Damaged Macbook Pro Bezel- seeking input
Oct 22, 2009 at 2:34 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 14

Clutz

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I've got a 2.5 year old Macbook Pro that I just recently upgraded from 2GB to 4GB of RAM. Recently, my wife and I took a trip to Vancouver, during which time said Macbook Pro fell a short distance and was banged on the display housing. Shortly after this, I opened up the screen and noticed a crack on the bezel on the lower left hand side. I'll attach a photo to this post. Additionally, I need to replace the battery, because I'm getting erratic battery life performance (i.e. I'll close it down at 65% charged, but the next morning, the battery will report as dead). If the battery was the only issue, I'd just replace the battery. Additionally, I would really like to buy a second charger, because I frequently forget my charger at work or at home, which is a big pain in the butt, particularly with a crappy battery. I had originally intended to keep this computer until I started my next job, because there is a pretty good chance I'll be moving to Oxford on a fellowship, and that fellowship includes an expense account for paying for things like computers. If I am successful in obtaining the fellowship, I possibly wouldn't start the job until March 2011.

So, the way I see it- I have three options: ignore, repair, or replace.

If I ignore it, I'm worried that the problem will get worse and will result in the screen being damaged. I don't know how much of a risk this actually is, but I've seen some discussions on some forums about that happening. But on the other hand, maybe it'll be fine. The reason that this is a concern, is because I'm currently a student, which means I can buy some highly specialized software at student prices. When I buy a new computer, I'll need to buy a new license for that software, because the licenses don't transfer between hardware. The student price for this software is expensive, but reasonable, but the non-student price is unreasonably and prohibitively expensive. So if I take my chances, and go with 'ignore', and the computer breaks in January, I'm screwed. It'll cost me a lot more to buy the software, and I'll still need to replace the computer. In addition, I'll have bought another Macbook Pro battery that won't be of any use to me any longer, which will suck.

I could repair the machine, but that's not inexpensive either. It costs about $400 to get the bezel and display housing replaced, not including shipping. Add to that the price of a new battery ($129) and another charger ($60), that's almost $600. I do have Applecare, but I'm willing to bet that if anything does go wrong with the computer at this point that they'll attribute anything that needs to be repaired with the damage from the fall, so I'll be fubared there too. I'm not sure it's worth putting $600 into a machine that is nearly out of warranty, when I can replace it for between $1300 to $1800. Which brings us to option #3.

Replacement
I could replace this machine, with a refurb from Apple. They've got machines between $1299 to $1699 that would suit me just fine. In fact, the only major different, from my perspective, between the $1299 and $1699 is that the $1699 has a memory limit of 8GB versus 4GB for the $1299. The $1299 also has a smaller hard drive (250 vs 320), comes with 2GB RAM (which I'd have to upgrade to 4GB anyway), and a slower processor. Upgrading the RAM to 4GB (which I would need to do) would cost me another $100 or so, meaning it'd cost me about $1400 on the low end, to get a replacement machine. I'm not particularly bothered by the smaller hard drive, or the slower processor, but I am bothered by the 4GB memory limitation on it versus the 8GB on the higher model. Right now I can get by pretty reasonably with 4GB of RAM, but thinking two years down the road, I can imagine being limited by 4GB of RAM- at which point I may be rather disappointed that I can't upgrade to the 8GB RAM option. I also like how the $1699 machine has the integrated longer life battery than the $1299 machine (the claim the battery is good for 1000 cycles versus 300, and 7 hours versus maybe 5). The flip side though is that $300 today probably buys less than $300 in two years from now- although in 2 years from now, I'll probably have an expense account that I can pay for computer hardware on anyway, so it'll be a different ball game. Although at the same time, that same argument says that if I think I may need more than 4GB of RAM in 2 years time, that I can just replace the computer on the expense account then too. Though I do think that an extra $300 for a 10% faster processor, 2GB more memory, and another 70GB HD, plus the new better battery isn't a bad deal- especially since I go through 300 charging cycles in less than a year, which would be another $129 since Apple won't replace batteries under warranty after 300 cycles on the user replaceable batteries.

Additionally, if I do choose to replace it, then I'll still have this machine that I can use in clamshell mode, as a light file and music server. I'll even have a computer that I can browse the web on for my big screen TV with a bluetooth keyboard and mouse- or offload long term statistical analyses onto when I'm out of town.

So, what do you guys think?

p.s. I'm not going to replace it with a non-Apple computer, that's a non-starter.

 
Oct 22, 2009 at 3:34 PM Post #2 of 14
First, check with Applecare. They might replace it and it's free to ask.

If they don't fix it, I'd just epoxy the bezel back together and replace the battery.
 
Oct 22, 2009 at 3:41 PM Post #3 of 14
Hi Uncle Erik,

I'll call AppleCare and see what they say. How do I use the epoxy? Do I inject it behind the bezel, or just spread it over top?

Thanks a lot,
Brad
 
Oct 22, 2009 at 3:48 PM Post #4 of 14
The battery's a simple fix. So is the power adapter. The aluminum back of the monitor isn't affected, just the inside, right? If so I'd follow Uncle Erik's advice as it'll probably be strong enough with just a small amount of epoxy to fill the gap.

Remember to put masking tape on your screen first to avoid epoxying that!
 
Oct 22, 2009 at 3:55 PM Post #5 of 14
Hey moogoob,

Thanks- good advice. The back of the monitor has a big ding in it, but that's it. Taping up the screen with masking tape is a good idea. Can I use any kind of epoxy I would buy at Aces hardware, or is there a particular type I should get? What about aluminum bonding agents like they use in auto repair shops, or is that overkill?

Thanks
Brad
 
Oct 22, 2009 at 6:22 PM Post #7 of 14
Further thoughts: What program are you talking about where you think the licenses won't transfer between hardware?

I work for an apple repair facility and do data migrations daily--most software transfers immediately and without issue, and I can tell you if yours is known to not transfer.
 
Oct 22, 2009 at 6:41 PM Post #8 of 14
Hi kbgra1,

I'm talking about Mathematica version 7.0, and I'm almost certain the licenses won't transfer. Mathematica calculates a code called the MathID based on hardware identifiers every time it starts, and it compares this MathID to your license- it's a lock and key mechanism. You have to have the correct license for a particular MathID, otherwise it'll fail. I believe it even uses identifier codes from the hard drive, because I'm pretty sure I've heard of situations (with Mathematica 4.0) where someone upgraded their hard drive and they needed to get a new license generated. But I may be wrong, and I would appreciate your input.

Thanks a lot,
Brad
 
Oct 22, 2009 at 7:45 PM Post #9 of 14
Yes, tape the screen to keep the glue off. I'd just use a regular, fast setting epoxy, the kind where you have to mix two parts together. I'd carefully put a small amount on a toothpick and dab it on the inside edges of the split parts. Then I'd push it back together for the 90-120 seconds it takes to set.

I've repaired a couple of tiny cracks on my white MacBook that way and it came out fine.

I've had a hard time holding back from upgrading, as well. Mine has the Core 2 Duo, but is limited to 2GB RAM and its 80GB drive is 90% full. Still, it works great and I'm going to try to get another year out of it.
 
Oct 22, 2009 at 8:06 PM Post #10 of 14
The only issue I see with epoxy is that I've got a Macbook Pro with an aluminum case and aluminum bezel, so I don't think that epoxy is going to hold it together. Regular epoxy would work on polycarbonate cause it's plastic, but will it hold aluminum? That's why i was looking into aluminum epoxys, and considering finding some thin pieces of aluminum strip that I could put overtop of the crack to reinforce it.

For most of the stuff I do with my machine, 2GB is plenty of memory- but I frequently run highly processor and memory intensive statistical applications and do large gene sequencing alignments, and those can take a long time and are very memory intensive. The difference between having enough ram and not enough is huge because of the amount of swapping that ends up being required. Right now 4GB is enough, but I'm worried that in the future it won't be. I don't do those things often enough to want to invest in a separate desktop machine just for those purposes- and if I was going to do that, I'd just build a cheap box with an integrated video card, an entry level Core i7 processor and a lot of memory, and a big hard drive and stick Ubuntu on it.
 
Oct 22, 2009 at 11:21 PM Post #13 of 14
You could also ask Wolfram to let you transfer the key over, explaining your predicament with the sort-of broken computer. Mathematica System Transfers

Being in academia and not some big corporation I think they should be more lenient.

If your university has mathematica on its servers (and I'm sure Oxford does) then you can prototype your code on your computer with 'only' 4GB of RAM and actually run the program on the super-duper-powerful server farms the university makes available for graduates & faculty!

Back in undergrad even us lowly students had access to a hosted MATLAB running on a 8-core 8GB Sun computer, which was still pretty powerful at the time.

This would probably be a good time to buy a new one. Less headache and potential eyesore of a DIY job that may or may not be successful (not to knock your repairing abilities!)
 
Oct 23, 2009 at 12:29 AM Post #14 of 14
You should probably just repair - but if you're really feeling the need to upgrade (Head-fi is a gear forum after all
wink.gif
) the newer unibody Pros are pretty sweet. The multitouch glass all-button trackpad took a week to get used to, but now I love it. Also, I can't understand how I've gotten this far without a light-up keyboard.
 

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