Computer audio upgrade path?
Jul 1, 2020 at 5:28 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 12

BNCole83

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Hi All,

I did a bit of research a few years back to start upgrading my audio gear but I'm at a bit of a loss on where to start now... My primary focus now is listening to music on my computer and I'm mostly streaming through Tidal Master quality. I tried searching google for computer soundcards but all I found was a bunch of consumer version branded stuff that I don't really trust is good quality.

If anyone could give me advice or point me in the right direction, that would be excellent.
Also, is there any issues with my motherboard sound card having a DAC and also using my ALPEN 2 DAC?

I currently have:
  1. Fiio E17K ALPEN 2 USB DAC
  2. Beyerdynamic DT880 PRO Headset - 250 OHM
  3. https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/z270-gaming-pro-carbon.html - I didn't realize but I guess it already comes with a 600 ohm DAC. The specs is a bunch of marketing language that I don't understand but it has this info if it means anything.
    1. 600 ohm DAC
    2. 120dB SNR / 32-bit
    3. Supports DSD Super Audio CD playback & recording (64x better than regular CD quality)
Thank you very much!
 
Jul 1, 2020 at 6:23 PM Post #2 of 12
No such thing as a 600-Ohm DAC.
MSI claims the Z270 will drive headphones up to 600-Ohms.
Your Z270 motherboard comes with a Realtek ALC 1220 DSP chip, that DSP chip also comes with a built in DAC function.
If you remove the FiiO E17K and plug the DT880 directly into the motherboard, how is the sound quality?
 
Jul 1, 2020 at 10:00 PM Post #3 of 12
No such thing as a 600-Ohm DAC.
MSI claims the Z270 will drive headphones up to 600-Ohms.
Your Z270 motherboard comes with a Realtek ALC 1220 DSP chip, that DSP chip also comes with a built in DAC function.
If you remove the FiiO E17K and plug the DT880 directly into the motherboard, how is the sound quality?
Ah, I see! Thank you very much for that information.

The sound quality seemed very similar with the Realtek chip. But slighlty less clean, I couldn't quite my finger on it why exactly it sounded different. But after a few hours listening on the Realtek my ears were starting to hurt. Like the sound started to "grate" my ears and I had to take a break. If that makes sense?

That's never happened with the Fios before and I've listened for longer durations. After I swapped back to the Fios my ears seemed happy and I listened for a few more hours after that.
 
Jul 1, 2020 at 10:32 PM Post #4 of 12
Ah, I see! Thank you very much for that information.
The sound quality seemed very similar with the Realtek chip. But slightly less clean, I couldn't quite my finger on it why exactly it sounded different. But after a few hours listening on the Realtek my ears were starting to hurt. Like the sound started to "grate" my ears and I had to take a break. If that makes sense?
That's never happened with the Fios before and I've listened for longer durations. After I swapped back to the Fios my ears seemed happy and I listened for a few more hours after that.
I would help to know your over all budget?
The 250-Ohm DT880 Pro headphones are fairly well balanced and slightly bright, is there something in that sound you want to change?
A more powerful headphone amplifier might improve the audio quality.
 
Jul 1, 2020 at 10:52 PM Post #5 of 12
I would help to know your over all budget?
The 250-Ohm DT880 Pro headphones are fairly well balanced and slightly bright, is there something in that sound you want to change?
A more powerful headphone amplifier might improve the audio quality.
Hmmm. I could spend another $500 right now. But definitely looking to be efficient with the spending.

I'm searching for a bit more clarity in the sound. I feel like when a lot of parts are playing sounds tend to get muddled. I really like overrall to get immersed in the sound and this usually happens when the sounds are very clear. Does this make sense? Is there a audio/techie word to describe what I'm looking for?
 
Jul 1, 2020 at 11:33 PM Post #6 of 12
Hmmm. I could spend another $500 right now. But definitely looking to be efficient with the spending.
I'm searching for a bit more clarity in the sound. I feel like when a lot of parts are playing sounds tend to get muddled. I really like overall to get immersed in the sound and this usually happens when the sounds are very clear. Does this make sense? Is there a audio/techie word to describe what I'm looking for?
A Schiit Fulla 3 ($100) DAC/amp comes with a better DAC chip and more powerful headphone amplifier, then the E17K.
Topping DX3 Pro DAC/amp ($225), dual DAC chips.
So maybe get a new DAC/amp, for now and use it with the DT880.
Then take your time searching for new headphones.
 
Jul 2, 2020 at 6:38 AM Post #7 of 12
A Schiit Fulla 3 ($100) DAC/amp comes with a better DAC chip and more powerful headphone amplifier, then the E17K.
Topping DX3 Pro DAC/amp ($225), dual DAC chips.
So maybe get a new DAC/amp, for now and use it with the DT880.
Then take your time searching for new headphones.
Great. So at this point a new computer sound card is pointless?

And, for my crappier work computers, would I see more benefit from a USB DAC/AMP? Wondering if perhaps I'm experiencing a bit of diminishing returns on the main rig.
 
Jul 2, 2020 at 9:33 AM Post #8 of 12
Great. So at this point a new computer sound card is pointless?

And, for my crappier work computers, would I see more benefit from a USB DAC/AMP? Wondering if perhaps I'm experiencing a bit of diminishing returns on the main rig.
Sound cards are good if your in need for headphone surround sound, otherwise a DAC/amp will do.
 
Jul 3, 2020 at 10:50 PM Post #9 of 12
I would go with an amplifier proper, such as the Magni 3 rather than the Fulla because I have found through experience that my Modi 2 Uber is a bottleneck in as much as I have swapped other DAC's behind the Magni 3 and got better sound (for my hearing and hardware, anyway) than the Modi 2. Even with your 250 Ohm headphones, you'd be in the ballpark of 500mW. There's a lot of that "Your headphones are XYZdB efficient and should only need ABmW to be ear deafeningly loud" going around. But in my experience this doesn't hold any water. My MDR-V700's can handle 3,000mW, but people always told me the previous line. I stuck with them, and one day found that with more power they blossom, they liven up and sound great! It took about 300mW for me to notice this fact, 600mW on another amplifier to see further difference, and my Magni 3 with approximately 2.5W on tap at the same impedance to see their real potential. Many headphone manufacturers aren't even listing maximum power-handling, these days. I don't know the reason for this, but I don't agree with it. People end up being mislead into believing their phones or sound cards will max out their audio experience.
 
Jul 9, 2020 at 7:20 PM Post #10 of 12
Your best use of cash would be to add an external amplifier to your Fiio DAC - a $100 unit will give you a decent step-up. Schiit offer great value for money at this price point - no frills, but good sound. As Logistics said, the Magni 3 will do the job and then some....The external amp will not only deliver more power into your cans, but will be capable of cleaner, faster dynamic shifts, which will make your headphones work at their full potential. As the car guys say, it's not just about top speed, it's also about acceleration and braking :D also, if you don't like it for any reason, it's a lot easier to sell on a used amp than a used soundcard.
 
Jul 11, 2020 at 12:09 AM Post #11 of 12
Ah, I see! Thank you very much for that information.

The sound quality seemed very similar with the Realtek chip. But slighlty less clean, I couldn't quite my finger on it why exactly it sounded different. But after a few hours listening on the Realtek my ears were starting to hurt. Like the sound started to "grate" my ears and I had to take a break. If that makes sense?

That's never happened with the Fios before and I've listened for longer durations. After I swapped back to the Fios my ears seemed happy and I listened for a few more hours after that.
Before you go throwing money at the problem, can you say what player you are using? What settings do you have? That pain with the Realtek could just be windoze resampling or some setting in the player. Its worth the effort to rule that out before spending dough. If it is a setting or even a driver, and you can get that clarity you may just be happy and save some dough.
 

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