[DenonBeaver]

Quote:

The only "burn-in" happening is between your ears. "Burn-in" is the single biggest myth in audio, imho.
 
The ones that really make me laugh are the folks who claim, "it really opens up after 500 hours", or something along those lines.
 
Seriously??? Come on.....

 

I might believe this when it comes to amps and dacs but their is an obvious difference when it comes to headphone burn in. Drivers being being pushed for hours and hours allows them to change their sound frequency without a doubt.

 

[SunshineReggae]

Quote:

 
Well, whatever it is, the end result is more happiness for me...and that's all that matters

 
This mentality always surprise me a little. I mean aren't you interested in knowing why and how things are as they are, and what causes what?

 

[Dubstep Girl]

i would hate to have the ears of a non believer....

 

[defguy]

Take an identical piece of electronics, speaker, amp, headphone etc. Run one in for a few months and then listen to one fresh out of the box. There will usually be obvious differences, warmer, smoother, more open, less congested etc. Not every single piece of equipment will benefit but most will.

 

[meat01]

Quote:

Take an identical piece of electronics, speaker, amp, headphone etc. Run one in for a few months and then listen to one fresh out of the box. There will usually be obvious differences, warmer, smoother, more open, less congested etc. Not every single piece of equipment will benefit but most will.

Why is it always better with burn in?  Why doesn't burn in ever make things sound worse?
 
Quote:

i would hate to have the ears of a non believer....

I thought this hobby was about listening and enjoying music?  No one ever told me I had to believe in things that aren't real, just because they get repeated here daily.

 

[duncan1]

But they are real-MEAT01 is right-not because he said so or even I said so but actual "down to earth" testing and listening.
                    Capacitors-especially electrolytics give off noise which through use reduce down-yes you can get faulty caps. 
                    But we are talking standard conditions here.
                     GOOD manufactured tubes are or were in the past "burnt in " in the factory -I have watched it.
                     While resistors can give off noise it is usually when they heat up so low noise is the order of the day
                      Modern ones give off little noise.
                      ALL built audio equipment should  be tested over a period to ensure no problems. This is down to individual manufacturers.
                      My own build mono -buffer amps had to be "run in" for a week .
                      AS did my Stax- 727-11 when I modified it.- I said in a post on it you should run it for a week before coming to any conclusion on audio fidelity. And all SS audio equipment should be left on -24/7 -and yes it isn't good for the environment- you pay your money and take your choice .
                          I could hear the difference-this is down to audio perception or awareness.
                             The differences were Audibly REAL!

 

[buson160man]

Quote:

Thanks for the info Dubstep Girl! 
 
In the end I decided to give the Mjolnir a little more time and am finding that it's now starting to fill out nicely.  As paradoxper mentioned, burning it in using pink noise has done wonders to its overall sound characteristics.  The harshness is settling down and the bass is less boomy.  Imagining has improved and my brain is getting used to the forceful nature of this amp.
 
I'm also moving to Japan this summer and the thought of trying to keep the tubes safe during transit worried me.
 
For a different taste I picked up a used Burson HA-160DS for $500 to play with.  It's not in the same league as the WA6-SE or the Mjolnir, but it's cheap enough to try and will make a nice semi-portable system for around the house.  If I don't like it I'll just resell. 

 I have a ha-160 amp and it works pretty well with my lcd2 v2s.But I would suggest that you upgrade the fuse in it I am using a hifi tuning supreme fuse in my unit and a upgraded power cable and the result was a much more relaxed and refined presentation at the same time.It also improved the reproduction of dynamics as well. I think you got a great deal for 500 bucks I am not familar with the the burson 160 dacs.But I think you got a great value in the ha160-ds.

 

[Theogenes]

Thanks to buson160man for bringing this back OT. Frankly, the real vs imagined burn-in debate is absolutely beaten to the point of being utterly trite at this point, IMO. Believe or don't believe, let's get on with the impressions of the Mjolnir (the actual point of the thread, if I'm not mistaken). 
 
Not trying to be unpleasant, but we have whole threads dedicated for a number of subjects that aren't "Dissapointed with Mjolnir," but as the title faithfully states, this ain't one of 'em. I'm very interested in all thoughts about the Mjolnir, both positive and unbecoming, so those with more info or impressions would be very much appreciated! 

 

[paradoxper]

The positive comments about Mjolnir are reserved for the Mjolnir thread. 

 

[hiiisociety]

Any update on this amp after prolong burn in?  Any difference?  This is THE amp that is high on my list to pull the trigger on for my LCD-2.
 
Thanks,
-J

 

[preproman]

The Mjolnir is going to be the Mjolnir no matter how much time it has on it.  It's just it's sound sig IMO.  I found a few things wrong with it that you would not know using any LCD.  It extends in the upper registries pretty well, the problem is it does not extend among the full spectrum down to the lower registries..  To be more exact. The bass does not extend on this amp with other headphones other than the LCDs.  
 
Also the Mjolnir is not very versatile IMO.  Headphones like Denons, ATs, IEMs, Fostex.  Real sensitive headphones are not a great match with this amp.  
 
If I only had either LCD - the Mjolnir is the amp I would have no question.  Saying that.  I'd go with the BHA-1 over the Mjolnir with multiple headphones.  The B22 and the GS-X mk both are better and more flexible / versatile Solid State amps IMO.  I still have not heard the Soloist yet, but the 160D I didn't like so much - really grainy in the upper registries.
 
Just one guys opinion.

 

[paradoxper]

Quote:

The Mjolnir is going to be the Mjolnir no matter how much time it has on it.  It's just it's sound sig IMO.  I found a few things wrong with it that you would not know using any LCD.  It extends in the upper registries pretty well, the problem is it does not extend among the full spectrum down to the lower registries..  To be more exact. The bass does not extend on this amp with other headphones other than the LCDs.  
 
Also the Mjolnir is not very versatile IMO.  Headphones like Denons, ATs, IEMs, Fostex.  Real sensitive headphones are not a great match with this amp.  
 
If I only had either LCD - the Mjolnir is the amp I would have no question.  Saying that.  I'd go with the BHA-1 over the Mjolnir with multiple headphones.  The B22 and the GS-X mk both are better and more flexible / versatile Solid State amps IMO.  I still have not heard the Soloist yet, but the 160D I didn't like so much - really grainy in the upper registries.
 
Just one guys opinion.

I'm not sure if Mojo settles down, but you do or don't get use to it. I also find bass does extend down with other headphones,
evident by my HD800 "stomping" the LCD-2.
 
Mojo isn't versatile though, but with LCD's or HD800 it's a treat. Even HE-6 is ok. 
 
I think for non sensitive cans either Mojo or GS-X are the best. BHA-1 is a stand in for Mojo but with less aggressiveness.
Soloist is too boring sounding. But Mojo could be too exciting. GS-X strikes a balance and shouldn't be offensive in either way.
 
Besides your B22, prep, "all" other's have been surpassed in SQ by any of the aforementioned. IMO.
 
Just another guys opinion that mostly agree's with yours. 

 

[preproman]

Quote:

I'm not sure if Mojo settles down, but you do or don't get use to it. I also find bass does extend down with other headphones,
evident by my HD800 "stomping" the LCD-2.
 
Mojo isn't versatile though, but with LCD's or HD800 it's a treat. Even HE-6 is ok. 
 
I think for non sensitive cans either Mojo or GS-X are the best. BHA-1 is a stand in for Mojo but with less aggressiveness.
Soloist is too boring sounding. But Mojo could be too exciting. GS-X strikes a balance and shouldn't be offensive in either way.
 
Besides your B22, prep, "all" other's have been surpassed in SQ by any of the aforementioned. IMO.
 
Just another guys opinion that mostly agree's with yours. 

 
 
Same here as I agree with you as well on most.  Do you know what the gain is set for the Mojo?  The Statement amp should be very versatile can't for it to drop.  SS or tube - that is the question..

 

[paradoxper]

Quote:

 
 
Same here as I agree with you as well on most.  Do you know what the gain is set for the Mojo?  The Statement amp should be very versatile can't for it to drop.  SS or tube - that is the question..

8x. It should be. Reminds me of something like the Leben but at its price point nothing like it.
 
I still don't get that because Jason says they'll sound identical, which just seems hard to do. SS for me. Tubes just put massive holes in the pocket and detracts from the music.

 

[nelamvr6]

I was skeptical about burn-in for solid state devices also.
 
But a few years ago I became interested in overclocking computers.  I was just a fun hobby, a lark.
 
During that phase in my life I discovered, like many others,  that if my overclocked CPU was not stable, I could improve its stability by burning it in.  For example, using nice round numbers, if my chip wasn't stable at 1 GHz, I could lower the clock to 900 MHz and burn it in, using software designed to purposefully stress the chip.  After a period of time, sometimes overnight, sometimes longer, the chip would be rock solid at 1 GHz.  Believe it.  I used my seriously overclocked computers for everything from normal business tasks to gaming.
 
The most common explanation floating around the boards was "electromigration", which is defined in Wikipedia as "the transport of material caused by the gradual movement of the ions in a conductor due to the momentum transfer between conducting electrons and diffusing metal atoms."
 
I don't know if that theory is the right explanation, I just know that burn-in is real, I've seen it, I've heard it.