[ClieOS]

...
Related to the vent system of MDR-282, is there something interesting about it?

Besides the small vents surrounding the back chamber, the main vent is in the strain relief itself. That's in the original E282 and also replicated in the metal shell.

 

[iFi audio]

Here's a preview of the next project: reproduction Sony MDR-E282 metal shell.

If I may ask, are there any specific sonic goals you want to meet with this design?

 

[ClieOS]

If I may ask, are there any specific sonic goals you want to meet with this design?

Just to be clear, I didn't make this shell. It comes as a DIY kit, made by the same guy who makes the AIWA V55 kit that I previously posted about. Like the V55 kit, this is designed to replace the original E282 shell by replicating the original design as much as possible but can be used for any 16mm driver that can fit inside. I am actually still hunting for a suitable driver as the shell itself is rather shallow on the back chamber (which is what the original is) and therefore most of 16 mm drivers I have will not fit inside. While the old Sony driver of the era will fit, they are generally very difficult to source and also super expensive.

 

[furyossa]

Just to be clear, I didn't make this shell. It comes as a DIY kit, made by the same guy who makes the AIWA V55 kit that I previously posted about. Like the V55 kit, this is designed to replace the original E282 shell by replicating the original design as much as possible but can be used for any 16mm driver that can fit inside. I am actually still hunting for a suitable driver as the shell itself is rather shallow on the back chamber (which is what the original is) and therefore most of 16 mm drivers I have will not fit inside. While the old Sony driver of the era will fit, they are generally very difficult to source and also super expensive.

Yeah, that's the big problem. Old drivers have more holes (around 21) on back side, so more airflow, and IMO they definitely are more suitable for shallow shells.
New drivers are thicker (bigger magnet) and require more room to breathe. Anyway ... Sony / Aiwa shell look so cool and it's really nice to have the opportunity to play with them

 

[iFi audio]

Just to be clear, I didn't make this shell. It comes as a DIY kit, made by the same guy who makes the AIWA V55 kit that I previously posted about. Like the V55 kit, this is designed to replace the original E282 shell by replicating the original design as much as possible but can be used for any 16mm driver that can fit inside. I am actually still hunting for a suitable driver as the shell itself is rather shallow on the back chamber (which is what the original is) and therefore most of 16 mm drivers I have will not fit inside. While the old Sony driver of the era will fit, they are generally very difficult to source and also super expensive.

Thanks for explaining and this may be a silly question, but what is the main appeal of these vintage earbuds to begin with? I've never heard any of these so am curious

Here I assume that these are high-quality earbuds, so stuff for folks not into IEMs, but maybe there are other factors?

 

[ClieOS]

Thanks for explaining and this may be a silly question, but what is the main appeal of these vintage earbuds to begin with? I've never heard any of these so am curious

Here I assume that these are high-quality earbuds, so stuff for folks not into IEMs, but maybe there are other factors?

I'll say a big part of it is because of the nostalgic factor. I grew up in the time of walkman / Discman and earbuds before IEM is even a thing, so at least for some of my generation of audiophiles, earbuds used to be the gear for portable listening, much like there are still people who think vinyl is better than digital audio. Many of these vintage earbuds were the subject of much desire at a time when online shopping didn't exist and they were generally very hard to come by outside of major cities, so obscurity with time creates the demand, amplified by the resurgent of earbuds users in the recent decade. I don't necessarily think these vintage earbuds are better in SQ than what we have in the market now, as these days we have access to much better materials and manufacturing tech, but it is hard to argue to an audiophile finally having a piece of gear that (s)he has dreamed of since many years ago.

 

[iFi audio]

I'll say a big part of it is because of the nostalgic factor

Ach, so that's the reason and motivator! Good to know, really, and thanks for explaining. For a second there I thought that earbuds had some special properties to be extracted in specific conditions only few people know about. But then again, notsalgia is a nice reason too, if not better. Enjoy the ride, I'll be watching this space and thank you

 

[C4PPY]

Do you have more info on the cables you did for the Go Pods?

 

[ClieOS]

Do you have more info on the cables you did for the Go Pods?

With my GO Pod sudden demise after firmware update and no easy way for warranty, I don't see much use for writing about it anymore. The only thing I do think that is important to remember is to test the pin-out on the adapter themselves as one side is actually in reverse in polarity of what considered to be usual (*for most 0.75mm / 0.78mm IEM, the pin facing forward is usually ground)

 

[vilders]

Despite being a very expensive BT adapter, It is somewhat of a known issue among a few 1st batch iFi Go Blu users that it doesn't have a particularly good Bluetooth range, especially when using LDAC codec. Quite often, distortion or disconnection can happen with only a meter or two away, or simply just putting the BT adapter on the other side of the pocket from the smartphone. iFi, though knows about the issue as it has been reported by multiple first batch users, never does acknowledge the issue officially nor provide any remedy. Report however had been made that, for those who returned their first batch Go Blu due to various reasons and got a replacement from 2nd batch, the range issue seems to have been fixed secretly (*allegedly). But for those of us who can't return our 1st batch Go Blu due to various circumstances, it would seen that we are stuck with a less-than-fully-useful BT adapter - and that is exactly my situation. To address the issue, I decided to do a antenna swap by replacing the original chip antenna used in the Go Blu with something hopefully much better. Warning: This will most definitely void your warranty! iFi Go Blu dissembled


Tools and parts needed:
1) iFi Go Blu 1st batch with weak BT range
2) Abracon ACAG0801-2450-T chip antenna
3) Basic soldering supply
4) Basic smartphone disassembling tool




The Go Blu's metal faceplate can be removed by lightly prying it away from the main body as it is double=glued only on the lower part. Once removed, you will find two screws that needed to be removed to take the housing apart.


The battery is also double-glued to the PCB and can be removed by careful prying it up.


Disconnect the battery once it is lifted up, removed the two button on each side, then remove the two screws near the Type-C connector. Once the screws are removed, the PCB can be lifted up from the top, near the headphone sockets. The dial can be detached once the PCB comes out.


Located on the under side of the PCB, near where the dial is supposed to be and opposite to where the Xbass / Xspace button, is the chip antenna. It is the only white component on the PCB so it is easily recognizable, measuring 9.5mm x 2mm x 1mm. I can't tell which brand or model of chip antenna it is as it doesn't have any marking on it, but searching for chip antenna that fits the dimension and build has resulted in several candidates that have either 1dBi or 2dBi gain. In order to maximize the chance of improving the odd that the new antenna will outperform the original antenna, i picked the Abracon ACAG0801-2450-T as it has an exceptional high gain of 7.3dBi while won't cause any fit issue (8mm x 1mm x 1mm). You can find this chip antenna on either element14 or Mouser.


The ideal way to desolder such a large component will be the use of hot air station. But if you don't have access to one, the next easiest way to use low melt solder, and that's how I did it. Check out youtube if you want to know how to use low melt solder for desoldering.


Clean up the low melt solder with wick and solder the new antenna in place. Though the new antenna is shorter (8mm vs. 9.5mm), it should still just about fit. Take note of the direction. Finally, reassemble the Go Blu.

Here are the RSSI test I did before and after antenna swap with FiiO BTR7 as reference. Lower (less negative) is better and the three number were taken with both devices (1) about 2 inches away from the smartphone, (2) about 2 meters away and (3) about 5 meters away with wall in-between.

Before:
FiiO BTR7 -37 -68 -75
iFi Go Blu -39 -78 -93

After:
FiiO BTR7 -40 -69 -85
iFi Go Blu -33 -67 -81

From the 'before' test, we can tell the original Go Blu suffered a huge drop in signal strength just 2 meters away (*10dB = 10 times of difference). The 'after' test clearly shows vast improvement with Go Blu even outperforming BTR7 on all range. All and all, the antenna swap is an resounding success that allow the 1st batch Go Blu to finally perform as it should have been.

Afterthought: Regardless of how or why the 1st batch Go Blu suffered from weak BT range, I think the placement of the chip antenna on the PCB itself is not helping. It is on the under side of the PCB, which means (1) many user are likely going to place it right against their body, (2) the PCB's ground plane, (3) the big metal piece on the housing, (4) the mostly metal volume dial as well as (5) the metal button next to the antenna are all boxing the antenna in and obstructing the wireless signal path.

Hello
Can you tell the model of the qualcomm bluetooth chip in the photo? Because there is no information about it anywhere, except that it is a series 5100...

 

[ClieOS]

Hello
Can you tell the model of the qualcomm bluetooth chip in the photo? Because there is no information about it anywhere, except that it is a series 5100...

Pretty sure it is QCC5125

 

[WoodyLuvr]

Hello
Can you tell the model of the qualcomm bluetooth chip in the photo? Because there is no information about it anywhere, except that it is a series 5100...

QCC5125

Concur, as if not mistaken only the 5125 offers BT 5.1 in the 5100 series:

https://www.qualcomm.com/products/internet-of-things/consumer/audio/qcc5100-series/qcc5125

https://www.qualcomm.com/products/internet-of-things/consumer/audio/qcc5100-series


BTW: This is one of my all-time favorite threads anywhere on the webs. Each and every time I see a post alert for this very special thread I get giddy with excitement, in hopeful anticipation to see another new DIY project.

 

[vilders]

Pretty sure it is QCC5125

Thank you very much for your reply! I wonder if this chipset supports the new aptx lossless format, which may be updated in the future

 

[WoodyLuvr]

Thank you very much for your reply! I wonder if this chipset supports the new aptx lossless format, which may be updated in the future

It should as QCC5125 is their only active chipset and it is packaged with both aptX HD and aptX Adaptive...

"... To deliver lossless audio quality (aptX Lossless), Qualcomm has enhanced wireless connectivity to work with a portion of its audio technology from aptX Adaptive and aptX HD..."

 

[ClieOS]

BTW: This is one of my all-time favorite threads anywhere on the webs. Each and every time I see a post alert for this very special thread I get giddy with excitement, in hopeful anticipation to see another new DIY project.

Next project is DIY Sony E282 metal shell rebuild using vintage Sony drivers, so it should be right up your alley. Still waiting for last pair of drivers to come though (international shipping is super slow these days), so probably another 3~4 weeks.