[darren700]

Ok, so i want to re-cable my D2000's as i cannot stand the stock cable and i feel it is starting to become the weak link in my system as i have purchased all the source/dac/amps that i need/
 
I have some questions and concerns im hopping you guys can help me out with. Any suggestions are appreciated.
 
Im pretty handy with a soldering iron, no problems soldering fixes around the house, car stereo wiring, or the LIPO RC Cars i have, but thats 10 and 12ga wiring... nowhere near as small as headphone cables.
 
I think i can handle it, im just nervous about running my headphones when detaching the original cable, last thing i need is a $250 paperweight.
 
I have two soldering irons, a large 100watt Weller and a small mastercraft 25watt.
I was thinking of using the 25 watt for this task, but i would like some re-assurance, what kinda soldering iron do you guys use for recabling?
is something like this required?: Weller WLC100 Soldering Station
 
I was planning on ordering from Markertek.
 
I have some small solder and tins of flux, but what brand/thickness/type do you guys recommend? (Preferably from markertek for keeping everything together)
was thinking of this:  60/40 Qualitek RA300 Rosin Core 21 Gauge 0.032 Diameter 1 Lb. Solder
Flux, would this be ok?  Kester 186 RMA Flux Pen for Lead Free and Leaded Work
then im assuming i need desolder braid? Lead-Free Solder-Wick Desoldering Braid
 
was thinking of this for my cable: Mogami W2534 Brown
 
What diameter of techflex do you guys recommend with the W2534?
 
And So far i want to go with this plug: Neutrik NP3X-B X-Series 1/4in 3-Conductor Phone Plug Black and Gold
 
 
I know, alot of questions, but im completely new to recableing and want to do it right the first time! thanks for any suggestions
 
 

 

[liamstrain]

That all looks good. I use a soldering station similar to the weller - usually up around the 30-35 watt power range. Is your 100 watt adjustable? 
 
I tend to prefer the Mogami 2893 for recables - its a bit smaller overall diameter - which plays nicer with alot of connectors (including the Neutrik - the 2534 will work, but you will have to widen the boot a bit. 
 
Not sure what size techflex would work... I think I ordered the 1/8th last time - and that was fine for the 2893... a bit microphonic though. I think I won't be using it much. 

 

[darren700]

Quote:

That all looks good. I use a soldering station similar to the weller - usually up around the 30-35 watt power range. Is your 100 watt adjustable? 
 
I tend to prefer the Mogami 2893 for recables - its a bit smaller overall diameter - which plays nicer with alot of connectors (including the Neutrik - the 2534 will work, but you will have to widen the boot a bit. 
 
Not sure what size techflex would work... I think I ordered the 1/8th last time - and that was fine for the 2893... a bit microphonic though. I think I won't be using it much. 

Thanks for the advice, Unfortunately the weller is not adjustable, could i get away with the 25watt or is it not enough power?
I would like the larger diameter cable, i dont mind modifying the boot.
Isnt there another type of sleeving like techflex that doesnt have microphonics? I swear i remember reading about it but cant remember what its called
 
 

 

[cantsleep]

nylon multifilament sleevings
and how about just cardas solder / flux
 
have fun and make it neat 

 

[liamstrain]

techflex makes a "quiet" version. http://www.techflex.com/prod_NRN.asp
 
Many people also like cotton sleeving, or paracord sleeving. 
 
The mogami itself is pretty quiet too - sleeving may not be necessary. 

 

[nikongod]

If you can afford a regulated iron get one. Something in the 40-60W range should do you well, particularly if you have the 100W monster hanging around for when you need it. Buying nice tools only hurts the wallet once. Buying cheap tools sucks every time you use them, and often hurts the wallet twice.
 
Now that thats out there, Id say to start your recabling efforts on a cheaper headphone. It sounds like you have soldered before, but it never hurts to practice strain relief, making the Y-split, and all that stuff on something that you care about slightly less. 

 

[Avro_Arrow]

If you order from Markertek you are going to get hit with import duty (I did).
You might want to consider Take Five Audio and keep it in Canada...

 

[darren700]

Thanks again for the input all, I think i may just go with the bare Mogami wire without sleeving, as its available in brown (to match the D7000 cups).
I have a US shipping address and an uncle who brings stuff over for me (he lives in US but works in Canada). However i did not know that Take Five Audio was was in Canada, i will definitly look into ordering from them instead.

 

[darren700]

Quote:

If you can afford a regulated iron get one. Something in the 40-60W range should do you well, particularly if you have the 100W monster hanging around for when you need it. Buying nice tools only hurts the wallet once. Buying cheap tools sucks every time you use them, and often hurts the wallet twice.
 
Now that thats out there, Id say to start your recabling efforts on a cheaper headphone. It sounds like you have soldered before, but it never hurts to practice strain relief, making the Y-split, and all that stuff on something that you care about slightly less. 

 
I think i will splurge for the nice Weller soldering iron, it will come in handy for sure. Im not worried about strain relief or the y-split, thats pretty easy IMO. My main consern is de-soldering and soldering on the new wire without damaging the drivers, does anyone have some tips for these specific steps of the recable?

 

[hans030390]

Just a heads up, I had my D2000s recabled with Mogami 2534 cable (same length as stock), at it made them more sibilant and bright. It was a very noticeable change...too much for my ears.

 

[liamstrain]

Not to call your experience into question, Hans... but that doesn't make any sense at all. How would recabling (much less from one copper cable, to another copper cable), have that effect. 

 

[hans030390]

Quote:

Not to call your experience into question, Hans... but that doesn't make any sense at all. How would recabling (much less from one copper cable, to another copper cable), have that effect. 

I have no idea. I had my HD598s recabled and they basically sounded the same. The recabled D2000s sounded noticeably different, unless my ears completely forgot what they sounded like. But every other recable I've heard just sounds mostly the same (maybe some subtle refinement?)...but I definitely noticed a change in the D2000s. Like I said, I have no idea.
 

 

[SoItGoes]

Quote:

If you can afford a regulated iron get one. Something in the 40-60W range should do you well, particularly if you have the 100W monster hanging around for when you need it. Buying nice tools only hurts the wallet once. Buying cheap tools sucks every time you use them, and often hurts the wallet twice.
 
Now that thats out there, Id say to start your recabling efforts on a cheaper headphone. It sounds like you have soldered before, but it never hurts to practice strain relief, making the Y-split, and all that stuff on something that you care about slightly less. 

 
So I'm in a similar situation as the OP, but I'm a bit unsure as to what methods I could use to reinforce the y-split. I was planning on just reinforcing this portion with semi-rigid heatshrink. Does anyone know where I could get my hands on something a bit more sturdy (like some kind of metal sleeve/hard rubber mold to go on this part of the cable)?
 
 

 

[ajreynol]

I'm in the same position as the OP, but with a pair of D7000's that I'd like to recable with these:
 
http://www.jenalabs.com/buy-now/headphones-harness.html
 
I assume this cable would work?  So I'd only be looking for tips on the de-soldering process.