Emotiva A-100
Jan 21, 2020 at 1:36 PM Post #662 of 759
Great, thanks for the insight on this. This was my worry with it.

I have the Elear and an A100. The volume is very loud right when the left and right channels balance out on the volume pot. It's about at the upper limit of what I normally listen to. Maybe slightly higher. I also have the Jot and I find the Jot and Elear go well together given the Elear's warm sound.

Btw that's with the full power mode. With the regular mode, it sounded like junk. Definitely not a good match for low impedance cans. Sounds great with my Auteur though.
H
 
May 7, 2020 at 2:45 AM Post #663 of 759
I grabbed one of these a couple of months back as a speaker/headphone amp combo that offers enough power to drive whatever headphones I may get my hands on. It's honestly exceeded my expectations with both my speakers (currently running JBL Studio 530s) and headphones. Even without the jumpers it added some more bass oomph and presence to my ATH-A900Xs which per the spec sheet don't seem too hard to drive (42 ohms, 100 db/mW), so perhaps the common bass-region impedance spike is higher than usual. Also does a great job pushing the DT 990s (250 ohm) and 1990s.

I'll also note that I've started it on my desk with some typical sources of EMI nearby and no appreciable noise is present. Wasn't a big concern but stranger things have happened.
 
Oct 12, 2020 at 8:37 PM Post #664 of 759
Anyone used their A100 with any of the ZMF dynamics? I have the ZMF Aeolus on the way to me and am eager to try it out with my A100. I have the jumpers installed currently for use with my Mod House Argons. I’m really interested to know if anyone has tried the Aeolus or any other ZMF dynamics with the A100 and whether they found them better with or without the jumpers installed.
 
Oct 12, 2020 at 10:24 PM Post #665 of 759
Anyone used their A100 with any of the ZMF dynamics? I have the ZMF Aeolus on the way to me and am eager to try it out with my A100. I have the jumpers installed currently for use with my Mod House Argons. I’m really interested to know if anyone has tried the Aeolus or any other ZMF dynamics with the A100 and whether they found them better with or without the jumpers installed.
It's better without the jumpers, I've used the Eikon with the A-100 whose high output impedance plays nicely the.
 
Oct 12, 2020 at 11:44 PM Post #666 of 759
@Mightygrey Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking the high output impedance might be the ticket with the 300ohm Aeolus. Lots of guys on the ZMF threads are using OTL tube amps with high output impedance, but I don’t have a tube amp so jumpers out on my A100 is as close as I can get at the moment. Thanks again.
 
Dec 4, 2020 at 11:45 PM Post #667 of 759
What a great value of an amp! I think this amp performs way above it's price. What can you get with this price, Schiit Magnius? This amp probably performs on the level of Schiit Rag, which I didn't think had that good of a performance (it was alright). Definately better than all Schiit products under Rag.

It was recommended by somebody to try out the DT800 and that person was right, it did add better bass, and transients are very fast and very snappy amp. Then I decided to try the HD800S, and I can recommend for HD800S. It's one of the rare few solid-states I've experience to work well with HD800S. Dynamics on this amp really good. I think it is better than Rag in driving the HD800S. Rag sucks at driving it.

I find it interesting that these amps are actually assembled in the USA, and priced lower that some Chinese amps.

If you are going to have one amp to drive many headphones including the HE6, this is it.
 
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Jan 16, 2021 at 8:58 PM Post #668 of 759
If you guys have Beyerdynamic DT-770 600 ohms version, this amp will make this headphone come alive. My pair was mainly collecting dust in the closet for many years due to it sounds anemic with many of other amps that I have tried. Computer desktop streaming Tidal > Emotiva DC-1 > BasX100 (with jumper placed) > DT-770 600 ohms. Both-600 ohms, DT-770 and DT-880 sound fantastic with this amp.
 
Feb 8, 2021 at 2:28 AM Post #669 of 759
I’m hoping some Basx A100 owners or reps can help guide me with a problem I’m having. It’s a unique case.. I’m using the A100 to power my Jecklin PS2 Electrostatic Energizer (the equivalent of a Stax SRD-7). I’d previously used a little Kinter Tripath amp that worked well, but upgraded to the A100. When connected to the PS2 I get audio but whenever I turn the volume up loud (about 12 o clock, which doesn’t really have much volume, I’d say just loud but listening levels), it goes into blinking-amber fault mode. Originally I was using bare ended speaker wire so thought it could be a short in the speaker cables, as per the manual. So I swapped over to brand new banana terminated cables and still have the issue.

I’ve checked the A100 and PS2 fuses and they’re all good. The 4.4 terminal jack produces good sound at loud volumes, so I think it’s entirely to do with how the A100 plays with the electrostatic energizer (about 800-900 cola, if I recall correctly, not 580 like Stax).

Two main questions:
1. If not a speaker cable short, any other ideas what may be kicking it into fault mode? At higher volume only?
2. Could using the jumpers help in any way, by giving the amp more power to handle the energizer?

Any other thoughts are appreciated, and there’s no Jecklin thread I can post this to, so you’re my best hope. My fear is that a cap is blown somewhere in the chain, but if so, I’m not sure why would it work at low volumes but fault at high.
 
Feb 8, 2021 at 10:19 AM Post #670 of 759
I’m hoping some Basx A100 owners or reps can help guide me with a problem I’m having. It’s a unique case.. I’m using the A100 to power my Jecklin PS2 Electrostatic Energizer (the equivalent of a Stax SRD-7). I’d previously used a little Kinter Tripath amp that worked well, but upgraded to the A100. When connected to the PS2 I get audio but whenever I turn the volume up loud (about 12 o clock, which doesn’t really have much volume, I’d say just loud but listening levels), it goes into blinking-amber fault mode. Originally I was using bare ended speaker wire so thought it could be a short in the speaker cables, as per the manual. So I swapped over to brand new banana terminated cables and still have the issue.

I’ve checked the A100 and PS2 fuses and they’re all good. The 4.4 terminal jack produces good sound at loud volumes, so I think it’s entirely to do with how the A100 plays with the electrostatic energizer (about 800-900 cola, if I recall correctly, not 580 like Stax).

Two main questions:
1. If not a speaker cable short, any other ideas what may be kicking it into fault mode? At higher volume only?
2. Could using the jumpers help in any way, by giving the amp more power to handle the energizer?

Any other thoughts are appreciated, and there’s no Jecklin thread I can post this to, so you’re my best hope. My fear is that a cap is blown somewhere in the chain, but if so, I’m not sure why would it work at low volumes but fault at high.
I can't help too much, but I can say the jumpers only affect the headphone out. They don't have any effect on the speaker output.
 
Mar 25, 2021 at 4:51 PM Post #674 of 759
It should be safe as long as you’re extremely careful with the volume knob. I put a little white sticker on mine to be able to easily see the volume position. I always turn it all the way down before playing anything through it and turn it up very slowly.
 

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