DIY: Mini--> Mini
May 25, 2011 at 2:59 PM Post #16 of 25


Quote:
sorry nullstring, but this is where you are being a little bit naive. there is a big reason you cant just use usb audio with it,
 
Firstly it requires for the ipod to be told its alright to send the data
Secondly the output is likely to be pretty jittery,
3rd you will have to use a dac that supplies its own power for the usb receiver as ipod will run out of juice quickly otherwise.
4th it took Matt McBeth (the designer) quite some time to develop this device and he has been contracting for Apple for years (then it took ages to get approved, copyright lawyers, music industry approval etc) 
 
then you have software, as with the solo the dac controls the ipod so the data stream is sent according to its needs. the way its described on the alo site, it sounds to me like the lesser known isochronous end-point, not the asynchronous they say. but thats without all the info, so totally could be wrong there
 
i dont know why you would use the bantam in this way, no offense to the designers, as it was designed as an entry level cheap dac project for people just starting in diy to get their teeth into. Personally i dont see it as an upgrade to the internal dac, more like a downgrade, as at least the last version i saw just used the pcm270X usb receiver's own internal dac.



Sorry, I was just rambeling/thinking outloud.
I didn't mean for that to be taken so seriously.
 
 
That said, you haven't explained to me why this wouldn't work.
 
My assumptions
I actually know very little about OSX/iOS, so some of this could just be plain wrong.
  • We're only talking about devices running unix
  • USB audio works in darwin on OSX, so I doubt there is any reason it wouldn't work on iOS if added to the kernel
  • You can compile in the USB drivers as kernel modules or into the kernel directly (possibly wrong? maybe iOS kernel is closed source unlike OSX kernel)
  • iOS uses the same sound stack as OSX.
  • iPhone can be made to work in Host Mode/OTG mode
 
Please tell me which one of my assumptions is incorrect?
The information you stated is mostly only valid with the propriety usb interface by apple...
 
 
This sort of method works on Android phones. ie. Nexus 1
source: http://sven.killig.de/android/N1/2.2/usb_host/
 
 
Also, I only said bantamDAC because I was discussing a DAC that follows USB Audio 1.0 specs. If it works with this, it'll work with any of the USB Audio 1.0 DACs
 
EDIT: so, I looked into it.. and it looks like this works on both the Apple TV(maybe?) and the iPad with USB Camera Connection Kit.
This leads me to conclude that will can work on the iPhone and iPod Touch as soon as someone gets a working USB port in host mode, and a usb audio drivers if they aren't included.
Now, whether thats possible or not. I don't know.
 
http://www.maclife.com/article/feature/seven_hidden_features_ipad_camera_connection_kit
 
Apple TV:
http://wiki.awkwardtv.org/wiki/Enable_Kext_Loading
http://0xfeedbeef.com/appletv/
 
 
May 25, 2011 at 8:14 PM Post #17 of 25
yes it works with crappy usb 1.1, i use the ipad connection kit, which has been known about and used with limited success for the last 18 months or so, but it wont work with iphone and i'm led to believe its not just a software stack issue, believe me, we hoped it would and people with hacked phones have had extremely limited success. you still only can use very low power devices, or self powered receivers and thats with an ipad, i cant imagine how low the power limit is for iphone.
 
of course its theoretically possible, but so was it with ipod for years and with quite a few people working on it there hasnt been any luck and like i said the guy who did the solo spent a long time doing it properly and he had all the support as an official developer and is a dsp wiz. doing it as a diy project would be folly i feel. i have spliced a adum device and battery supply in so i can use the ipad with most usb 1.0 devices, but i still just use the iriver.
 
the camera kit has the authorization chip in it too btw
btw i was saying exactly the same things as you are now (and so have many others before you) right down to the similarity to unix before it came out and when it just came out, but sadly it seems a dead end. perhaps with the right team of people you could sort it out, but you can bet the next iOS update would close the holes. 
 
apple has a lot of money in supporters and developers of third party software (including music and movie copyright) and hardware based on the licensing system being well locked, they have a vested interest and legal responsibility keeping it that way and if you sorted it, you would probably have to either stop upgrading your software, or keep unlocking it
 
May 26, 2011 at 11:52 AM Post #18 of 25

 
 

 
May 26, 2011 at 1:23 PM Post #19 of 25
at least twist the wires (in channel pairs), looks like you need some heatshrink; as it is i cant see it lasting long with that 18ga wire and no strain relief at all on a short cable
 
May 31, 2011 at 8:25 PM Post #21 of 25
Hi all! Noob in DIY here. (**lengthy post warning**)
 
I'm currently on an iPhone 2G atm (yeah, I know it's ancient...but wth, I got it for cheap...so.). I've tried using the Fiio L3 LOD with my E7 and got no love with calls as well as with EMI, decided to return the bugger to amazon.
 
Currently I'm on a Griffin SmartTalk mic -> Phonak/Audeo 112 arrangement (no budget for better/2-driver BA IEMs atm). Obviously it doesn't sound very good for now (lack of extension - sub-bass in particular; compressed dynamics; LLD's not represented; harsh/sibilant treble w/o being crisp; small soundstage). I'm thinking of putting the E7 back in the loop with a mini-mini arrangement like so:
 
iPhone integrated (at max vol.) -> Griffin mic (4-conductor) -> custom mini-mini cable (colouration, and maybe highlight more details if possible?) -> E7 (for amp, vol. control, colouration) -> Phonak 112
 
I intend to run a pretty long length for this mini-mini (unlike most of the common "shorty" ones featured on this thread) setup. Say, about 1m/3ft or so. Ideally, this cable shouldn't burn a hole in the pocket, but I'm willing to pay a reasonable bit more for quality components (just no Nordost/Acoustic Revive kind of budget). In fact, I'm currently thinking of an odd combi of a Viablue 3.5 + some shielded OCC copper bulk wire (braided too, maybe?) + Switchcraft R/A and silver solders on both ends. (any thoughts on this combi, ladies and gents? Or should I just do a Viablue to Viablue?)
 
I know SQ issues can be minimised using the LOD, but I cannot afford to compromise my ability to stay connected and, therefore, no "airplane mode" for me. I don't mind using an LOD if someone is willing to show me the ropes how (I'll be willing to start a new thread for this, if needed). Also, I've tried using a few "cheap and cheerful" cables (including the stock cable from Fiio) and the setup seems to respond to these changes.
 
Are there any good guides for me to look up? Or should I go ahead with my weird Frankencable (or maybe even swap out the Switchcraft for a special LOD)? And how much attention should I pay to materials?
 
Thanks a lot and sorry for the long read! Cheers!
 
Jun 9, 2011 at 12:05 PM Post #23 of 25
As long as you short pin 11 with pin 15 in the LOD (some use a resistor but so far I haven't found that necessary) an LOD can be used with the iPhone. The Fiio ones.. I'm not too sure as to their compatibility, but if they work with the iPod 3G and above they should work with any iPhone version as well. Your 3.5 that you described, by the way, shouldn't cost you more than 60. And I quote that number only because 1m of decent quality copper cable = 4m worth of wire. Then add in the fact that viablue/switchcraft aren't exactly cheap plugs, and labour costs.. Materials should work out to 30 or so I think? Though I am not entirely familiar with Viablue prices.
 
Jun 12, 2011 at 9:42 PM Post #24 of 25
Nice work
 
Quote:
My cooper wiring is about 0,50 cent/metre :D
I just finished construction and 22 AWG cable was just the right size!

Here is the plugs I used:
 

 
And here are the tiny welds. Worthy of surgery ^ ^
 


The final result:
 


And now, with that I'm going to link a Hifiman ALO Rx.



 
 
Jun 13, 2011 at 3:12 PM Post #25 of 25


Quote:
As long as you short pin 11 with pin 15 in the LOD (some use a resistor but so far I haven't found that necessary) an LOD can be used with the iPhone. The Fiio ones.. I'm not too sure as to their compatibility, but if they work with the iPod 3G and above they should work with any iPhone version as well. Your 3.5 that you described, by the way, shouldn't cost you more than 60. And I quote that number only because 1m of decent quality copper cable = 4m worth of wire. Then add in the fact that viablue/switchcraft aren't exactly cheap plugs, and labour costs.. Materials should work out to 30 or so I think? Though I am not entirely familiar with Viablue prices.



no, well it depends on what model iphone he has, 3g he will get the airplane mode warning without the resistor, 3g touch and 3gs onwards he wont.
 

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