1/I've read in a few places that high impedance headphones require more voltage for a given SPL. 2/I've also read that proper damping is important for driver control. Are these related?3/ Maybe if I understood what damping was on a physical/mechanistic level, rather than conceptual (ratio of output impedance to driver circuit impedance), it would help me understand. Is there any science behind the idea that a headphone may require a much higher voltage swing for optimal response than for simple SPL level?
1/ higher voltage=more SPL. everything else working fine, voltage is loudness with twice the voltage resulting in +6db. don't worry this is one of the most misunderstood thing in the audio community. many have the idea that somehow we can always send more voltage or more power through a headphone while at the same loudness.
3/ you can see this from wikipedia
imagine that what you see is the movement of the headphone's membrane being pushed by a sudden fixed voltage. ideally it would go to a fixed position and stop, the magnet pushes the coil away in proportion to the magnetic field created by the electrical signal. so all those stuff are relative to each other and a given voltage means a given position. instead depending on damping variables we can get those movements. they do get at the same position in the end, but the trip changes for reasons.
-the dark blue would be what we call underdamped, there is very little to stop the membrane from moving freely, so it overshoots the final position and goes back and forth several times before stopping at some point because of air and stuff.
-the red one is the opposite, overdamped. there are a lot of forces that oppose the free movement of the membrane, so it doesn't move as fast and can't oscillate as much. think of this as the air being replaced by oil.
-the last one, clear blue is some in-between case, where the movement is fairly free and fast, but still dampened enough to limit ringing.
2/from a purely electrical point of view, what we want is for the coil to move according to the variations of the signal. that means moving with the signal, but it also means limiting the potential influence from other variables!!!! we want reasonable efficiency when possible, we want the electrical forces to dominate the mechanical ones to some extent because we still have a signal to "copy". we also want to limit potential changes in voltage for electrical reasons, like various changes in impedance, be it per frequency, or because you're using another amp and it doesn't have exactly the same impedance as the old one. in short we wish for stability just as much as fidelity. strong impedance damping, often called
impedance bridging is what we use to reach that goal and almost al modern headphones are built expecing to be used following that principle. in such a scenario, the headphone has high impedance compared to the amp(ideally at least 10 times higher). what that means for the electrical signal is that the current has a real hard time flowing through the coil, and voltage stays very stable(and that's what we really want as voltage is loudness). even if you go from a 0.2ohm amp to a 3ohm amp, and even if the headphone's impedance instead of being flat, looks like this:
if you don't care to respect the 1/10 ratio, among other things, in this case you will apply an EQ to the sound. some might not call it that because they think EQ is an insult, but that's what it is in this case with a hd650. where there is the impedance bump, the voltage will go higher, boosting that specific frequency area. and the higher the amp's impedance, the stronger the bass bump. keeping the 1/10Th ratio ensures that this signature change will be kept under 1db.
in a few cases with specific gears, it can sound nice and be desirable to some people to have a high impedance amp. on speakers some will like adding a few ohm to the amp to change how the subs will sound. bad damping in such a case often feels like the low end loosen up a bit. there are a few cases like that where some people enjoy what is basically doing it wrong on purpose. with multidriver IEMs, the changes in signature can be all over the place, more bass, less bass, rolled off bass (if the amp as protective caps), weird stuff happening at the crossover frequencies between each driver... like anything, sometime we're lucky and we somehow enjoy the resulting sound, but so very often the result sucks objectively and subjectively. unless I clearly have measurements of both the amp and headphone letting me anticipate what wil happen, I don't play with fire and prefer to pick a good impedance ratio. that's how it should be for almost all gears.
I hope it's clear, but I 'm usually not
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