dcg needs a car
Apr 19, 2002 at 5:55 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 21

dcg

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OK, I graduate in a month and the car I've been driving is kind of a POS. Basically, I'm worried about the reliability. I guess I could get a couple grand for it. So, the question is, should I get a used car, or finance a new one?

In addition to the $2k or so I'd get from selling the old car, I've got another $5k or so. However, I also have student loans I have to pay back, and all the other miscellanious expenses of moving out of the house, etc. So, I'm looking for suggestions. Right now I'm leaning toward used, as a new car at around $18k or so would run me around $280 a month for 5 years w/ 3k down, which is money I could be spending on toys.

As for what kind of car I'm looking for, if someone gave me $25,000 and said go buy a car I'd head to the nearest Subaru dealer and buy myself a very badass Impreza WRX. Since I don't have that kind of money, I'll be looking for something sporty and cool looking (yes, I like the looks of the WRX), and I wouldn't mind if it had a good amount of trunk space. No SUVs.
 
Apr 19, 2002 at 11:20 AM Post #3 of 21
Ok, I'm almost 16, and well, lets say I've put quite some thought into this.
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Not like I'd get ANYTHING, I mean, its not like my parents will buy me one. And you just can't buy a car for $1200. . .

anyway, how do you like Acura Integras? I LOVE em. You looking to tune it a bit?

Civic Si? Civic?

Toyota Celica?
 
Apr 19, 2002 at 2:42 PM Post #6 of 21
Subaru... very nice!

But, as with just about everything that you'll have to live with for a while, try before you buy!

I demo'd a couple different Subaru models (Forrester, Outback... we were looking for a station wagon after the arrival of a little one) in 1999. The dealer also happened to have VW. Just for grins, decided to take the Passat wagon for a spin.

OHMYGOD!!!

The Passat was in another legue entirely from the Subaru. Better engineering, better layout of controls (placement of stupid things like cupholders was just goofy on the Subaru... definately not a deal breaker for a car, but sorta makes you wonder what they were smokin' when they put the cupholder directly on top of the stereo... blocks access to the stero controls AND allows condensation from your drink to drip INTO the CD player), better fit and finish, better handling, better acceleration, AMAZING brakes, excellent comfort. In short, quite a revelation. OK the WRX was not available at that time so it's not really a fair comparison. But the Passat that we were demoing was a basic model 4 cylinder. Had (and still has!) plenty o' giddyup. Ya, we went with the Passat and are still VERY happy with it. In fact, we're now looking for another car to replace an old Saturn and are seriously considering another Passat.

Check out Edmunds.com. Great reviews and pricing information.

You can get a VERY nice Passat GLS V6 with 4 wheel drive (they call it the 4Motion system) for almost exactly the same price as the WRX. If all wheel drive is not all that important to you, then you can get a V6 GLS for a couple thou less than the WRX.

Also, recently had a chance to drive a very nice rental car, 2002 Camry. Very nice! Excellent ride, very comfy, lots of space in the trunk, good giddyup and handling. Nice car!

Can probably find the Passat, Jetta, or Camry in your price range used from model year 1999 or 2000.

Good luck!
Bruce
 
Apr 19, 2002 at 7:22 PM Post #7 of 21
Quote:

Originally posted by dcg
...Right now I'm leaning toward used, as a new car at around $18k or so would run me around $280 a month for 5 years w/ 3k down, which is money I could be spending on toys.


First: I second what zowie said.

Best car advice I got: Don't buy a used car you can't pay for in 24mo and don't by a new car you can't pay for in 36mo. Five years is a LOOOONNNNGGG time to write that check every month.

And trading in cars every few years just guarantees you'll ALWAYS be making payments.

(I'm almost at a year without a car payment and it feels soooooo good
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)

Next, look for a credit union you can join and get an account and loan set up with them for what you think you can afford - you'll get a lower rate and they aren't as likely to loan you too much. New or used, dealers are hurting in most places and if you walk in the door talking cash, they'll be ready to deal.

If you are serious about used, spend $25 with CarFax.com and use it. Do the Kellys Blue Book thing, too.

Good luck and God's Speed!
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Apr 19, 2002 at 10:41 PM Post #8 of 21
Quote:

yes, I like the looks of the WRX


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Really?
I thought I was the only one. Now I know there are TWO of us.
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Apr 19, 2002 at 11:11 PM Post #9 of 21
Quote:

Originally posted by royboy2k


eek.gif
Really?
I thought I was the only one. Now I know there are TWO of us.
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Three if you count grinch, but I'm not going to because of what I major person I think he is right now.
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j/k

AR and zowie - rest assured, I wouldn't even be considering a new car if I didn't have a job (new referring to a different one than the one I have, be it new or used.)

The problem with Hondas is that the damn things don't seem to depreciate (same with Intergras to a certain extent). Also, the new ones seem overpriced to me. I dunno, I'll have to look around I guess.

I was looking at the Sentra SE-R spec v, which comes in around $17.8 I think. The VW GTI is actually cheaper than I thought, I think in the 18s with the 1.8 turbo. I think I'd lean that way over a Jetta or Passat. However, the idea of paying for a car for 5 years definitely doesn't appeal to me.

AR - good tips on the loan and the carfax, I'll definitely do both.

One other question - While I'll need a new car sooner or later, it doesn't have to be NOW. So, what is considered to be the best time of year to buy a car? Should I wait until the winter? When do the new model year cars come out?
 
Apr 20, 2002 at 12:09 AM Post #11 of 21
Cars devalue the most during the first 2-4 years. I doubt I will ever get a new car again. Sorry, priorities.
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The problem with that is, you do not know their history. So if you can make sure that you know their history (either from the individual who owned it before you, or you knew it was a loaner from a reputable mechanic or something like that), that would be best.

OTOH, it is almost always cheaper to fix the car. Mine is definitely a POS, but I will replace the engine and the transmission before I buy a new one. (Unless, of course, like the last time, my car gets totalled in an accident, but even then, I'll argue that one to death with my insurance company. Their definition of totalled is the value of the car, not what it will cost to replace it. I challenge them to ever find a car for what they gave me for the last one.)
 
Apr 20, 2002 at 7:37 AM Post #14 of 21
Another in favor of the WRX... though out of your price range.
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I took one for a test drive in October, and once you get behind the wheel of it, the interior design around you as the driver just makes you want to go fast.
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(especially if you got that ~$600 gauge to tell you when the turbo was kicking in). I kind of wish they had a 6-speed manual instead of 5.
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Apr 20, 2002 at 8:49 AM Post #15 of 21
Truthfully, drive your POS until it dies. ANY car that's paid for is better than one you owe on. Follow the maintainence schedule scrupulously, get the Chilton manual for your car and read it. Learn basically how your car works and what can break. If you stay on top of basic maintenance and get that 'squeak' fixed before it turns into a 'SKURRRRRRRRRRUNKKKKK!', you might be surprised how long your POS can last.

A car is a hole you throw money into, and the newer the car is, the deeper the hole. While you have student loan payments, drive the POS or a used car. You'll thank me when you actually have money to go out and have fun while you're paying on the college loan.

Dusty Chalk said: "Their definition of totalled is the value of the car, not what it will cost to replace it." Which leads to a savings tip for old car owners: Drop your comprehensive and collision coverage on your car, just keep you state's minimum liability insurance. If you wreck your car, it's likely you won't be able to get the full value of the repairs, since insurance companies will only give you up to the value of the car.
 

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