[kundica]

I want to help resolve the issue with the ARC input. What source are you trying to play through the Wandla. The DAC can reproduce the PCM soundtrack of video programming but not the bitstream (AC3) encoded version that is the default setting for most sources. You may need to go into the devices menu and select stereo (PCM) instead of Bitstream (AC3 or 5.1).

Thanks Roy.

Switching to PCM is the first thing I did. The C2 has the option to set the incoming audio on the other HDMI inputs to PCM as well, so I tried using a PC and a MacBook Pro after the internal apps didn't work. There is no issue taking PC or Mac sound through HDMI to the TV then using optical out of the TV to Wandla. I also tried a bunch of different cables in case they were being funny, but I can't get it working with this C2 at all. I still haven't tested our other TVs but I plan to try later today. My hope is that LG is doing something funny with the encoding rather than ARC not work at all on my DAC.

 

[meh0xff]

Thanks Roy.

Switching to PCM is the first thing I did. The C2 has the option to set the incoming audio on the other HDMI inputs to PCM as well, so I tried using a PC and a MacBook Pro after the internal apps didn't work. There is no issue taking PC or Mac sound through HDMI to the TV then using optical out of the TV to Wandla. I also tried a bunch of different cables in case they were being funny, but I can't get it working with this C2 at all. I still haven't tested our other TVs but I plan to try later today. My hope is that LG is doing something funny with the encoding rather than ARC not work at all on my DAC.

Hi @kundica

our R&D team has already got an info on your problem with Wandla and ARC. ARC was tested on TVs from several brands, among them was LG. We need to know more to be able to fix the problem. Can you open new ticket at:
https://ferrum.audio/support/
We will take care of the situation ASAP.

 

[kundica]

Hi @kundica

our R&D team has already got an info on your problem with Wandla and ARC. ARC was tested on TVs from several brands, among them was LG. We need to know more to be able to fix the problem. Can you open new ticket at:
https://ferrum.audio/support/
We will take care of the situation ASAP.

Thanks, I'll put in a ticket now.

I was able to test on all the TVs in my house(several LG OLEDs and a Sony A80J) and wasn't able to get it working. The only thing that seems to work through HDMI is CEC shutdown. CEC power on doesn't work.

EDIT: The support ticket interface doesn't list Wandla as an option so I'm going to add it as ERCO.

 

[Andrewteee]

Those of you who have the Wandla, Oor and Hypsos, are you stacking them together? I saw that in photos from the German audio show this past weekend. But when I stacked them in the following order the DAC and amp got really hot.

Oor on top of the Wandla on top of the Hypsos

I knew the Oor could run hot so I put it on top, but the DAC also seems to run hot. I currently have the Oor by itself and the Wandla on top of the Hypsos. They would look fantastic if they could be stacked. I know stacking audio gear is discouraged (and I never do it), but this being a beautiful compact headphone system I might be ok with it if it can be done without overheating any of the devices.

Perhaps at the audio show they were static units?

 

[GiBGUN]

Those of you who have the Wandla, Oor and Hypsos, are you stacking them together? I saw that in photos from the German audio show this past weekend. But when I stacked them in the following order the DAC and amp got really hot.

Oor on top of the Wandla on top of the Hypsos

I knew the Oor could run hot so I put it on top, but the DAC also seems to run hot. I currently have the Oor by itself and the Wandla on top of the Hypsos. They would look fantastic if they could be stacked. I know stacking audio gear is discouraged (and I never do it), but this being a beautiful compact headphone system I might be ok with it if it can be done without overheating any of the devices.

Perhaps at the audio show they were static units?

I asked a similar question to Ferrums support and this was what Wojtek said:

I personally don’t like to stack it (but I have to because of space limitations) because of heat dissipation reason. Our devices generate heat so I’d prefer them to be set side by side. If I have to stack it I’d set the device who controls volume on the bottom - this is the most convenient way for me. Looking on the heat problem I would put OOR on the top as the most heat generating device, then Wandla and Hypsos on the bottom. To be honest stack them the way it is most convenient for you.

Personally I’m going to move my desk around and stop stacking the devices

 

[George Hincapie]

I asked a similar question to Ferrums support and this was what Wojtek said:

I personally don’t like to stack it (but I have to because of space limitations) because of heat dissipation reason. Our devices generate heat so I’d prefer them to be set side by side. If I have to stack it I’d set the device who controls volume on the bottom - this is the most convenient way for me. Looking on the heat problem I would put OOR on the top as the most heat generating device, then Wandla and Hypsos on the bottom. To be honest stack them the way it is most convenient for you.

Personally I’m going to move my desk around and stop stacking the devices

Or get yourself on Etsy and have one of the craftsmen make you a beautiful, perfectly sized 3 tier rack in the wood of your choice which can sit on your desk.

 

[Andrewteee]

Or get yourself on Etsy and have one of the craftsmen make you a beautiful, perfectly sized 3 tier rack in the wood of your choice which can sit on your desk.

I've seen those, they are nice.

 

[GiBGUN]

Or get yourself on Etsy and have one of the craftsmen make you a beautiful, perfectly sized 3 tier rack in the wood of your choice which can sit on your desk.

Tempting! At the moment i'm liking being able to fit all 3 units under my display. A little horizontal rack would look awesome too.

 

[vernSL]

For those of you with a Hypsos, Oor, and Wandla... how do you connect the Wandla and Oor to the Hypsos? I have the splitter and enough cables but do I need to enable something on the Hypsos? Do I just set it to the Oor and then plug in both?

 

[Andrewteee]

For those of you with a Hypsos, Oor, and Wandla... how do you connect the Wandla and Oor to the Hypsos? I have the splitter and enough cables but do I need to enable something on the Hypsos? Do I just set it to the Oor and then plug in both?

I also use the splitter and it all just worked when I turned on the Hypsos (though you have to also turn on the Wandla). I did not think about this, the Hypsos should still be set to the Oor. I assume the Wandla is not in the Hypsos list yet.

 

[vernSL]

I also use the splitter and it all just worked when I turned on the Hypsos (though you have to also turn on the Wandla). I did not think about this, the Hypsos should still be set to the Oor. I assume the Wandla is not in the Hypsos list yet.

It does have the Wandla listed, which is one of the reasons I'm asking. I'll send them an email and see if I can get it clarified how it should be set up. Mine is working in either mode because the power delivery is the same between the two.

Also, I ended up bypassing the Wandla and am controlling my volume with the Oor. I wish it was the other way around but I was noticing crackling whenever I'd adjust the volume on the Wandla with my IEMs and even at 0 I could still hear music coming from them. Switching back to the Oor fixed both of those issues.

 

[Andrewteee]

It does have the Wandla listed, which is one of the reasons I'm asking. I'll send them an email and see if I can get it clarified how it should be set up. Mine is working in either mode because the power delivery is the same between the two.

Also, I ended up bypassing the Wandla and am controlling my volume with the Oor. I wish it was the other way around but I was noticing crackling whenever I'd adjust the volume on the Wandla with my IEMs and even at 0 I could still hear music coming from them. Switching back to the Oor fixed both of those issues.

Is your Hypsos new or did you update an older one?

 

[vernSL]

I updated the Hypsos when I got it a few weeks ago.

 

[GiBGUN]

It does have the Wandla listed, which is one of the reasons I'm asking. I'll send them an email and see if I can get it clarified how it should be set up. Mine is working in either mode because the power delivery is the same between the two.

Also, I ended up bypassing the Wandla and am controlling my volume with the Oor. I wish it was the other way around but I was noticing crackling whenever I'd adjust the volume on the Wandla with my IEMs and even at 0 I could still hear music coming from them. Switching back to the Oor fixed both of those issues.

I think both devices will have the same outcome given they share a voltage and there's no setting in the HYPSOS to let it know you're using a FPS. Still interested to hear what Ferrum say.

Were you using digital or analog volume control on the Wandla when you heard crackling?

I was surprised how high I had to turn the volume up on the Wandla (somewhere between 60-70, depending on convolvers, filters with gain reduction etc), whereas the same pair of headphones would barely need to go past 9 o'clock on mid gain (supposedly the same gain setting as bypass)

Here is what Ferrum said:

It is normal because OOR and Wandla has completely different volume control circuits. In OOR you have smaller range but with gain knob you can match it better to the headphones. Wandla has much more wider range so it seems you have to set it to hotter signal.

 

[kundica]

For those of you using Hypsos with Wandla and Oor at the same time, it's worth mention that the splitter disables the 4 Terminal sensing.