[bluenight]

I measured it a 12 midnight in a quiet room with a SPL meter I use to check the level of HPs. Placed it on top of Hypsos and the difference between off (room level) an ON was ca. 3.4 DB... 34.6 vs 38! So little that someone from Fe meant it's surprising that I hear that.
Still bothered me.
Wouldn't it be funny if those of you with same "issue" would have the same positive result also by just applying pressure on it's top and that humming is gone?
No power/transformer issue just the case vibrating... just saying (again)! wouldn't cost anything... no need to by power filter/DC blocker!

I Removed the Ifi DC blocker and was surprised mine Hypsos where still as quiet so maybe i don't need it in first place.

Also It sounds like the ifi dc blocker hamper the dynamics of Ferrum Hypsos/Oor. And makes it brighter, more sibilant and less natural sounding. Bass is deeper and more rhythmic without it and it sound warmer. Though it might sound cleaner and more articulate with it and tighter bass(maybe fake bright details? ). But i prefer without it right now.

The one i used on the Hypsos is only rated 4A continous and 7A Max. I have another that is rated 7A continuous and 10A max that i use direct on my Niagara 1000 powerstrip inlet and is only for Tv and apple Tv4k, i think it result in cleaner picture there. So there is different versions ones floating about on the market.

I know they have a new ifi DC blocker + rated 10 A continuous.

I would recommend the lower version Ampere versions at least only power Digital equipment that don't need the raw power. Dacs like Wandla might need that raw power from Hypsos though just like an amp. Although my hypsos show it only use 0.7 A on the display so 4A/7A would seem enough but maybe not in reality somehow.

I think i move my 4A/7A version to my powerstrip inlet that power my router and switch. And listen for what that might bring.

 

[krude]

I Removed the Ifi DC blocker and was surprised mine Hypsos where still as quiet so maybe i don't need it in first place.

Also It sounds like the ifi dc blocker hamper the dynamics of Ferrum Hypsos/Oor. And makes it brighter, more sibilant and less natural sounding. Bass is deeper and more rhythmic without it and it sound warmer. Though it might sound cleaner with it and tighter bass(maybe fake bright details). But i prefer without it.

The one i used on the Hypsos is only rated 4A continous and 7A Max. I have another that is rated 7A continuous and 10A max that i use direct on my Niagara 1000 powerstrip inlet and is only for Tv and apple Tv4k, i think it result in cleaner picture there. So there is different versions ones floating about on the market.

I know they have a new ifi DC blocker + rated 10 A continuous.

I would recommend the lower version Ampere versions at least only power Digital equipment that don't need the raw power. Dacs like Wandla might need that raw power from Hypsos though just like an amp. Although my hypsos show it only use 0.7 A on the display so 4A/7A would seem enough but maybe not in reality somehow.

I think i move my 4A/7A version to my powerstrip inlet that power my router and switch. And listen for what that might bring.

That is my experience with cheap conditioning, killing dynamics and making stuff sound harsh and artificial.

My Oor Hypsos also sounded the best without any conditioning when I owned it, but now that I tried more conditioners I think it couldve sounded good from Niagara 1200 or PS Quintet not to mention higher end stuff.

 

[bluenight]

That is my experience with cheap conditioning, killing dynamics and making stuff sound harsh and artificial.

My Oor Hypsos also sounded the best without any conditioning when I owned it, but now that I tried more conditioners I think it couldve sounded good from Niagara 1200 or PS Quintet not to mention higher end stuff.

I would be interested to see your opinions if you try Wandla without Hypsos. See if it really needs it. I wouldn't be surprised if it does regarding sound quality.

 

[OhmsClaw]

I would be interested to see your opinions if you try Wandla without Hypsos. See if it really needs it. I wouldn't be surprised if it does regarding sound quality.

Placebo. It's a logic level device with no dynamic "loading" presented to its high impedance outputs.

 

[bluenight]

Placebo. It's a logic level device with no dynamic "loading" presented to its high impedance outputs.

At least i have heard the output power of a Dac is important. Maybe the Hypsos can give it more faster transient power and cleaner power.

 

[krude]

Did you do a proper A/B or do you compare from memory?

I am not sure Hypsos can make such a big difference.

Ok, since at least 2 people wanted it and I have the brick as well as Hypsos I've spent the morning A/B ing.

Test track : The Cranberies - Zombie

Bass + Dynamics : Similar between both PSUs

Midrange :
Brick : Relatively decent space and clarity, better and more natural sounding than Gustard X26 Pro that I've had some time ago. Nowhere near the refinement and space of May. (both references to other DACs from memory, but I did spend considerable amount of time comparing both of those DACs b2b as well as Wanda b2b May so it's not completely from memory either)
Hypsos : considerable improvement in clarity, depth, relaxation and ease of tone. It's still not May level of midrange refinement but it's close IMO. It beats May on clarity though, so it's not flat out inferior ... but in general May wins with even more ease and refinement.

Treble :
Brick : Cheap, flat, horrible. Sounds like a typical cheap delta sigma DAC with no refinement, no space, and harsh, tone is terrible. It really kills everything Wandla had going for it in Midrange and Bass. Gustard X26 Pro had considerably cleaner and more refined treble even if it wasn't a lot more spacious, so this is seriously bad.
Hypsos : Total 180 of the treble performance. Clear, clean, very refined, very spacious. Miles better than Gustard and for me (I can see people with pitchforks at my doorstep lol) better than May which can be a little bit too dull in comparison. Wandla + Hypsos has 90% of the refinement but it's got more leading edge, more presence, and more freshness, resulting in a taller and more clearly defined stage. This is not massively better than May, of course, and it is subjective, but to me, at the very least it's not outclassed by May.

Conclusion :
Test track sounds like a cheap toy from the brick PSU compared to the Hypsos. The cymbals sound like a cheap synthesiser losing any sense of space, air authenticity, not to mention refinement. If the treble was better (it would have to be miles better tho) on the brick, maybe Hypsos wouldn't be that easy to justify, but if you have a system that has good treble extension and refinement, then Wandla with brick PSU will sound like and Hypsos is pretty much a must. And if you don't have a system like that, then there's no point in spending 2800 euro on Wandla anyway IMO, any other DAC will do the job just fine.

I would even go as far as saying that I'm surprised Ferrum offers Wandla without Hypsos, because the difference is incredible, going from trash, to really high class of refinement. I'm actually shocked at how rubbish the brick sounds, I didn't expect much from it but I was certain it would sound better than Gustard X26 Pro ... well ... it doesn't, Gustard in comparison to Wandla with brick sounds like a king of refinement ...

Obv system synergy etc. YMMV and those are just ramblings of one guy who probably spent too much on audio anyway

Update: for the sake of completeness I also tested the brick psu with power conditioning, it helped to clear the cluttered treble and harshness a bit, but not enough to make Wandla with brick perform better than the Gustard which is considerably less expensive.

 

[kajetanjazz]

@krude Have you tried changing fuses on the hypsos? I attempted some A/B testing though it was hard to put my finger on the exact changes. Sometimes I felt sound was off or too sharp and funny enough that was on the „better” fuse

 

[krude]

@krude Have you tried changing fuses on the hypsos? I attempted some A/B testing though it was hard to put my finger on the exact changes. Sometimes I felt sound was off or too sharp and funny enough that was on the „better” fuse

I bought the Purple Fuse once for one amp, I also thought it sounded worse than stock and I've managed to burn it soon after. I have a feeling fuses are not for me at the moment

 

[Francisco Evangelista]

@krude Have you tried changing fuses on the hypsos? I attempted some A/B testing though it was hard to put my finger on the exact changes. Sometimes I felt sound was off or too sharp and funny enough that was on the „better” fuse

I also use a purple fuse on the Hypsos and love it !

 

[kajetanjazz]

I bought the Purple Fuse once for one amp, I also thought it sounded worse than stock and I've managed to burn it soon after. I have a feeling fuses are not for me at the moment

The universe is telling you…

 

[kajetanjazz]

I also use a purple fuse on the Hypsos and love it !

Have you specifically AB’ed for changes? It’s hard to do with unplugging everything to take the hypsos out for fuse change. I’m sceptical of what difference the fuse makes in this case

 

[krude]

Have you specifically AB’ed for changes? It’s hard to do with unplugging everything to take the hypsos out for fuse change. I’m sceptical of what difference the fuse makes in this case

One thing I can say for certain is that I've tested Hypsos extensively with 3 inexpensive power conditioners (one having 3 levels) and it did influence the performance (of Oor in this case) quite a bit, ranging from warm and powerful straight from the wall to sharp, lean and brittle from the highest level of conditioning from Taga PC 5000.

So fuses might have similar effects maybe

 

[Francisco Evangelista]

I didn’t do a direct AB comparison, but it was clear to me the difference once I change for the new purple fuse…

I did get more in quantity and quality regarding bass , it was more textured and analog sound!

With time I did also notice the stage opening and getting more clear details but all in a more analog way.. this change was still with the TT2 as a DAC , after introducing the Wandla all came together perfectly!

 

[krude]

Have you specifically AB’ed for changes? It’s hard to do with unplugging everything to take the hypsos out for fuse change. I’m sceptical of what difference the fuse makes in this case

Also try flipping the fuse 180 and see if it changes anything.

 

[Francisco Evangelista]

Also try flipping the fuse 180 and see if it changes anything.

Yes I did also have this in mind , the wrong way it can sound worse