DX200/220 Amp8, MAX and other EX modifications
May 2, 2019 at 4:32 PM Post #46 of 473
As promised a bit of my experience. Well, firstly, the potential for improving amps is significantly limited and quite expensive. But the fact that mad craftsmen can significantly improve the sound of their ibasso devices is undeniable. Okey, let's go. So the capacitors were replaced in the power supply. It was 1000uF×2 6.3 v nichicon fw. It became 1500 uF×2 6.3 v organic electrolyte. And capacitors in the aisle. It was 22uF×4, became 47uF×4 16v (Elna silmic 2 or nichicon es nonpolar green)or 100uF×4 6.3 v nichicon fine gold. The power supply is considered you need to assign the capacity. Well, actually in the aisle will not interfere with 100uF, although 47 well. But I still might try 100uF silmic2. Soft absorber EMI I have not installed, expensive and nowhere to buy fast. Tried to bypass power and aisle. I believe that this is not appropriate. Although power can be shunted. A aisle does not need to be shunted and even probably harmful. And not fit all of these shunts there. Fine gold excellent capacitors if you like warmth deep and soft bass, not straining high frequency and high-medium frequency, low male vocals and soft female vocals. Silmic2 is good resolution, fine high frequencies but weak bass and bright high-mid frequencies. Nichicon es excellent resolution in all frequency ranges, faster and deeper bass than with silmic2, but less deep than with FG. I'm still on the ES. But now I am listening to the player more often with TFZ galaxy t2. T2 softer headphones and cable I have a hybrid copper-copper-silver plated 2.5 mm. But with Tfz tequila 1 player sounds a little bright. Most of all I liked the combination of tequila with FG. Or rather with tequila es is also good and very atmospheric, but a little bright. Bright also with tequila and silmic2.
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May 2, 2019 at 5:01 PM Post #47 of 473
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The most difficult thing in the modifications - wait for the burning of capacitors. I did not burn silmic2 and jumped on the FG. And now I'm on ES. Silmic2 need to burn more than 100 hours. ES is burns too long. But at the moment I'm on ES. If there are new modifications, I'll post them here. FG is fast burned. ES is very musically, even on cheap headphones. DX 150 and modification 156ES I was reminded of the sound of Sony's ES series. Musically, but with high resolution. But there are not many synthetics in 156ES, quite a bit. With Silmic2 such a not was, but on me with silmic2 bass was worse. Synthetics can be a consequence of the organic electrolyte in the power supply. Need to look for good capacitors in power supply.
 
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May 3, 2019 at 9:20 AM Post #48 of 473
The most difficult thing in the modifications - wait for the burning of capacitors. I did not burn silmic2 and jumped on the FG. And now I'm on ES. Silmic2 need to burn more than 100 hours. ES is burns too long. But at the moment I'm on ES. If there are new modifications, I'll post them here. FG is fast burned. ES is very musically, even on cheap headphones. DX 150 and modification 156ES I was reminded of the sound of Sony's ES series. Musically, but with high resolution. But there are not many synthetics in 156ES, quite a bit. With Silmic2 such a not was, but on me with silmic2 bass was worse. Synthetics can be a consequence of the organic electrolyte in the power supply. Need to look for good capacitors in power supply.

You are enjoying remodeling. Great:smiley:
 
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May 8, 2019 at 1:35 PM Post #49 of 473
Yes, the Low voltage rails and high voltage rails are also re-engineered with upgraded coils and architecture. I will upload caps values and case sizes pictures soon
I have experience with this type of soldering desoldering and actually just purchased a great binocular microscope for circuit work. It has a camera so can connect a laptop for recording digital images from the microscope.

If I just mod the AMP 8 to EX for use with the DX220, would it sound as good as the AMP 8EX with the DX 208? Wondering if it makes sense to get a used AMP8 to practice the mods then purchase a new one and sell the AMP8EX if successful on the first run. Any chance there is a YouTuber to make a video of the mods or a step by step photo display? What do the total parts BOM purchase cost including spares?

Great work!

Thanks for sharing this.
 
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May 8, 2019 at 2:00 PM Post #50 of 473
I have experience with this type of soldering desoldering and actually just purchased a great binocular microscope for circuit work. It has a camera so can connect a laptop for recording digital images from the microscope.

If I just mod the AMP 8 to EX for use with the DX220, would it sound as good as the AMP 8EX with the DX 208? Wondering if it makes sense to get a used AMP8 to practice the mods then purchase a new one and sell the AMP8EX if successful on the first run. Any chance there is a YouTuber to make a video of the mods or a step by step photo display? What do the total parts BOM purchase cost including spares?

Great work!

Thanks for sharing this.

I would think that it cost around $120 for BOM and spare parts.

The DX220 + Amp8EX is a wonderful combo. It is beast like. I saw you asking in the main thread for this, and here I can respond to you with more details. The Amp8EX and DX200EX is a crazy combination to beat. It outperform the Stock DX220 and Amp1 MKII by a huge margins.

Dynamic, balances, finesses, details, extensions, and soundstage width+depth, back ground blackness

Now, if you toss Amp8EX onto Stock DX220. It becomes a Beast combo. The only thing it lacks is the Soundstage depth and blackness of the background, but you gain more punches/dynamic, body, and musicality.

The star here is really that Amp8EX. Both DX200 and DX220 are excellent platforms. The DX200 needed the EX applications to further enhance the performances, where as DX220, I don’t feel the need to modify it, beside the Amp8EX. Then you can see me analyzing the build of DX220 vs the 200, the DX220 itself is a successor to DX200 but using the same DAC-IC.

So, the answer here is that, if you have the ability to modify your Amp8 into EX, you will Jaw drop with DX220 stock, period.

Welcome to the modifications family of DIY, and hoping to see more successful EX Amp8, even if you list it for sell later, I am sure many people would love to buy it :)
 
May 8, 2019 at 9:23 PM Post #51 of 473
I would think that it cost around $120 for BOM and spare parts.

The DX220 + Amp8EX is a wonderful combo. It is beast like. I saw you asking in the main thread for this, and here I can respond to you with more details. The Amp8EX and DX200EX is a crazy combination to beat. It outperform the Stock DX220 and Amp1 MKII by a huge margins.

Dynamic, balances, finesses, details, extensions, and soundstage width+depth, back ground blackness

Now, if you toss Amp8EX onto Stock DX220. It becomes a Beast combo. The only thing it lacks is the Soundstage depth and blackness of the background, but you gain more punches/dynamic, body, and musicality.

The star here is really that Amp8EX. Both DX200 and DX220 are excellent platforms. The DX200 needed the EX applications to further enhance the performances, where as DX220, I don’t feel the need to modify it, beside the Amp8EX. Then you can see me analyzing the build of DX220 vs the 200, the DX220 itself is a successor to DX200 but using the same DAC-IC.

So, the answer here is that, if you have the ability to modify your Amp8 into EX, you will Jaw drop with DX220 stock, period.

Welcome to the modifications family of DIY, and hoping to see more successful EX Amp8, even if you list it for sell later, I am sure many people would love to buy it :)
Ok

Thanks for the detailed answer and your opinions. You really motivated me to do this once my amp 8 arrives.
1. Now is there one place to get all the exact BOM for the mod to place my parts order?
2. Is there an organized step by step photographic tutorial somewhere.
3. Does anyone have a dead AMP8 they can send me (will pay shipping) before throwing out to use as a mock trial soldering run?
4. Once all is done, how do I know if there are any shorts or dead/ cold solder points?
5. Has anyone done a video ala YouTube to demo the mod?
6. Does the burn in time differ between the stock and mod EX?

Thanks

Dan
 
May 10, 2019 at 10:30 PM Post #53 of 473
Ok

Thanks for the detailed answer and your opinions. You really motivated me to do this once my amp 8 arrives.
1. Now is there one place to get all the exact BOM for the mod to place my parts order?
2. Is there an organized step by step photographic tutorial somewhere.
3. Does anyone have a dead AMP8 they can send me (will pay shipping) before throwing out to use as a mock trial soldering run?
4. Once all is done, how do I know if there are any shorts or dead/ cold solder points?
5. Has anyone done a video ala YouTube to demo the mod?
6. Does the burn in time differ between the stock and mod EX?

Thanks

Dan

Nice to meet you.
This DIY is completely self-responsible, so I do not recommend it, but I would like you to get the wonderful sound of EX.

About your question....

1. At the beginning of this thread, there is an explanation of the parts and suppliers required in the image by Whitigir.
Please extract only the part of AMP8.
2.I think that this thread is all about EX.
I have not seen anything else.
3. ...
4.In the case of shorts, the battery may be exhausted in an instant, or it may damage the DX220.
In the case of dead / cold, there is no sound or noise is generated so you can see immediately.
Problem avoidance requires your skills, and problem resolution requires your knowledge.

Check the datasheets for each part and I think you will get success in temperature control.
AMP8 is small and the PCB heats up quickly at work.
I think that it is better to divide work several times without rushing work.

I hope you get an EX sound.
 
May 10, 2019 at 10:41 PM Post #54 of 473
Nice to meet you.
This DIY is completely self-responsible, so I do not recommend it, but I would like you to get the wonderful sound of EX.

4.In the case of shorts, the battery may be exhausted in an instant, or it may damage the DX220.
In the case of dead / cold, there is no sound or noise is generated so you can see immediately.
Problem avoidance requires your skills, and problem resolution requires your knowledge.

Yeah, I'm not sure how comfortable you are soldering small surface mount components but some of them are quite close together and easy to short.

If you're not in the habit of checking your work under a scope, you should here. For amp8EX you can just use a magnifying glass, or zoom in with a cell phone or iPad. But, you should use some kind of magnification to make sure you don't have any accidental solder bridges.

I hope you get the EX sound too. It is truly worth it.
 
May 11, 2019 at 1:16 AM Post #56 of 473
Yeah, I'm not sure how comfortable you are soldering small surface mount components but some of them are quite close together and easy to short.

If you're not in the habit of checking your work under a scope, you should here. For amp8EX you can just use a magnifying glass, or zoom in with a cell phone or iPad. But, you should use some kind of magnification to make sure you don't have any accidental solder bridges.

I hope you get the EX sound too. It is truly worth it.

D6Qj7hoU0AAlBed.jpg:large

It may be an extra thing. . .
A few solder bridges can be removed with flux, and a clear bridge removal would be better with a thin Wick.
When removing it, the unnecessary solder of Land is removed, and installation becomes easy if the preparation for installation is well done.
I think that there is no problem if there is a tool that you are familiar with.

I feel like this.
Wick: 0.8mm (HOZAN is recommended if available)
Flux: good BS-95B
Flux cleaner: good BS-T20B
Spare solder: good SD-51(SD-62)
You do not need a cat.
 
May 11, 2019 at 7:17 AM Post #57 of 473
I have no soldering skills, but why I'm I here?
My goal is to build the AMP8 EX. I will first take
These four notes were the most essential parts of my experience getting to the EX. If you want to know more about how it sounded afterwards I’ve posted on the SQ in the main DX200 thread. I sincerely wish you all best with your modding.

The Build | notes

If you’re reading this you’ve probably already heard that the path to this upgrade is littered with the bodies of dead amp8 modules. Not one, but two of those modules are mine (RIP sweet departed 8s). My personal feeling on this is that modding is going "off-road." You don't start unless you're willing to accept the risks. There's no warranty, guarantee, or clear maps. If you're lucky you get someone who has hacked out a path in front of you. In our case, that’s Whitigir. Failure shouldn’t make you afraid but wiser. Unexpected problems are to be expected even as they take you by surprise. You keep trudging along and the last surprise is that you actually get to where you're going. Of course, whether that kind of investment is worth it for you is a personal decision. You should know from the outset though that this is–not–a paint by numbers, plug and play upgrade. The gains are great but the risks are real. You can maximize your chance for success by keeping a few things in mind.

1) Don’t do the mod yourself. If you don’t have experience working on delicate surface mount boards find a professional to do the component replacement. I’ve already shared on this a couple of times before so I won’t go into detail here. Unfortunately, it may not be easy to find someone that really knows what they’re doing and the labor is expensive. I’ve talked with a few techs now and I think somewhere around 125USD per board is fair (1 amp, 1 main), or 250 for the whole job. I found one tech near me in the Chicago area that I think is extremely skilled and I talked with him about taking on this job for anyone interested at that price. If you want to send him your whole unit or amp, PM me and I can help set things up.

2) Do the mod yourself. This is the opposite of note number 1. If you can’t find an experienced tech, and you have soldering skills, and the time, you can do, at least, amp8 yourself. I didn’t think so before, but now I’m getting pretty comfortable working with the components on these boards and it’s actually become quite enjoyable. The mod on the main board is a bit trickier because some of the work is in densely packed locations and you have to be confident with switching out the two regulator ICs. Hot air is probably the best option here and if you aren’t skilled with SMD reflow do not do what I did. I bought a hot air station, watched a bunch of YouTube videos, and tackled it like man. Believe me you will end up crying like a little girl.

However, I am convinced at this point that Jamoto is right, and that an iron is a completely viable option for amp8EX. I actually think the safest route for amp8 is with an iron and low temp solder (quikchip or fastchip). (Also, cut off the bicapped Panasonics before removing the tantalums.) If you work carefully and slowly, never forcing anything, you will not lift any pads. You can keep the temperature nice and low on those super sensitive output cap pads. I was down around 180C and didn’t have any problems. You can ramp up the temperature to 230-250 and get in and out of the larger caps near the opamps and the couple in the middle. This is advisable because those two middle caps are in a crowded location. If you were to work with lower heat the time necessary can cause the small resistors nearby to desolder before the caps. You may want to do these small caps under a magnifying glass or endoscopic cam. A key to ensuring a good outcome is to find an old SMD board that you can practice on. Don’t make the amp8 your practice board. I offer this specific note because, after seeing the work of gannjunior’s tech, I realized that a bunch of techs out there aren’t going to take as much care with your amp as you yourself.

So, that’s the tricky part. Step three and four can be done by anyone regardless of skill. Step three is really more of a craft project so if you can’t find a qualified tech ask your mom to do it. I’m sure she won’t charge you too much (grin).

3) TDK and GRP. Whit posted instructions for Chaiyuta’s TDK sheeting mod a while back, but just recently put up the Ground Return Path (GRP) mod. I would recommend doing these together because they both affect the final sound. When you do the GRP mod you will get improved performance and you will notice it right away in the increased treble energy. Unlike the transient intermodulation distortion you’re getting from noisy components, this is clean treble. So if you restricted the amount of TDK sheeting to retain a bright tonality the GRP mod will cause you to adjust this and use more of the sheeting. Basically, you can suppress more noisy energy with the TDK sheets as you reveal more clean energy with the GRP mod.

As for the disassembly, when you follow Twister’s excellent guide make sure to eject your SD card or the main board won’t come out. Also, for me, the one tricky part was the ribbon cable that connects the volume/power controls. I thought I had to get the white line on the ribbon to reach all the way to the edge of the housing. I pushed it in with a tweezer and ripped the ribbon at the right angle. You actually don’t need to force it in further, it will just slide into place. You shouldn’t have any problems, but the tight bend does it make possible to damage this thin ribbon. In this unlikely event you can contact Paul and get a replacement for cheap. IBasso is the best.

4) Digital EX (DSD). This last note is not part of the EX mod, but for me the software enhancements are a substantial part of the upgraded sound. In order of descending importance to SQ they are: DSD upconversion, Fidelizer’s Advanced Rom with Lurker’s FW, UAPP, and the latest Oreo 8.1 release. The EX mod is all about fidelity and improving the SNR. These software modifications also accomplish this aim and the analog and digital sides synergize together. I would say, if you’re going to go through all the trouble of the hardware mods these far simpler and cheaper steps only make sense.


Are the software upgrades still pertinent for the DX 220?
 
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May 11, 2019 at 7:19 AM Post #58 of 473
In order of descending importance to SQ they are: DSD upconversion, Fidelizer’s Advanced Rom with Lurker’s FW, UAPP, and the latest Oreo 8.1 release.

Are these software mods needed for the DX220?
 
May 11, 2019 at 7:39 AM Post #59 of 473
In order of descending importance to SQ they are: DSD upconversion, Fidelizer’s Advanced Rom with Lurker’s FW, UAPP, and the latest Oreo 8.1 release.

Are these software mods needed for the DX220?

Hey @tunes, Definitely update 220 to the latest FW for 220, and use Lurker's add-on.

As for music player, I love UAPP, but for 220 forego Android and use Mango OS player for optimum sound quality.

As for audio files, feed the 220 the highest quality files you can and it will reward you accordingly–especially since the 220 redesigned the power delivery to the DAC.

So, yes, upconversion to DSD512 will give a wonderful boost to SQ.
 
May 11, 2019 at 8:18 AM Post #60 of 473
Hey @tunes, Definitely update 220 to the latest FW for 220, and use Lurker's add-on.

As for music player, I love UAPP, but for 220 forego Android and use Mango OS player for optimum sound quality.

As for audio files, feed the 220 the highest quality files you can and it will reward you accordingly–especially since the 220 redesigned the power delivery to the DAC.

So, yes, upconversion to DSD512 will give a wonderful boost to SQ.
Where can I get the Lurker's add-on and how is it installed on the DX220?
 

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