[amb]

I don' recommend sockets for the output transistors.  That's a disaster waiting to happen (it might lose contact) and could fry your headphones.  Just solder the transistors to the board after making sure you got the orientation right.
 
I am not sure what you're trying to do for the switches.  If you want an input selector for two sources, and output selector for two pairs of headphones, then all you need is two DPDT switches.  You don't need to switch the ground at all.
 

 

[WC Annihilus]

For the output, I'm having a set of RCA pre-amp outputs, so I'm just trying to follow the suggestion you made in post 7 to avoid noise floating.

 

[amb]

Quote:

For the output, I'm having a set of RCA pre-amp outputs, so I'm just trying to follow the suggestion you made in post 7 to avoid noise floating.

OK, so just use the diagram I posted there for the output selector and a 4PDT switch.  The "grounds" in that diagram all refer to OG.

 

[WC Annihilus]

Well I managed to do something stupid... I soldered on the 3P and 5P headers and receptacles onto my Gamma2 board to test the Gamma1 without checking against the Gamma1 board first and ended up with them swapped.  (In truth I may have actually done the Gamma1 wrong, but it shouldn't matter as long as they match, right?  I'd rather desolder the almost empty Gamma2 board than the full Gamma1).  I'm having difficulties desoldering them.  Any tips?  I've been trying desoldering wick, but it doesn't seem to working too well or maybe I'm doing something wrong.  I sort of wonder whether I bought bad braid or something, since videos I've seen appear to be pretty flexible but the stuff I have is quite stiff.  Would it be worth getting something like the RadioShack desoldering iron?

 

[MisterX]

Does the Y2 board plug into the Y1 board as intended?
 You're asking if it matters when you have the answer right there in front of you.
(if they don't fit together you're probably going to have to pull or cut the plastic parts off and remove the pins one at a time)

 

[WC Annihilus]

Think you might've misunderstood me.  I know that the boards are not mating correctly.  When I was asking if it matters, I was referring to how on the Gamma1 page it specifies the headers for J2U/J3U and the receptacles for J4D/J5D.  I accidentally flipped them (and did the Gamma2 "right", though in this case wrong), but that shouldn't matter as long as I match it correctly on the Gamma2?  I'd much rather work on fixing my mistake on the practically empty Gamma2 board than the totally full Gamma1.
 
Thanks again

 

[MisterX]

Sigh...
It does not matter what connector you put where as long as the two boards plug into each other as intended.
 
 
 
Edit: Rephrased.

 

[WC Annihilus]

Alright, that's what I figured.  I'm going to see if I can get them off the board without breaking them, but if I have to replace them, could someone confirm whether these are the right ones?
9P Header
3P Receptacle
5P Receptacle
 
Thanks

 

[MisterX]

3P Receptacle      S7036-ND
5P Receptacle      S7038-ND
2P Receptacle      S7035-ND
36P Header          S1211E-36-ND
10P Header          S1211E-10-ND
 
Or you may be able to order them from the AMB audio shop (the receptacles are readily available but you will have to inquire about the pin headers).

 

[WC Annihilus]

Well, I managed to get everything off the board, but I'm having difficulty clearing one of the holes.  What's bothering me is that whatever is in it doesn't appear to be melting at all even when I put my iron directly on it.  I'm a bit concerned that I might've damaged something or other.  Here's a top and bottom pic:
 
  
 
Any ideas?  And should I be unable to clear it, is there any way to salvage this?  Could I possibly skip the receptacle in that particular spot and try soldering a wire between the two boards there?  Is that spot required to be connected on both boards for the Gamma2?  Or could I solder a wire on just the Gamma1 board as if I were doing just a Full++ since it's "just" the ground?
 
Thanks

 

[Nebby]

What soldering iron are you using? That pin is attached to the ground plane so it would be difficult for a weak iron to provide enough heat.

 

[WC Annihilus]

It's an adjustable Xytronic pencil iron.  This one:
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7484
 
I've been trying with the dial at somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4 way.  Tried both the stock tip and sticking a smaller 1/64" tip directly in.

 

[Nebby]

It simply might not have enough wattage to support the temperature setting with the ground plane there

 

[amb]

Apply some flux, add a bit of fresh solder, heat the pad until the solder melts, then poke a stainless steel dental pick into the hole to clear it.  The stainless steel won't stick to the solder.

 

[jdkJake]

Solder vacuum (bulb or pump) would work as well.

Personally, I get the solder to flow and give it a good blow. Just be sure there is nothing important behind to catch the molten solder debris.