[iFi audio]

I look forward to hearing impressions.

Same here, it's a very ambitious non-mainstream project and it's very cool seeing how it comest to life. I hope that I'll be able to hear these earbuds one day.

 

[AsciiJC]

Well well well, look at that, its the planar buds!

Bass:
Limp bass, but can be helped with eq'ing it up a notch. Don't expect any slam, though its nice with EQ!

Mids:
Pretty good! Theyre clear and vocals aren't distant or anything, nice and enjoyable.

Treble:
Somehow clie managed to tame these VERY well, and I applaud him for it. I was expecting a bit of sibalence but nothing here! Its clear and extends very well. Now there are timbre issues and with some things not being as well presented, but it should definitely not be an issue for many.

Techs are really good too, i forgot to add that here but these do staging pretty nice.

I didn't want to be critical because this is literally the first of its kind to the public, but I have to say, clie you did a wonderful job here! I plan to take these to canjam 2023 london with a few other buds of mine to my friends, so I can get more impressions on these lovely things.

 

[Mr.HiAudio]

Limp bass

needed a half-opened back panel in housing Maybe make a 2-3 hole via drill

 

[iFi audio]

Limp bass, but can be helped with eq'ing it up a notch. Don't expect any slam, though its nice with EQ!

I'm wondering now how much that could potentially improve if these earbuds had rubber tips instead of foamy ends. And if so, how much that alone would impact everything above bass.

And yes, I'm aware that this is the earbud thread, but still had to ask

 

[Mr.HiAudio]

above bass.

the bass is affected by the acoustic chamber, and quite strongly

 

[iFi audio]

the bass is affected by the acoustic chamber, and quite strongly

I just saw that GitHub link, it explains a lot. Thanks!

 

[vola]

Done.

Pretty amazing sounding, if I say so myself.

hello clie. that awesome, can i buy this.

 

[ClieOS]

needed a half-opened back panel in housing Maybe make a 2-3 hole via drill

While dampened, the back chamber of the earbud is technically still vented. During my various experiment, simply drilling a few holes on the back chamber will not in anyway change the bass quantity significantly.

hello clie. that awesome, can i buy this.

Sorry, no.

 

[ClieOS]

Here are two relatively simple fixes:

First: Alessandro MS1 transducer magnet dislodgement fix
Grado, which also makes Alessandro, is known to have shoddy workmanship in their headphone construction and often being seen as part of its 'old school charm'. So it is not that surprising when someone on a local headphone forum reached out to me last year asking for help to fix his MS-1 that has suddenly lost its right channel. I took the headphone in and immediately saw two common Grado issues - (1) the magnet on the right driver has dislodged from the driver itself, and (2) the right driver housing was broken from the headband at the pivot. It was like the two issues were related as the driver housing must had dropped on the ground causing the dislodgement of the magnet when the housing was broken from the headband. Of course, Grado known to use weak glue to secure the magnet isn't helping either.

Tools and parts needed:
1) Hot air gun, or hair dryer as alternative
2) Headphone glue (i.e. B7000), super glue and hot glue.

You can tell from the grill that the magnet has dislodged as the copper coil is clearly visible,

The driver housing is glued together by Grado using hot glue, which means a hot air gun can easily soften the old glue enough to take them apart. Carefu not to overheat the plastic housing and cause it to deform. You can see on the picture below, the magnet is still holding on to the backside by just a thread.. To do this properly, I actually remove the magnet from the back completely to remove all the old glue residue from not just the magnet but also the hot glue on the housing itself.

With all the cleaning up done and making sure no debris/dust in-between the diaphragm and copper coil, the magnet is glued back using B7000 glue around the edge of the magnet. Do make sure the coil is properly aligned into the magnet. Once the B7000 glue is sufficiently dried, I place a few tiny drop of super glue on the seam to make sure the magnet will be extra secured.

Once I tested to be sure the right driver has came back to life, I hot glued the housing back. Hot glue is not really the best method to put headphone together, but at least it will make taking them aprt fairly easy in the future as well. After the housing is glued together, I super glued the headband back to the pivot. It is important that you use really good quality super glue as the pivot area is a very common failure point on most Grado. My preferred choice of super glue is from ERGO Switzerland.

Afterthought: The fix is itself a completely success with the MS-1 going back to fully functional. However, given the chance I would have also preferred to (1) rebuild / reinforce the left driver's magnet with a tiny bit of super glue, consider that its glue is probably degraded as well, and (2) change the whole headband + pivot altogether. However, given it is not my headphone and the owner decided a working headphone is more than enough, I ended up sending the MS-1 back to him as it is.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Second: Sony WF-1000XM4 battery replacement
I got my WF-1000XM4 as soon as it was launched back in mid 2021, and as many early XM4 owner (*and perhaps also applied to most TWS owner) would know that the batteries, especially the one inside the earpiece, does degrade quite noticeably after a year or two. For me, it becomes a big issues about a month ago when I noticed both my XM4 earpiece have degraded to such a point that they can only last for 10~15 minutes before completely drained (*and ironically, just before Sony released a new firmware that should help to prolong / preserve the battery life). The good news is that replacing battery on XM4 is far easier than than of Airpod, requiring no soldering or any sophisticated technique / skill. I also opt to install a new battery for the charging case though the original battery seems to still function normally. Note that XM4 battery replacement guide / video can be found all over the place, so I am not going to write a detailed guide but just focus on what I think is important point

Tools and parts needed:
1) Replacement batteries (*for the earpiece, ZeniPower Z55H is stock replacement, VARTA CP1254 could also work in theory. For case battery, I opt for Cameron Sino - *See Note 1 Below)
2) A small vise and padding materials.
3) Glue, and recommending G-S Hypo Cement
4) Smartphone repair tool kit, naming a plastics guitar pick, small screw driver, and an insulated tweezer.

Note 1: While Cameron Sino is one of the more reputable battery brand in China, I found out that Sony has built some kind of protection circuit into the battery case that will prevents replacement battery from fully functioning. The battery I got has no problem recharging the earpiece, but it has issue when it comes to charging the battery itself from USB. I end up putting back the original case battery a few days later because the Cameron Sino battery isn't working consistently. There are still some alleged 'original' XM4 case battery that you can purchase from Aliexpress, but I am not sure how legitimate those are. For now, the guide to replace the case battery is still included just in case someone does want to learn about how to replace the battery and has a working stock battery at hand.

First, this is a technique I learned from a Japanese youtuber video on how to literally pop open the earpiece. Most other seems to advise using hot air to lightly heat up the earpieces then prying it open on the seam. But I find the Japanese technique is even better by using a small vise, but besure to use some padding material in order not to scratch the housing. Place the earpiece in the vise and VERY slowly clamp it together till you hear a faint popping sound, then immediately loose the vise. You should notice the seam has opened up slightly and you can use the guitar pick to pry them open.

Note in the picture below that there is a flex wire connecting the two half so you will need to disconnect it before pulling the two apart. BTW, the replacement ZeniPower Z55H battery I got from Aliexpress don't quite look 100% identical (especially on the marking) to the stock batteries I pulled from XM4, which bakes the question on whether these replacements are genuine ZeniPower or not. They do however function normally regardless. Please refer to youtube video on how to pull the battery out, just note take you should do it slowly as to not damage the double sided tape since you need to reuse them to hold the new battery back into the original position.

Once the new battery are installed on both earpieces, put them back into the charging case to see if them will charge and function normally before you seal the earpiece's two half back together. To seal the earpiece off and get back some water resistance, glue mush be used. While any headphone glue can be used, I find G-S Hypo Cement to be excellent in this area as it allows for very precise application with just a tiny amount to get the job done. You don't want to put too much glue in as there is a possibility that we might need to replace the battery again in a year or two. With G-S, just applies a tiny amount all around the edge, then clamping the earpieces down in the vise for a solid 30 minutes or so should be enough. I do recommend you leave them in the vise longer if you can.

Below is the battery for the changing case,

The charging cradle is held insides the case with just 4 internal clips as indicated with the arrows. Push the guitar pick from seam in the front (as shown in picture) to pop the clip, then slowly work you way around the edge / body to the back to pop the clip on the opposite side. Then repeat the process on the other side.

Here is another way to see those 4 clips once the cradle is removed.

Now you can remove the 2 screw that hold the top cover. Technically you don't need to remove it if you don't want to, but I find it easier to replace the battery when the top cover is not in the way,.

Next, disconnect the battery first (*the white connector in picture below). The battery itself is sandwiched between the bottom plastic frame and a grayish cover, where they are hold to the top plastic frame with just 4 clips (two are indicated by arrows below). Pop those clip and the bottom frame along with battery section will fall down. ,

DO NOTE that the wireless charging coil underneath the bottom frame is still attached to the top as it is soldered to the PCB on the top frame. With careful handling, you shouldn't need to remove the coil to access the battery.

Battery cover can be popped out easily, but the battery itself is double taped to the bottom frame. The bottom frame is super soft so you can't put too much force on it. My suggestion is to use the guitar pick to slowly pry the battery up from the double sided tape.

Once the old battery is out, I will suggest you plug the new battery into the connector temporarily to test if charging (including charging the case as well as charging the earpieces) is working or not before attempting on putting everything back together. Once testing is done, disconnect the battery again and start to putting the whole thing back in reverse.

Connect the battery last and do a final testing before pushing the charging cradle back into the case. Then you are all done.

Afterthought: As sophisticated as it looks, WF-1000XM4's batteries are surprisingly easy to replace. I charged the reborn XM4 overnight and used it for a few days, and it would seems it works almost as good as when it was new. Hopefully I'll get a few more years out of it before another battery replacement is required.

 

[iFi audio]

Here are two relatively simple fixes:

First: Alessandro MS1 transducer magnet dislodgement fix
Grado, which also makes Alessandro, is known to have shoddy workmanship in their headphone construction and often being seen as part of its 'old school charm'. So it is not that surprising when someone on a local headphone forum reached out to me last year asking for help to fix his MS-1 that has suddenly lost its right channel. I took the headphone in and immediately saw two common Grado issues - (1) the magnet on the right driver has dislodged from the driver itself, and (2) the right driver housing was broken from the headband at the pivot. It was like the two issues were related as the driver housing must had dropped on the ground causing the dislodgement of the magnet when the housing was broken from the headband. Of course, Grado known to use weak glue to secure the magnet isn't helping either.

Tools and parts needed:
1) Hot air gun, or hair dryer as alternative
2) Headphone glue (i.e. B7000), super glue and hot glue.



You can tell from the grill that the magnet has dislodged as the copper coil is clearly visible,



The driver housing is glued together by Grado using hot glue, which means a hot air gun can easily soften the old glue enough to take them apart. Carefu not to overheat the plastic housing and cause it to deform. You can see on the picture below, the magnet is still holding on to the backside by just a thread.. To do this properly, I actually remove the magnet from the back completely to remove all the old glue residue from not just the magnet but also the hot glue on the housing itself.



With all the cleaning up done and making sure no debris/dust in-between the diaphragm and copper coil, the magnet is glued back using B7000 glue around the edge of the magnet. Do make sure the coil is properly aligned into the magnet. Once the B7000 glue is sufficiently dried, I place a few tiny drop of super glue on the seam to make sure the magnet will be extra secured.



Once I tested to be sure the right driver has came back to life, I hot glued the housing back. Hot glue is not really the best method to put headphone together, but at least it will make taking them aprt fairly easy in the future as well. After the housing is glued together, I super glued the headband back to the pivot. It is important that you use really good quality super glue as the pivot area is a very common failure point on most Grado. My preferred choice of super glue is from ERGO Switzerland.



Afterthought: The fix is itself a completely success with the MS-1 going back to fully functional. However, given the chance I would have also preferred to (1) rebuild / reinforce the left driver's magnet with a tiny bit of super glue, consider that its glue is probably degraded as well, and (2) change the whole headband + pivot altogether. However, given it is not my headphone and the owner decided a working headphone is more than enough, I ended up sending the MS-1 back to him as it is.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Second: Sony WF-1000XM4 battery replacement
I got my WF-1000XM4 as soon as it was launched back in mid 2021, and as many early XM4 owner (*and perhaps also applied to most TWS owner) would know that the batteries, especially the one inside the earpiece, does degrade quite noticeably after a year or two. For me, it becomes a big issues about a month ago when I noticed both my XM4 earpiece have degraded to such a point that they can only last for 10~15 minutes before completely drained (*and ironically, just before Sony released a new firmware that should help to prolong / preserve the battery life). The good news is that replacing battery on XM4 is far easier than than of Airpod, requiring no soldering or any sophisticated technique / skill. I also opt to install a new battery for the charging case though the original battery seems to still function normally. Note that XM4 battery replacement guide / video can be found all over the place, so I am not going to write a detailed guide but just focus on what I think is important point

Tools and parts needed:
1) Replacement batteries (*for the earpiece, ZeniPower Z55H is stock replacement, VARTA CP1254 could also work in theory. For case battery, I opt for Cameron Sino)
2) A small vise and padding materials.
3) Glue, and recommending G-S Hypo Cement
4) Smartphone repair tool kit, naming a plastics guitar pick, small screw driver, and an insulated tweezer.

First, this is a technique I learned from a Japanese youtuber video on how to literally pop open the earpiece. Most other seems to advise using hot air to lightly heat up the earpieces then prying it open on the seam. But I find the Japanese technique is even better by using a small vise, but besure to use some padding material in order not to scratch the housing. Place the earpiece in the vise and VERY slowly clamp it together till you hear a faint popping sound, then immediately loose the vise. You should notice the seam has opened up slightly and you can use the guitar pick to pry them open.



Note in the picture below that there is a flex wire connecting the two half so you will need to disconnect it before pulling the two apart. BTW, the replacement ZeniPower Z55H battery I got from Aliexpress don't quite look 100% identical (especially on the marking) to the stock batteries I pulled from XM4, which bakes the question on whether these replacements are genuine ZeniPower or not. They do however function normally regardless. Please refer to youtube video on how to pull the battery out, just note take you should do it slowly as to not damage the double sided tape since you need to reuse them to hold the new battery back into the original position.



Once the new battery are installed on both earpieces, put them back into the charging case to see if them will charge and function normally before you seal the earpiece's two half back together. To seal the earpiece off and get back some water resistance, glue mush be used. While any headphone glue can be used, I find G-S Hypo Cement to be excellent in this area as it allows for very precise application with just a tiny amount to get the job done. You don't want to put too much glue in as there is a possibility that we might need to replace the battery again in a year or two. With G-S, just applies a tiny amount all around the edge, then clamping the earpieces down in the vise for a solid 30 minutes or so should be enough. I do recommend you leave them in the vise longer if you can.



Below is the battery for the changing case,



The charging cradle is held insides the case with just 4 internal clips as indicated with the arrows. Push the guitar pick from seam in the front (as shown in picture) to pop the clip, then slowly work you way around the edge / body to the back to pop the clip on the opposite side. Then repeat the process on the other side.



Here is another way to see those 4 clips once the cradle is removed.



Now you can remove the 2 screw that hold the top cover. Technically you don't need to remove it if you don't want to, but I find it easier to replace the battery when the top cover is not in the way,.



Next, disconnect the battery first (*the white connector in picture below). The battery itself is sandwiched between the bottom plastic frame and a grayish cover, where they are hold to the top plastic frame with just 4 clips (two are indicated by arrows below). Pop those clip and the bottom frame along with battery section will fall down. ,



DO NOTE that the wireless charging coil underneath the bottom frame is still attached to the top as it is soldered to the PCB on the top frame. With careful handling, you shouldn't need to remove the coil to access the battery.



Battery cover can be popped out easily, but the battery itself is double taped to the bottom frame. The bottom frame is super soft so you can't put too much force on it. My suggestion is to use the guitar pick to slowly pry the battery up from the double sided tape.



Once the old battery is out, I will suggest you plug the new battery into the connector temporarily to test if charging (including charging the case as well as charging the earpieces) is working or not before attempting on putting everything back together. Once testing is done, disconnect the battery again and start to putting the whole thing back in reverse.



Connect the battery last and do a final testing before pushing the charging cradle back into the case. Then you are all done.



Afterthought: As sophisticated as it looks, WF-1000XM4's batteries are surprisingly easy to replace. I charged the reborn XM4 overnight and used it for a few days, and it would seems it works almost as good as when it was new. Hopefully I'll get a few more years out of it before another battery replacement is required.

As usual, awesome stuff @ClieOS, thanks for sharing!

 

[ClieOS]

AIWA HP-V55 reproduction shell Kit Build

A long story short - a fellow earbud lover in China needed to repair his aging Aiwa V55 earbud due to shell plastic degradation, but decided to recreate the shell in metal since he has access to a metal fabrication shop for his business. The metal housing isn't an 100% one-to-one copy since it is impractical to recreate the molded plastic housing using metal and CNC process, so some internal modification has to be made but he tried to keep it as functional as original as possible. He then offered the result as both DIY kit as well as finished products (not using original Aiwa V55 drivers since those are hard to find and usually super expensive).

Tools and parts needed:
1) V55 shell DIY kit, can only be found on Taobao.
2) a pair of 14.8mm dynamic transducer (slightly larger and smaller drivers can be fitted, though more difficult).
3) Old school cable with 1.5mm OD wire.
4) Glue, recommending G-S Hypo Cement or something similar
5) Soldering supply
6) Possibly front metal grill for the drivers, depends on how you want to build the kit

The above is what came with the V55 shell kit: (from the left) transparent plastic films, foam damper, driver bracket, rubber rings, strain relief, main housing, tail metal bracket. The brass 'bass pipes' and their holder, as seen in the picture, should have been inserted into the main housing already. You can however remove them from the main housing if you are really curious. Together, the brass bass pipe, their holder and the transparent film will form an U-shaped acoustic vent to improve the bass performance of almost any driver.

The first thing to do is installing the foam damper and trans parent film. The foam go into the small slot in the main housing, and the film goes to the long slot next to it. I'll suggest some glue all around the edge not only to hold them in place but to make sure the film has an good air seal in order to form the long vent. What you can't see in the picture is there is a small hole next to the small slot so the air can go in, all the way to one brass pipe, make an U-turn and go back up from the other brass pipe to a small hole just underneath the transparent film, then get vented out. This whole assembly is the bass pipe.

Next, we need to prepare the driver - 14.8mm is what the original V55 has and it is the most common diameter found on Aiwa earbuds of that era. The actual V55 driver or any of the famed Aiwa driver will be very difficult to find and possibly going to be super costly if you did find them. You don't of course need to use the original driver. If you insist of using Aiwa driver, the much cheaper V041 / V051 / V061 can also be used, though they are not nearly as highly regarded as something like V55. The driver in the picture above is the tungsten plated driver used in Senf*r PT2021, which happens to be 14.8mm. There are example of people also successfully using 15.4mm driver, but getting it fitted securely is more difficult and gluing might be the only way to do it. I personally prefer 'naked mounting' - by removing the driver from its original plastic grill, place it under a third party metal grill and hold them in the main housing using the included rubber ring. This is more of a flexible mounting as it allows future modification to be carried out with ease. Do note that sourcing metal grill might not be the easiest and it could require you to destroy other driver just to harvest its grill.

Before final assembly, you will also need to source a cable. To keep it as original looking as possible, the cable that can be used is limited to about 1.5mm due to the small opening on the shell. I used some leftover Cresyn cable from previous project. It is not that easy to find great quality cable in the 1.5mm range, so recycling old earbud for cable might be the only logical way forward. Last but not least, I glued the driver bucket in place as you can see in the picture - it is mainly meant to be used with Aiwa driver, as other driver might not actually fit or need the bucket. It is kind of optional to use - in my case, it serves no actual function but I installed it in anyway. Once the cable is in place, tie a knot inside to stop cable from getting yelled out by accident. The knot should be as close to the driver as possible, but leave enough length so it will function properly. Last reminder - remember to put the tail bracket and strain relief onto the cable before putting the cable into the main housing.

Now the only thing left to do is have the cable solder to the driver and mount the driver up to the housing (or glue the driver with plastic grill to the main housing if that's the route you took). Push the strain relief into the tail bucket, then the tail bucket into the main housing - then you are all done. It is time to enjoy the music.

Afterthought: This is overall a super easy kit to build and offers some of the best sound of any earbuds' housing out there. Of course, the choice of 14.8mm driver are much more limited when compared to the more mainstream 15.4mm drivers, but this V55 shell often does bring out the best of any 14.8mm you can fit into it, making it a very worthy endeavor. The kit is not cheap, around US$46 or so on Taobao before shipping cost. However, with the right driver, you can expect it to perform as the same level as earbuds costing double to triple its cost. Overall, the build is a great success and I can easily recommend all earbud lover to give this a try.

 

[FranQL]

Oh, tengo el pt2021, pero desafortunadamente no puedo comprar en taobao, si pudiera lo haría sin dudarlo.

Muchas gracias por compartir

 

[iFi audio]

AIWA HP-V55 reproduction shell Kit Build

A long story short - a fellow earbud lover in China needed to repair his aging Aiwa V55 earbud due to shell plastic degradation, but decided to recreate the shell in metal since he has access to a metal fabrication shop for his business. The metal housing isn't an 100% one-to-one copy since it is impractical to recreate the molded plastic housing using metal and CNC process, so some internal modification has to be made but he tried to keep it as functional as original as possible. He then offered the result as both DIY kit as well as finished products (not using original Aiwa V55 drivers since those are hard to find and usually super expensive).

Tools and parts needed:
1) V55 shell DIY kit, can only be found on Taobao.
2) a pair of 14.8mm dynamic transducer (slightly larger and smaller drivers can be fitted, though more difficult).
3) Old school cable with 1.5mm OD wire.
4) Glue, recommending G-S Hypo Cement or something similar
5) Soldering supply
6) Possibly front metal grill for the drivers, depends on how you want to build the kit


The above is what came with the V55 shell kit: (from the left) transparent plastic films, foam damper, driver bracket, rubber rings, strain relief, main housing, tail metal bracket. The brass 'bass pipes' and their holder, as seen in the picture, should have been inserted into the main housing already. You can however remove them from the main housing if you are really curious. Together, the brass bass pipe, their holder and the transparent film will form a U-shaped acoustic vent to improve the bass performance of almost any drivers.



The first thing to do is installing the foam damper and trans parent film. The foam go into the small slot in the main housing, and the film goes to the long slot next to it. I'll suggest some glue all around the edge not only to hold them in place but to make sure the film has an good air seal in order to form the long vent. What you can't see in the picture is there is a small hole next to the small slot so the air can go in, all the way to one brass pipe, make an U-turn and go back up from the other brass pipe to a small hole just underneath the transparent film, then get vented out. This whole assembly is the bass pipe.



Next, we need to prepare the driver - 14.8mm is what the original V55 has and it is the most common diameter found on Aiwa earbuds' of that era. The actual V55 driver or any of the famed Aiwa driver will be very difficult to find and possibly going to be super costly if you did find them. You don't of course need to use the original driver. If you insist of using Aiwa driver, the much cheaper V041 / V051 / V061 can also be used, though they are not nearly as highly regarded as something like V55. The driver in the picture above is the tungsten plated driver used in Senf*r PT2021, which happens to be 14.8mm. There are example of people also sucessfully using 15.4mm driver, but getting it fitted securely is more difficult and gluing might be the only way to do it. I personally prefer 'naked mounting' - by removing the driver from its original plastic grill, place it under a third party metal grill and hold them in the main housing using the included rubber ring. This is more of a flexible mounting as it allows future modification to be carried out with ease. Do note that sourcing metal gril might not be the easiest and it could require you to destroy other driver just to havest its grill..




Before final assembly, you will also need to source a cable. To keep it as original looking as possible, the cable that can be used is limited to about 1.5mm due tot he small opening on the shell. I used some leftover Cresyn cable from previous project. It is not that easy to find great quality cable in the 1.5mm range, so recycling old earbud for cable might be the only logical way forward. Last but not least, I glue the driver bucket in place as you can see in the picture - it is mainly meant to be used with Aiwa driver, as other driver might not actually fit or need the bucket. It is kind of optional to use - in my case, it serves no actual function but I installed it in anyway. Once the cable is in place, tie a knot inside to stop cable from getting yelled out by accident. The know should be as close to the driver as possible, but leave enough length so it will function properly. Last reminder - remember to put the tail bracket and strain relief onto the cable before putting the cable into the main housing.



Now the only thing left to do is have the cable solder to the driver and mount the driver up to the housing (or glue the driver with palustric grill to the main housing if that's the route you took). Puch the strain relief into the tail bucket, then the tail bucket into the main housing - then you are all done. It is time to enjoy the music.

Afterthought: This is overall a super easy kit to build and offer some of the best sound of any earbuds' housing out there. Of course, the choice of 14.8mm driver are much more limited when compared to the more mainstream 15.4mm drivers, but this V55 shell often does bring out the best of any 14.8mm you can fit into it, making it a very worthy endeavor. The kit is not cheap, around US$46 or so on Taobao before sny shipping cost. However, with the right driver, you can expect it to perform as the same level as earbuds costing double to triple its cost. Overall, the build is a great success and I can easily recommend all earbud lover to give this a try.

Resourceful as always, thanks

 

[ClieOS]

Here's a preview of the next project: reproduction Sony MDR-E282 metal shell.

 

[furyossa]

Here's a preview of the next project: reproduction Sony MDR-E282 metal shell.

I'm a huge fan of old-schools stuff, especially AIWA.
A few years ago, I replaced the driver and cable on HP-v151. This shell has one of the best fit that I tried so far and it's compatible with 15.4mm drivers.
The only drawback of the these vintage shells are the very cheap plastic that is very brittle. Also, the inner space of the shell is very shallow, so it does not offer a wide range of possibilities for modding.

Related to the vent system of MDR-282, is there something interesting about it?