Here are some pictures as request by a couple people. You can see where I replaced the white ceramic resistors with the 1% Mill resistors,not that brand of resistors matters much, it's easy if you know how to solder. The crossover boards are held in place by a jagged toothed plastic brace inserted to the cabinet that can be carefully pried out with a screwdriver. Also you can see, KEF thought it a good idea to wrap their capacitors on the tweeter board in their own constrained layer damping material, the same stuff they put on the front cabinet bracing. A quick peek underneath reveals they are Clarity Caps. There also is not much space to work with as far as placing your own extra CDL material but it works and I also put some behind the Xover boards since there is enough clearance. More importantly, I put two layers of the Dynamite on the baffle as shown to reduce reverberation directly to the driver as well as some smaller cut pieces on the other areas such as the raised lip where the driver is screwed into the baffle. In the last pic you can see some white cotton batting in the back which I experimented with replacing some of the foam but didn't find there was much of a difference so I put all the foam pieces back in, not blocking the port on the upper right. The tan looking stuff is the soft material KEF uses between the two hard surfaces of the cab bracing and the baffle to complete the CDL system. A stiff surface is the reason I chose Dynamite because other brands I used did not have aluminum backing as thick as Dynamite does, and yet another horrible brand I used actually had the butyl rubber melt , thankfully I found that out the hard way with much cheaper speakers years ago. Note: I don't have any relation to Dynamat, it's just what I have found that works best after using several other brands.