[kajetanjazz]

@GoldenSound Have you perhaps measured other output voltages than 4V? I’d ideally need 3V. I know 92 on volume wheel gives approx 4V, as well as bypass and -8db digital trim. Ferrum didn’t provide info besides that

I want to connect mass kobo amp to wandla for ultimate IEM stack, but 4V is still a bit much for it

 

[Lucus]

Because it's not true. It's a fuse mate, not a powerline filter with active or passive components. Spend money on a power conditioner or dedicated earthing solution if that's what your into, not a magical fuse.

Why is it not a "passive component" ? Current is flowing through the fuse, or ?

 

[OhmsClaw]

Why is it not a "passive component" ? Current is flowing through the fuse, or ?

Passive components are fixed filters which based on LCR (Inductance/Capaticance/Resistance) characteristics behave as designed i.e. choke/LP/HP/BP(Notch/Cut) and are frequency dependent.

Fuses are single use, overcurrent protection devices, designed to have the lowest Z in real impedance (R) for the rated current/sec. They are not filters. So you should invest in actual power conditioners if you are concerned about your 50/60hz street service.

 

[Mimetic]

So what's the story on the 'wait until after CanJam NYC' comment from Cameron? My dealer is getting new stock next week and I have a chance to reserve one but I'm a little hesitant now after reading that cryptic statement.

 

[ok computer]

So what's the story on the 'wait until after CanJam NYC' comment from Cameron? My dealer is getting new stock next week and I have a chance to reserve one but I'm a little hesitant now after reading that cryptic statement.

Golden has teased at a collab DAC with Ferrum. I would assume they are releasing more details/ launching at Canjam NYC.

 

[johnnym]

Golden has teased at a collab DAC with Ferrum. I would assume they are releasing more details/ launching at Canjam NYC.

Interesting: I missed that, I’ll see what happens in March

 

[wizzman121]

I finally picked up a Wandla and have been tinkering around with all the setting and controls it offers. It has really taken the Bliss to another level and also made it not just a viable but a preferrable pairing with the Tungsten with plenty of headroom. The Bliss would run out of headroom when fed my the Soekris 2541 and the sound was more constrained compared to the Wandla.

I have a few questions that I am hoping someone can provide some insight on. Wondering if @GoldenSound has tinkered with the Wandla enough to have some insight on this:

1.) What is the difference between the Volume (digital/analog) on the home screen versus the "digital input trim"?

2.) Does anyone know what voltage outputs are generated by the different digital input trim settings? This review says that -8dB creates the standard 2v/4v output that most DACs output while 0dB is the max is 4.75v/9.5v.

3.) Would it be better to max out the amp and use the Wandla's digital/anaalog colume control instead? Is there even a difference?

The digital input trim setting seems pretty critical to synergize with the amp you are connecting to. It impacts both the sound and the range of volume control. As an example with very little testing I have found the Bliss sounds best with the digital input trim at -4dB and the DAC volume at max.

 

[GoldenSound]

1.) What is the difference between the Volume (digital/analog) on the home screen versus the "digital input trim"?

Nothing, same process, just different options for convenience

2.) Does anyone know what voltage outputs are generated by the different digital input trim settings? This review says that -8dB creates the standard 2v/4v output that most DACs output while 0dB is the max is 4.75v/9.5v.

Vol setting 92 is 4V output on XLR.
Don't worry too much about trying to get exactly 4V though, all you need to worry about is that you're not clipping the input of your amp.
Most amps will be fine with 10V input. If not then reduce volume a bit, but there's no need to try to get exactly 4V

3.) Would it be better to max out the amp and use the Wandla's digital/anaalog colume control instead? Is there even a difference?

Depends on the amp. If you have a high quality preamp it'd likely be best to use that. If you're using a normal headphone amp then it depends on whether the dynamic range of the amp is higher than the WANDLA. Generally you want to do vol control with whatever component in your chain has the highest dynamic range.

I personally prefer the analog vol control over the digital vol control. As to whether the amp or wandla vol control is better, it's situational, I'd just try both and see which you prefer.

 

[kajetanjazz]

1.) What is the difference between the Volume (digital/analog) on the home screen versus the "digital input trim"?

Not sure if the digital volume and trim are any different. Both attenuate the signal in the digital domain when it enters the wandla. Analog volume attenuates at the end of the path after the conversion

Does anyone know what voltage outputs are generated by the different digital input trim settings?

I would like to know too, I asked this a few posts ago. Would be handy to also know settings for 3V. So far I know 92 on volume or bypass and -8db digital trim give 4V

 

[Menkau-ra]

Not sure if the digital volume and trim are any different. Both attenuate the signal in the digital domain when it enters the wandla. Analog volume attenuates at the end of the path after the conversion

Digital Input Trim should help with loud music clipping.

 

[Lakerfreak]

I finally picked up a Wandla and have been tinkering around with all the setting and controls it offers. It has really taken the Bliss to another level and also made it not just a viable but a preferrable pairing with the Tungsten with plenty of headroom. The Bliss would run out of headroom when fed my the Soekris 2541 and the sound was more constrained compared to the Wandla.

I have a few questions that I am hoping someone can provide some insight on. Wondering if @GoldenSound has tinkered with the Wandla enough to have some insight on this:

1.) What is the difference between the Volume (digital/analog) on the home screen versus the "digital input trim"?

2.) Does anyone know what voltage outputs are generated by the different digital input trim settings? This review says that -8dB creates the standard 2v/4v output that most DACs output while 0dB is the max is 4.75v/9.5v.

3.) Would it be better to max out the amp and use the Wandla's digital/anaalog colume control instead? Is there even a difference?

The digital input trim setting seems pretty critical to synergize with the amp you are connecting to. It impacts both the sound and the range of volume control. As an example with very little testing I have found the Bliss sounds best with the digital input trim at -4dB and the DAC volume at max.

i see you are stacking the wandla, oor and hypsos. do they heat up a lot when you stack them up? thanks

 

[akukula]

i see you are stacking the wandla, oor and hypsos. do they heat up a lot when you stack them up? thanks

I stack them all up. Last summer they do get noticeably warm but nothing too extreme. Now that its winter its barely warm to the touch even after a few hours of use

 

[krude]

Many weeks ago I mentioned I am planning to do Wandla + Hypsos vs my May Level 2 comparison.

Unfortunately, the distributor (Heiko Boss / Audition 6) I ordered from wasted 17 weeks of my life. Wasn't honest. Fulfilled Wandla orders made after mine (and with bigger discounts), and blamed Ferrum for delays. I ended up talking with Ferrum directly, and after it was clear that my unit was not ordered, and I was not treated honestly I requested my money back. Only then, as if by magic, the distributor (at 8 am) suddenly got the information that I will get my unit in 2-3 more weeks ... after waiting 17 weeks already! He couldn't obtain that information in the previous 2 weeks when I was still asking politely ... even though I could no problem.

To spice things up, I ordered on eBay, and I learned that eBays buyer protection ends 30 days after ordering! So if you think you're safe, think again. Ebay won't even give you a normal option to open a dispute after 30 days. I'm in IT so I knew how to dig out this functionality, but someone who is not tech savvy will not even know they can start a dispute after the button disappears from the panel!

Also, the situation where the seller magically got the info the very moment I started a dispute ... if I agreed to wait again, this would expire the dispute and you can't start another one! So I wouldn't even be able to pressurise him for a refund! This looks like a predatory tactic! People who are not tech savvy are lost with salesmen like this!

Anyway, this outlet sells gear at very competitive prices, and fulfills some orders, but also treats some clients like in my case. Which is even more weird because I was a returning customer. Last time I waited 8 weeks, but got the amp I wanted at a decent price in the end. One thing is for sure, I will not use this outlet again.

 

[Leto Dal]

Many weeks ago I mentioned I am planning to do Wandla + Hypsos vs my May Level 2 comparison.

Unfortunately, the distributor (Heiko Boss / Audition 6) I ordered from wasted 17 weeks of my life. Wasn't honest. Fulfilled Wandla orders made after mine (and with bigger discounts), and blamed Ferrum for delays. I ended up talking with Ferrum directly, and after it was clear that my unit was not ordered, and I was not treated honestly I requested my money back. Only then, as if by magic, the distributor (at 8 am in the morning) suddenly got the information that I will get my unit in 2-3 more weeks ... after waiting 17 weeks already! He couldn't obtain that information in the previous 2 weeks when I was still asking politely ... even though I could no problem.

To spice things up, I ordered on eBay, and I learned that eBay buyer protection ends 30 days after ordering! So if you think you're safe, think again. Ebay won't even give you a normal option to open a dispute after 30 days. I'm in IT so I knew how to dig out this functionality, but someone who is not tech savvy will not even know they can start a dispute after the button disappears from the panel!

Also the situation where the seller magically got the info the very moment I started a dispute ... if I agreed to wait again, this would expire the dispute and you can't start another one! So I wouldn't even be able to pressurise him for a refund! This looks like a predatory tactic! People who are not tech savvy are lost with salesmen like this!

Anyway, this outlet sells gear at very competitive prices, and fulfills some orders, but also treats some clients like in my case. Which is even more weird because I was a returning client. Last time I waited 8 weeks, but got the amp I wanted at a decent price in the end. One thing is for sure, I will not use this outlet again.

Apparently ferrum cant keep up with the demand. Germany distributor honestly reached out to a friend of mine stating that there is a large delay and no delivery date as for now.

 

[krude]

Apparently ferrum cant keep up with the demand. Germany distributor honestly reached out to a friend of mine stating that there is a large delay and no delivery date as for now.

They are fulfilling orders at the moment and fulfilled the order for my distributor 3 weeks ago. They did have a production slow down Dec Jan but that is now over.

Guys who waited 10-12 weeks got theit units, I was told 3 more weeks after 17 weeks of wait and only when putting a gun to the distributors head via an eBay dispute

Also ultimately I'm not complaining about the wait, but about the lack of honesty and unwillingness to provide any solid information and simply ignoring polite customers. Maybe I should've started threatening the guy early and I would get my unit instead of being polite and understanding.