[lord.hypnos]

The CTFAs leave about half a millimeter for spacing between the washer and the text.

 

[Sovkiller]

Good to know...I think that the Daytons are very similar if not the same....

 

[sphinxllama]

Hello,

my question is where did you get the board? Is it directly from Dr. Meier?

Can I also use a breadboard?

Thanks for the help and sorry for my bad english!

 

[NeilR]

Anybody tried subbing the break before make version for the unavailable CK1057 switch?

 

[NeilR]

Quote:

Originally Posted by lord.hypnos The CTFAs leave about half a millimeter for spacing between the washer and the text.

Thanks- that image was very helpful!

 

[star1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sphinxllama Can I also use a breadboard?

Have a look at this picture its on the Meier-Audio site.

 

[sphinxllama]

@star1

Thanks for your quick reply! I will try to build the cross-1 this way. Also thanks for the partnumbers at farnells, it works fine with the german farnell shop too.

Did you buy the breadboard also at farnells? Maybe you can tell me the partnumber.

I got the idea of building the cross-1 on this site:
http://www.meier-audio.homepage.t-on...sivefilter.htm
thought it is the original meier-audio homepage but couldnt find the picture you posted.

Thanks
Kim

 

[Blooze]

sphinxllama:

The picture is on that site in the artistique section (or something like that). It's not with the cross section.

FWIW I built the air wired version and it seems to work fine.

 

[Ballooshi]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeilR Anybody tried subbing the break before make version for the unavailable CK1057 switch?

Neil, I have used the non-shorting Lorlin rotaries before, when I built the Cross-1 on a Rat Shack perf board. They work just fine. Of course they should, as I e-mailed Jan Meier and asked him which he used! I am using them again for this build.

Mouser #s: 10WA147 Lorlin 4x3, 10WA145 Lorlin 2x6

 

[NeilR]

Thanks, Ballooshi! Any clicks or pops as you rotate the switch?

 

[Ballooshi]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeilR Thanks, Ballooshi! Any clicks or pops as you rotate the switch?

None at all.

 

[threepointone]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ballooshi Neil, I have used the non-shorting Lorlin rotaries before, when I built the Cross-1 on a Rat Shack perf board. They work just fine. Of course they should, as I e-mailed Jan Meier and asked him which he used! I am using them again for this build. Mouser #s: 10WA147 Lorlin 4x3, 10WA145 Lorlin 2x6

now i'm getting confused. So is the shorting or the non-shorting switch the right switch? Wasn't it agreed on wayyyyyy back that the non-shorting one is the right switch which wouldn't give you any pops/clicks?

 

[Ballooshi]

Quote:

Originally Posted by threepointone now i'm getting confused. So is the shorting or the non-shorting switch the right switch? Wasn't it agreed on wayyyyyy back that the non-shorting one is the right switch which wouldn't give you any pops/clicks?

The part numbers I listed are for non-shorting switches. I don't know if any concensus was reached during the discussions on the first two pages in this thread, but both versions evidently work just fine. Blooze said he used the shorting switches without problems (no clicks / pops). I used the non-shorting rotaries with no problems either. Jan Meier said that he uses the non-shorting, which is why I used them.

Edit: Also some discussion about shorting vs. non-shorting on page 9 of this thread (Teerawit and rickcr42). Anyone else out there who has completed their build and wishes to comment?

 

[sphinxllama]

one more question

do I need metall resistors with 0.1% or do the 1% work fine for this cross-1?

thanks

 

[Teerawit]

1% resistors work fine.