[Middy]

Clear thick heat shrink not the think black stuff. at the jack.
8 mm long I reckon.

Something firm like a wood nail rubbed around the slot or fine emery/ sandpaper. 800 grit+. Check with a finger nail for raised points.

A small amount of Bath silicone allowed to set. But De burring stops cable damage....

Good luck

 

[Midgetguy]

  I've tinkered with six different Flare IEMs (three R2As and three R2Pros) by now and ime the R2Pros are more likely to suffer cable damage at the housing, since their cutout is chamfered and sharper than the R2A's.
 
However, my main concern would be the cable's other end, because imo the strain relief is too rigid and I'd absolutely advise against bending of the cable near the plug.

The shells of the R2Pro are sharper than the R2As? Huh, woulda though they'd be nearly the same since they're just supposed to be different materials, but maybe the different materials are why they're sharper. The Pros are titanium shells aren't they? As opposed to aluminum shells of the R2As? It's true though, the jack's strain relief is too rigid. I find it long enough and the taper is a good thing IMO, but it's quite stiff which negates the fact that it's long enough and tapered.

 

[Idsynchrono_24]

James is referring to the fact that the edge of the slit is chamfered on the Pro models. That can exert a cutting pressure on the cable near the slit. I haven't had any issues with my R2A, but I can definitely see how the plug would be the weak point on this phone. A right angle plug like the Tenore would've been much better overall.

 

[Midgetguy]

James is referring to the fact that the edge of the slit is chamfered on the Pro models. That can exert a cutting pressure on the cable near the slit. I haven't had any issues with my R2A, but I can definitely see how the plug would be the weak point on this phone. A right angle plug like the Tenore would've been much better overall.

Oh yeah, that part I get, but are the edges of the slit on the R2A not chamfered as well? Like I said, I thought the shape and manufacturing were the same in all aspects, but just the material changed. My R2A hasn't had any problems either, but I'm super careful with all my IEMs. Flare would've done better by using a right-angle jack considering how stiff the strain relief is. I prefer right-angle jacks over all anyway, but a straight jack can still be fine as long as it's designed fairly well. The Fidue A83 has a slightly better jack, still straight, but the relief is much softer to allow some flexibility. Then there's Trinity Audio Engineering's cable which uses a spring-loaded strain relief which I'm a fan of, both in function and aesthetics. Flare's done alright though for a first foray into portable audio.

 

[Middy]

I use to use my S5 and put them in my jeans pocket but it was causing stress on the jack. Can you buy 3.5mm to 3.5mm right angle adapters? That might work.

A small stone would work nice as a deburring tool for Stainless or titanium. (If there is sharp edges, that is) *^)

Asthetic wise the body looks like a first year apprentice machining practice piece.
I agree with another headphone review site( that's never mentioned here)

They sound as good as if not better than most beyond the price point.

Davies has done miracles. I hate the fact they haven't got the exposure media wise they deserve IMHO.

I hope this wasn't a side line from the pro speaker market and the start of bigger things (smaller)..

Niggles aside if they didn't sound so good, we wouldn't be discussing a first off starter product verbatim. I wish I got the pro's.
Rather than the 2bs.
I might fine lap the inner bore smooth
I am not brave enough yet.. I will ask prototyping at work have they got any fine diamond lapping paste to hone it..

I won't go on anymore on this thread.
My cheap memory foam MOD improved the sound detail to my old ears. back up the thread for details

If the lapping to smooth the bore works ill let you guys know.
Take care and have fun
Middy aka
Dave

 

[james444]

  The shells of the R2Pro are sharper than the R2As? Huh, woulda though they'd be nearly the same since they're just supposed to be different materials, but maybe the different materials are why they're sharper. The Pros are titanium shells aren't they? As opposed to aluminum shells of the R2As?

 
Here are pictures of both housings side by side. You can see that the Pro's cutouts are slightly larger and chamfered:
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/766183/flare-audio-r2pro-kickstarter-campaign/1905#post_11842307

 

[sodesuka]

Where the cut out in the shell is, for the cable. Use a finger nail and feel for a Burr. The nail will pluck if one is there. A little fine sandpaper,emery cloth and create a small chamfer an angle in the U shaped slot. This will stop any more damage on the cable...

If this is the case...

Good luck

Well, I'm not too worried since I don't plan on fiddling the caps anymore, and even in the case that the cables fail, I'll use that opportunity to replace it with custom cables by the local DIY'ers.

 

[Middy]

I forget I am a trained in soldering.

Mark up the polarity and strip back the sleeving and resolder back on the drivers.

OR little epoxy around the split.

Always price v effort required.. If it's needed.

I checked my R2s last night, no issues and sound like happy little Angels dancing away in there...

I did think about the tip base mod.
Shimming behind the O ring with little circles of plastic until you have the required sound. Pushing the stew cap backwards then just leave in place.
The tip mod is quite elegant..8^)

 

[Midgetguy]

   
Here are pictures of both housings side by side. You can see that the Pro's cutouts are slightly larger and chamfered:
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/766183/flare-audio-r2pro-kickstarter-campaign/1905#post_11842307

Ah, I see it. Yeah, I could see how that has the potential to cause more damage to the cable on the R2Pros compared to the R2As. Wonder why they went chamfered on the Pros.

 

[Middy]

Looks like a machined chamfer. Probably because titanium is so tough to debur by hand. If you mill the slot after the turning stage. You can remove the burrs on the thread by running a tap down the thread but that pushes crap back into the slot. The out side edge would be sharp after milling it. Probably a rose bit to get that shape..

That would be my guess, I haven't machined for over 10 years though..

 

[Idsynchrono_24]

The edge is likely chamfered so that it could increase traction on the cable so that it isn't susceptible to wiggling in and out of the slit. It'd probably be better if they went the ocharaku route which is to have a knot on the inside of the housing. Given the design of the R2 and the limited space inside, this was likely the best compromise they could achieve

 

[Midgetguy]

Looks like a machined chamfer. Probably because titanium is so tough to debur by hand. If you mill the slot after the turning stage. You can remove the burrs on the thread by running a tap down the thread but that pushes crap back into the slot. The out side edge would be sharp after milling it. Probably a rose bit to get that shape..

That would be my guess, I haven't machined for over 10 years though..

But you have machined so that definitely counts for something haha
 

The edge is likely chamfered so that it could increase traction on the cable so that it isn't susceptible to wiggling in and out of the slit. It'd probably be better if they went the ocharaku route which is to have a knot on the inside of the housing. Given the design of the R2 and the limited space inside, this was likely the best compromise they could achieve

A knot inside would likely affect the sound considering that putting a piece of a eartip affects that as well. So probably is just the best compromise sort of situation. I wouldn't be surprised that something had to be compromised along the design process considering the resulting unique driver and small shells.

 

[Middy]

You forget loads after a while. Was an Aerospace apprentice CNC Milling, turning, grinding jig boring deburring.
Pump and metering unit assembly and test,repairing, clean room work, conformance inspection. Had a break to try nursing and went into the electronics division helping set up production lines as a manufacturing engineer. I'd have to re train from scratch but you remember bits. I miss the hands on dirty work, more honest making things. Better sense of achievement than writing procedures and documents.

I am sure they said they sub out thier machining work locally at Flare

 

[woodcans]

Here is a variation of james444's mod for those of you (if you are like me) having a hard time getting a straight cut on the Klipsch stems. Instead of using the stem, cut the stem out and use a hole punch on the flange, creating a thin disc. This has finally given me the seal I have been trying for (for weeks). This IEM is a different beast with the proper seal. It has gone from sounding distant and somewhat lifeless to just fantastic. 
 
1. Using a sharp blade cut out stem:
 

 

 
2. Use hole punch on flange to make a thin disc. If your punch is dull like mine, you may have to do a little trim with a blade. Insert disc.
 

 
(Sorry for the poor focus, I'm too busy listening to take them apart for a re-shoot.
 
3. Carefully screw end cap back in. This is as tight as I could reasonably screw in the caps. Note the distance (and L/R mod for quick ID!) between the cap and housing is now slightly greater than stock.
 

 
Thanks to Idsynchrono_24 and james444!

 

[sodesuka]

Thanks for this. I had been thinking the same thing, using thin material to carve out the circles instead of trying to steady my hand cutting the klipsch tips (had several failures already), but I never thought of using the flange!
 
Now the two dozens klipsch tips I've bought from AE won't be wasted lol