gdwallasign
100+ Head-Fier
I have one running from my shield and it works great.
Douk Audio U2 Pro DDC - Poorman DDC for an affordable & clean digital signal
- Thread starter Lolito
- Start date
-
- Tags
- ddc dudok dudok audio u2 pro
Knobstler
100+ Head-Fier
Do you have to update it on pc or is it plug n play?
bmoregnr
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Aug 26, 2015
- Posts
- 159
- Likes
- 38
Just reporting back after trying 3-4 different usb cables for this, the fit of the USB - B end seems to be the issue, meaning choke, no choke, premium or run of the mill cable, if the fit on the USB - B side was less than very firm you'd get, or could get with jiggling, the high pitched whine while not powering up the unit. The cable that came with the unit is working best and all else is working well with this, and it is a nice improvement, in imaging more than anything, from what was a previous mac mini 3.5mm/toslink out to the dac/preamp.
Last edited:
Hi everyone. Has anyone tried the SMSL PO100? It is analogous to the Douk U2 and uses SMSL’s clock circuit (CK-02). Like the U2, it does not have the option for an external power supply but it should not be a problem when using toslink output, right?
Last edited:
bmoregnr
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Aug 26, 2015
- Posts
- 159
- Likes
- 38
This is the only comment or review I was able to find on that one. The person seemed to have a problem with it but maybe that was because it was a laptop. https://www.head-fi.org/threads/best-way-to-get-audio-from-macbook-spdif-coax-modi-3.963335/
The other one I might try at some point is a Topping D10s which seems to get good reviews for doing this USB>spdif task.
I use a D10s and I like it
That‘s a worry. One would expect a USB digital interface to be a rather straightforward implementation. It‘s funny that an entry-level DAC like Topping D10s would do fine, as expected (unless problems are reported as well), while dedicated units like U2 Pro and PO100 are more or less problematic, even if they cost quite close to D10s (U2 Pro).
Last edited:
I just watched a review of the D10s at YT and the reviewer found it to be degrading the signal when used as a USB bridge. Pity. Also, I’m not sure how U2Pro does.
First impression is exactly like you listed above. However, if you will carefully watch and listen to his video all this guy does is just allegedly listens to equipment and expresses his opinion based on that.
He conducts no measurements whatsover based on the fact that the "equipment to do that costs $10000".
He does not want to do blind tests.
He is unable to articulate how he came to the conclusion that there is a loss of quality when device acts as a USB bridge.
The funniest statement of the review "If you are asking it to change the format of the signal, whilst also maintaining perfect sound quality or even improving it ideally" the guy actually believes that the signal could be improved after coming through a USB bridge.
Read the comments as well.
quicklytoo4
New Head-Fier
mid-fi guy here I've had the cheapest version for a while now and comparing the Toslink out vs a cheap soundcard didn't yield any noticeable results.
Why do I use a soundcard? USB from my PC picks up a lot of noise on my external equipment, using Toslink has been my solution so far but most motherboards don't have it built in so soundcard is my go to.
Maybe the more expensive versions are better but the cheap version could still be good for people who don't have a PCI slot for a soundcard and need a reasonably priced and easy solution (I tried usb filters before, the IFI one helped but depending on the equipment was still noticeable, Topping fixed it but ran super hot while being more expensive)
Why do I use a soundcard? USB from my PC picks up a lot of noise on my external equipment, using Toslink has been my solution so far but most motherboards don't have it built in so soundcard is my go to.
Maybe the more expensive versions are better but the cheap version could still be good for people who don't have a PCI slot for a soundcard and need a reasonably priced and easy solution (I tried usb filters before, the IFI one helped but depending on the equipment was still noticeable, Topping fixed it but ran super hot while being more expensive)
Hi @sajunky! Based on this post, I've ordered and currently I am waiting for my pair of NZ2520SDA oscillators to arrive. I wanted to make sure that only two oscillators are needed for the upgrade: the third SCTF 24.000 MHz should not be replaced, correct?Here it is. Upgrading process require elementary knowlegde how to handle electronic components and ESD protection. First you need to measure a voltage in the place indicated by the arrow (photo). Against ground? Oh, forgotten... It is on the opposite corner of the oscilator.If it is 3.3V, you can follow ordering these oscilators.
You need a pair of 22.5792MHz and 24.576MHz oscilators. A board layout is universal, it will accept SMD packages 7050, 1409, and a through the hole DIP14. On the board there are soldered 7050 (7x5mm) SCT devices. Do not follow Crystekmania. I do list these devices first, as I ordered it for upgrading Amanero Combo 384 but other brands are reported to sound better. Crystek oscilators are dependent on noise coming from power supply, others are better protected.
The same 7x5mm size Crystek CCHD-575 <$13 each
Currently on stock:
https://www.mouser.com/access/?pn=CCHD-575-25-22.5792
https://www.mouser.com/access/?pn=CCHD-575-25-24.576
Large 9x14mm Crystek CCHD-957 $27 each
https://www.mouser.com/access/?pn=CCHD-957-25-22.5792
https://www.mouser.com/access/?pn=CCHD-957-25-24.576
Accusilicon AS318-B
These oscilators are offered in three packages, even in a miniature 2520 (2.5x2mm). There are used in Audio GD equipment (Crystek CCHD was also on offer, not anymore), Singxer, Denafrips and other. If you can find a reputable dealer, it is a good choice.
NZ2520SB/SD available for a while and is highly regarded. The latest model is NZ2520SDA offering more than 10dB better noise level at @10hz than Crystek. Only available in a miniature package 2.5x2mm. Even if a board do not have extended pads, it is still possible to solder it in. Typically sold in bulk quantities (thousands pieces), the only retail link I know is this $8 each:
https://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/128-ndk-nz2520sda-33v-49152mhz-451584mhz-24576mhz-225792mhz-ultra-low-phase-noise-oscillator.html
When I will modify my board, I will also look at power supply and how it improve it further. Oscilators is only the beginning.
Soldering:
You need a hot-air rework station or two ESD-safe soldering irons with medium-to-small soldering tips. And some basic soldering skills. Without hot air station you need a helper. Removing the existing oscilator require heating up simultaneously all four soldering points. One iron will operate on one side, alternating heat between two joints. First apply some flux to the joints, it will help to break corrosion layer. Do not use tip presure. It should take no more than 7 second to chip come out. If longer, stop and let it cool down, then adjust a temperature. Clean contact area and apply new flux. Place an new chip (observing pin #1 position), do not push down, let it position itself when heating up. Apply the same heating procedure. While it is possible to use one soldering iron, it is better to heat it up on all sides, it will reduce exposure to the mechanical stress. Or give this job to a local cellphone repair shop.
Ludique
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2013
- Posts
- 109
- Likes
- 53
The Ndk oscillators need an adapter board for the U2 pro.
Can you point me to a web store from where to get this adapter board?
Ludique
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2013
- Posts
- 109
- Likes
- 53
Users who are viewing this thread
