[Shoewreck]

btw, I made a thin metallic mesh with 1 kopeck-sized piece of sticky tape in center. That lead to the sweetest tone I heard from my SR-80.

 

[limpidglitch]

from the aforementioned HeadWize article:

Removing the Transducers (SR-60)

Method 1 (Skippy): There are little bumps on the back of the earcup that serve as clips to hold the transducer in place. Sand the bumps down just enough to take out the driver, so that they can go back into position with a bit of force. If the bumps are sanded down too much, the driver will not stay in place when reinstalled. Beagle wrote that he glued them in place. When I installed the submini jack for the replaceable cable (see below), the jack pressed against the back of driver and holds it in place.

Note: the voice coil wires are fragile. Be careful when removing the transducer to avoid breaking a signal connection.

Method 2 (Beagle): Using a medium size screwdriver, going in from the back of the driver, insert the screwdriver along the edge between the driver and the plastic housing. Turn the screwdriver with a slow wiggling motion, gently attempting to "pry" the housing away from the driver. Do this every 1/4 inch or so. You should hear a cracking sound as the glue (probably superglue) lets go.

You may get the driver itself loose or the driver with the perforated cap still attached. If the cap is still attached, the driver should come out through the front of the plastic enclosure. If you have pried just the driver loose, you will either have to remove the plastic bumps on the enclosure and bring it though the back or try prying the driver cap from the enclosure. Use your judgment.

I tried Beagles method when I was modding my 225s, and did hear little cracking noises, but didn't have the nerve to carry it through.

 

[MONVMENTVM]

I just _had_ to do it today

.

I opened them and removed the transducer (which was _really_ a pain in the ***). The problem is, the grille is also glued... and it wont go off. I tried heating it and even inserting a screwdriver to bring it apart, but it won't. But I think that if it would go off, the transducers wouldn't stay in place anymore.

So the only possibility is to cut a hole as the OP did, which would be still easier with the transducers removed

.

 

[Shoewreck]

I tried the screwdriver method. Haven't tried sanding, though.
Probably the construction changed since those instructions were written. Most likely the drivers are glued in much better now.

 

[MONVMENTVM]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shoewreck /img/forum/go_quote.gif I tried the screwdriver method. Haven't tried sanding, though. Probably the construction changed since those instructions were written. Most likely the drivers are glued in much better now.

The screwdriver method works (just did it before) and yes, the driver is glued in there and makes the whole process PITA. Even if you try sanding these bumps you'll need a screwdriver. Therefore it's not really possible to avoid deforming the outer plastic ring of the transducer. This isn't a real problem though.

Hmm... I don't know if I really want to do this to my GS-1000 though

.

 

[QQQ]

I'd like to compare those to RS1, because they're so much better than stock 225 now...

 

[a19als]

Great, completely new look! but 325 cup cost??

 

[QQQ]

Yeah, they cost

But the problem is not cost, but difficulties in finding them. But, there're some good head-fiers around...

 

[a19als]

Quote:

Originally Posted by QQQ /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yeah, they cost But the problem is not cost, but difficulties in finding them. But, there're some good head-fiers around...

It may be one of a kind! very nice!

 

[MACDRU]

Great mod. Maybe I'll finally buy some grados to mod.

 

[Dr. Strangelove]

Wow look at that driver... looks a lot like the DH-32 that derekbmn referenced.

Nice work on the mod btw. Thinking of doing a similar procedure to my own cans.

 

[nickchen]

I obviously didn't see this thread when it came out, great piece of tinkering, QQQ, and I'm sure it sounds great.

2 thoughts:

I'd try the inner coating of the distancer with felt instead of foam. NoXter and my tests showed that foam has no sonic prosperties at all, so coating it with foam is propably close to no coating at all.

The mentioned removal of the systems before getting rid of the mesh is a good idea. There was also luck involved that you didn't destroy anything with your "hardcore" method IMO. I once had to get one of my MS1 systems out of its enclosure (grattle issue), and I did use the screwdriver method, that worked quite well.