makasin
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2006
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hey, so I have been using the E11 with L9 LOD to my ipod nano 6G and koss KSC35, ksc75 and it sounds great. Also sounds good with Grado SR225i and Apple IEMs, awaiting my TDK BA200s. However when I switch to my iphone 4s, I get some RF interference. I am wondering. Has anyone actually opened up the other side of the the E11 and inspected it? I know it's "better than a Mini3 but with mini3 parts but the DC-DC converter incurs some RF coupling into the audio path"
I was wondering if using aluminum foil surrounded in theelectrical tape would help the RF issue. I notice that the USB port has a metal pin exposed and goes to nothing. Ground? Could I solder a wire to it and the aluminum so the energy sinks to ground or is that a bad idea.
I was also thinking about using a ferrite bead (the ones that go around a cable like ones found in USB cables and stuff) at the end of the L9 LOD and at the jack of my ksc35s.
Would that help? I really want to open the other panel and poke around, possibly mod it and improve it. Any takers? Right now all I have is foil covered in elec tape on the battery panel and over the area where the pot and inputs are, but they aren't connected to anything so they dont really do anything. Im trying to find a place to connect them to. perhaps the USB floating pin:
Note: The pin is at the top leftish, above and left of the battery contacts
Anyone know what the best way to remove the non-battery panel and wonder if it shows any parts of the PCB?
2 mods could work well:
1) for virtual ground channel, use same opamp as the music channels? (or something that sinks twice as much power)
2) filter the DC-DC converter's output somehow.
I am an Electrical Engineer (getting diploma in 5 days so dont have too much time to waste on it ATM but will soon), so I know a bit out electronics and have a bunch of tools/parts at my disposal.
Off topic a bit:
I just got my Koss KSC35s (had several pairs of the 75s) and I really like them. They sound great. Do they ever exhibit the buzzing issues like the 75s or other "titanium" drivers where a crinkle happens as a result of a harmonic and makes bass create buzzing or a hair getting caught in there. Also, does Kramer modding/recabling these do anything much? My 75s are Kramered and I think it helped a good bit. I am looking to find some bare wire to recable several headphones and make interconnects, but am having trouble sourcing parts, if someone could PM me about the off topic discussion that would be grand. I'm basically looking for SPC, pure silver, pure oxygen free copper, preferably single conductor (if itll be flexible enough for the koss at 26guage)for everything for the most part. Also, Teflon or HDPE insulation for the conductors. Dont care too much about outer jacket. Would like to get it in either single wire spool so I can make my own entire shindig or 4xconductor pairs similar to the canare star quads. Just getting into sourcing parts for cables so I dont know wherethe best palces are. Since I work in the RF industry, I was kinda fascinated about using some flexible SMA cables for my Koss 75s to test it.
Anyways, back to original discussion, for those who have the E11, let's try to improve them to sound even better! Just like we did with the Asus Xonar ST/X (I have one, but havent modded it, gonna get the vanguard clock and maybe also linear regulated power supplies for the opamps/clock.
I was wondering if using aluminum foil surrounded in theelectrical tape would help the RF issue. I notice that the USB port has a metal pin exposed and goes to nothing. Ground? Could I solder a wire to it and the aluminum so the energy sinks to ground or is that a bad idea.
I was also thinking about using a ferrite bead (the ones that go around a cable like ones found in USB cables and stuff) at the end of the L9 LOD and at the jack of my ksc35s.
Would that help? I really want to open the other panel and poke around, possibly mod it and improve it. Any takers? Right now all I have is foil covered in elec tape on the battery panel and over the area where the pot and inputs are, but they aren't connected to anything so they dont really do anything. Im trying to find a place to connect them to. perhaps the USB floating pin:
Note: The pin is at the top leftish, above and left of the battery contacts
Anyone know what the best way to remove the non-battery panel and wonder if it shows any parts of the PCB?
2 mods could work well:
1) for virtual ground channel, use same opamp as the music channels? (or something that sinks twice as much power)
2) filter the DC-DC converter's output somehow.
I am an Electrical Engineer (getting diploma in 5 days so dont have too much time to waste on it ATM but will soon), so I know a bit out electronics and have a bunch of tools/parts at my disposal.
Off topic a bit:
I just got my Koss KSC35s (had several pairs of the 75s) and I really like them. They sound great. Do they ever exhibit the buzzing issues like the 75s or other "titanium" drivers where a crinkle happens as a result of a harmonic and makes bass create buzzing or a hair getting caught in there. Also, does Kramer modding/recabling these do anything much? My 75s are Kramered and I think it helped a good bit. I am looking to find some bare wire to recable several headphones and make interconnects, but am having trouble sourcing parts, if someone could PM me about the off topic discussion that would be grand. I'm basically looking for SPC, pure silver, pure oxygen free copper, preferably single conductor (if itll be flexible enough for the koss at 26guage)for everything for the most part. Also, Teflon or HDPE insulation for the conductors. Dont care too much about outer jacket. Would like to get it in either single wire spool so I can make my own entire shindig or 4xconductor pairs similar to the canare star quads. Just getting into sourcing parts for cables so I dont know wherethe best palces are. Since I work in the RF industry, I was kinda fascinated about using some flexible SMA cables for my Koss 75s to test it.
Anyways, back to original discussion, for those who have the E11, let's try to improve them to sound even better! Just like we did with the Asus Xonar ST/X (I have one, but havent modded it, gonna get the vanguard clock and maybe also linear regulated power supplies for the opamps/clock.