MWSVette
Headphoneus Supremus
I like how the stock mahogany cups look but as soon as I opened the lid I was blown away...
I want a set of these...
I like how the stock mahogany cups look but as soon as I opened the lid I was blown away...
No easy decisions here. I think I'm gonna try the TH-X00 ph with Lawton Level 1 tune up on the drivers only as Fjrabon did, but using alpha pads instead of Lawton pads. Got to wait for the cans to arrive first though sadly. I'll post my impressions when I can, comparing the mods to stock. If anyone else has tried this combo I'd love to hear your thoughts.
also no problem with taking it slow as well. I took at least 5 months of near daily listening to it with the stock config before I started tinkering. I think it was important that I got a really strong sense of how I felt about all the aspects of its sounds, as was, before I made many changes. And it sounds great in its stock configuration as well. I was very happy with the sound, as was, given the price. I'm happier that with a few relatively simple and clean mods (no toilet paper under the pads mods) I could make it near, if not actual, flagship level FOR ME. However, the mods I liked might not be the same mods everybody likes. I tried my best to describe all details, so you could make the choice yourself, but even with that there's a lot of room for objectivity.
Where and how do you order these and how much do they cost? Are the cups directly interchangeable on the TH-X00?
If anyone's thinking of doing a removable cable mod without modifying the headphone, here's some info that I hope helps. I will just include pics for stuff that's not already in this thread. Thank you @PETEREK and the others in this thread for the help.
So, people said that you can do this mod "without modifying the headphone" if you use SMC connectors. I'll save you the confusion - yea, you don't modify the headphone, but you do modify the SMC connector.
Disassembly
These headphones are very easy to take apart. 4 screws hold the cup/driver to the frame, and 4 screws remove the cup from the driver. Just note that there is some glue holding the cables in place - it's easy enough to pull apart, just go slow.
The wires are well marked. Brown on both sides = ground, and pink/blue wires indicate L/R positive. The positive connection is marked on the driver contacts with a red marker.
Removing Stock Wires
I try to make this as simple as possible. A dab of solder on the soldering iron, I pull a bit on the existing wire, and just touch the iron to the solder already on the headphone. In about a second, the solder re-liquifies and you can pull the old wire out without removing the existing solder blob.
New SMC Connectors
There is very, very little space available between the headphone frame and the cup. You need SMC connector model 2963:
This is a tiny connector already, but you have cut it down even further to get it to fit. I was able to do this easily with my wire strippers. Here's what mine looked like after cutting:
Next, solder wires at 90-degree angles to the connector:
For soldering the wires to the driver, I reverse the procedure I mentioned above. I tin the wire, place it on top of the existing solder blob (with a little bit of downward force), and just touch the iron to the wire long enough to reflow the solder. the wire pops into the existing solder and we're done.
After confirming that the connections are correct (i.e. playing music), I finish the connector by adding a dab of hot glue around the connections, just for insurance.
When mounting the SMC connectors to the headphone, place the friction ring on the outside of the headphone, so they mount as low as possible.
When re-assembling the driver & cup, go slowly and don't over-tighten. You don't want to strip the wood or, god forbid, cause a crack.
Finished product:
Yeah I plan on giving stock plenty of listen before the tune-up, but thanks to my nearly clown sized ears I'm afraid I'll need some new pads right off the bat. My goal is ultimately to keep the thick and wet/fun sound of stock while adding a little tightness/refinement and soundstage. My impressions of the stock sound are based purely on other peoples' reviews. I think most can agree that if modding can mirror some of the refined and bloat-free qualities of the TH-900, while maintaining the tamed highs and slightly forward mids of the TH-X00, that would be a huge win/win.
I need help to realize the same mod. I tried to this these infamous SMC connector but could not find anything in Europe so I kept looking and I ended up finding these from Amphenol audio
http://www.digikey.ch/product-detail/fr/amphenol-rf-division/152127/ACX1510-ND/1989959
Can anyone confirm that they are the same and adequate for that mod ?
thanks a lot in advance !
Why does PETEREK use 2.5mm connectors on his standard X00 mod?
Why does PETEREK use 2.5mm connectors on his standard X00 mod?
Its customer choice. He'll do either 2.5 or SMC...
Probably requested by the owner
I use 2.5mm connectors by default, they work the best in that frame and they are the most reliable.
Thanks to all!
Actually I don't have any preference myself I just want to keep the mod as simple and risk less as possible and it is my understanding that going with low profile smc is the only way to avoid any modification on the headphone cups
I need help to realize the same mod. I tried to this these infamous SMC connector but could not find anything in Europe so I kept looking and I ended up finding these from Amphenol audio
http://www.digikey.ch/product-detail/fr/amphenol-rf-division/152127/ACX1510-ND/1989959
Can anyone confirm that they are the same and adequate for that mod ?
thanks a lot in advance !