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Mr 4.75v regulator cann't regulate with just 4.8v in. It needs 5v in to start regulating. Just like if you had a 12v regulator, it wont start regulating till you put 14v on it. What people are saying is swap out the 4.75v regulator for the 4.5v regulator. It will regulate at 4.8v in.

Pc usb voltages are 4.75-5.1v on average.



Indeed. I'm not 100% sure I am reading it right, but Mr Datasheet says your dropout voltage might be as high as 125mV at 200mA. So if your USB is less than 4.875 you might hit trouble.
 

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