Cigar Box Case
May 18, 2006 at 5:41 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 15

utarch00

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I have a millet that I would like to put in a cigar box. My main question is how do I mount the board? In my hammond case it sits in the grooves. Do I need to build a base or something for it.

Thanks.
 
May 18, 2006 at 5:43 AM Post #2 of 15
one word, or more like two depending on how you want to spell it
standoffs.

Get em at your local hardware store like OSH, and screw em into your cigar case , and put a bolt through the PCB, now you have it nice and elevated... NB. I think it might require some tapping.
 
May 18, 2006 at 5:46 AM Post #3 of 15
Yeah, ATAT is right, you should get a set of standoffs.

There ought to be six holes around the perimeter of your board, and I think they'll accept a 6/32 screw. So get six standoffs and 12 screws, and use that to elevate it inside the box. Pretty simple, and it'll look nice, too.
 
May 18, 2006 at 5:51 AM Post #4 of 15
or if you're lazy and using a blue velvet, you can just tighten the pot nut really nice. don't forget to use the pot's little nub
 
May 18, 2006 at 4:06 PM Post #7 of 15
Max Bond?
very_evil_smiley.gif
 
May 18, 2006 at 4:45 PM Post #8 of 15
What I did in mine (not a cigar box, but a wood box nonetheless) was to cut two strips about 3/4" wide the length of the board. I then attached the board to these with screws and then glued the strips to the bottom of the box in the appropriate location. This seemed to give the board a lot more rigidity when I was swapping tubes out of the board mounted sockets than the standoffs I tried first.
 
May 18, 2006 at 4:52 PM Post #9 of 15
Quote:

Originally Posted by Blooze
What I did in mine (not a cigar box, but a wood box nonetheless) was to cut two strips about 3/4" wide the length of the board. I then attached the board to these with screws and then glued the strips to the bottom of the box in the appropriate location. This seemed to give the board a lot more rigidity when I was swapping tubes out of the board mounted sockets than the standoffs I tried first.


It is critical that the Millett board be well supported on all 4 sides if the tube sockets are board mounted. Otherwise I'd say there's a high likelyhood that you'll end up with stressed/broken solder joints at some point. On any Millett that I've built I've used all 6 of the screw holes to support the board on standoffs.
 
May 18, 2006 at 5:35 PM Post #10 of 15
Millett011resize.jpg



Nate, here's what I did with my original board. Obviously I have top mounted sockets, but the board mounted ones were what I used at first. The strips run the length of the board front to back on each side.


Shane
 
May 18, 2006 at 5:37 PM Post #11 of 15
Quote:

Originally Posted by Blooze
Nate, here's what I did with my original board. Obviously I have top mounted sockets, but the board mounted ones were what I used at first. The strips run the length of the board front to back on each side.


Shane, that looks good and certainly adequate. But supporting the long edge of the board along its entire length there should be little risk of it flexing. I think if someone were just to use the corner screw holes they would be in danger of a very flexible board.

Nate
 
Nov 23, 2019 at 8:44 AM Post #13 of 15
I would definitely use some standoffs. You can probably find them on McMaster Carr, or maybe even a local hardware store. You can also take some small-diameter PVC from home Depot and cut the standoffs yourself. They don't have to be pretty. I usually 3D print mine
 

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