[v1rooz]

I asked maybe someone have he-400i also and could compare this eq with his own.

 

[Kentajalli]

I asked maybe someone have he-400i also and could compare this eq with his own.

OK I got you.
I very much doubt if your player would need any eq. at all.
Your choice of headphone and ears? - that is personal to you.
Good luck.

 

[v1rooz]

OK I got you.
I very much doubt if your player would need any eq. at all.
Your choice of headphone and ears? - that is personal to you.
Good luck.

Player doesnt but headphones yes. You know he-400i are very good but not perfect. Im doing eq according to their fq response chart for cover their disadvantages in some frequencies.

 

[Rob Watts]

Hey guys i have some thoughs about that DSD upscalling discussion. With my he-400i i have to use equalizer just to lower a little high frequencies. No matter if i upscale file or not its sound the same (without eq), but when i use eq its sound completly different with upscalling. So i think upscalling make dsp effects like equalizer sounds better? different? and i found that text from neutron faq:

"

Feature: All to DSD​

As we all know the analog sound has limitless resolution but in digital world data is limited by the resolution of its digital representation. The lower resolution the less data can be passed to the digital-to-analog converter (DAC) for the accurate generation of analog sound.
Modern DACs are sophisticated devices which operate with 32-bit resolution and some oversampling DACs use 64-bit math to improve SNR even more. While in majority of cases these DACs accept 32-bit integer data which provides theoretical 192.66 dB SNR ratio there is still limitation imposed by the necessity to convert the floating point data of the audio engine to the integer output format of the DAC. This conversion is causing the quantization error when the audio data resolution has to be decreased, for example: audio engine operates with 64-bit resolution and we must output to the DAC in 32-bit integer format which requires truncation and effectively it is a source of the quantization error.
To lower quantization error within the perceivable range of the frequencies (for the human) we can employ the output in DSD format which is highly oversampled 1-bit digital representation of the audio data. Due to high oversampling ratio we do not truncate data bits and therefore deliver audio in its full resolution.
Neutron's audio engine is capable of output to DSD. If you employ Equalizer of other DSP effects and audio hardware supports at least DSD64 then consider using this opportunity to increase the quality of the final sound and to make it more pleasant to your ears.
"

What do you think about that

Oh dear...

Where is Mr. Watts when you need him.
He wiould bull***t that argument with a stroke of his keyboard.

I am no expert, nor knowledgeable enough to argue technical grey areas in that article. I just do away with as much software tinkering as I can, I trust Mojo to do its job that I paid for.
Ofcourse if it works for you, fantastic.

Oh dear...

I wish you had not posted this as I generally have a rule of not replying to idiotic posts, so now you are forcing my hand. So DSD is supposedly good because “Due to high oversampling ratio we do not truncate data bits and therefore deliver audio in its full resolution”. This is complete rubbish. DSD is created by first truncating the 24,32 or 64 bits into 1 bit; it then uses a noise shaper to use feedback to reduce the huge truncation error. This feedback is not perfect though; it creates transient timing errors (making DSD sound soft) small signal amplitude errors (making it sound flat with poor depth) and noise floor modulation (1-bit modulators innately have noise floor modulation issues). With DSD 64 you are looking at audibly damaging errors equivalent to only 20 bits. So it’s completely nuts to suggest that DSD is better than PCM from a quantisation perspective.

If you want the best sound (transparency and musicality) always send Chord DACs with the original bit perfect source – never convert to DSD, and do not upsample, as all the available upsamplers have poorer sound quality compared to the WTA filters built into Chord DACs.

Happy listening Rob

 

[118900]

Strike 2.........

 

[Kentajalli]

Oh dear...

Oh dear...

I wish you had not posted this as I generally have a rule of not replying to idiotic posts, so now you are forcing my hand. So DSD is supposedly good because “Due to high oversampling ratio we do not truncate data bits and therefore deliver audio in its full resolution”. This is complete rubbish. DSD is created by first truncating the 24,32 or 64 bits into 1 bit; it then uses a noise shaper to use feedback to reduce the huge truncation error. This feedback is not perfect though; it creates transient timing errors (making DSD sound soft) small signal amplitude errors (making it sound flat with poor depth) and noise floor modulation (1-bit modulators innately have noise floor modulation issues). With DSD 64 you are looking at audibly damaging errors equivalent to only 20 bits. So it’s completely nuts to suggest that DSD is better than PCM from a quantisation perspective.

If you want the best sound (transparency and musicality) always send Chord DACs with the original bit perfect source – never convert to DSD, and do not upsample, as all the available upsamplers have poorer sound quality compared to the WTA filters built into Chord DACs.

Happy listening Rob

OK, so it took more than one stroke of his keyboard, still, I knew my man!

 

[Kentajalli]

Player doesnt but headphones yes. You know he-400i are very good but not perfect. Im doing eq according to their fq response chart for cover their disadvantages in some frequencies.

if you have updated Neutron recently, then they have answered your prayers.
Go to settings, playback, DSP.
locate "frequency response correction", click on it, click + to add an "Autoeq".
you will get a vast list of presets, each one for a specific headphone.
do a search and locate HE400i 2020 and add it.
if you enable it, it supposedly corrects the frequency response.
But I warn you, you might end up spitting on the floor while swearing at it!
but it is good fun.
(waste of time)

 

[Julius Decimus]

I asked maybe someone have he-400i also and could compare this eq with his own.

Take a look what are the advices in HiFi Man thread. : https://www.head-fi.org/threads/hifiman-he-400i-impressions-and-discussion.698974/

Type 'EQ' in search and take a look at few comments.

As you posted, i see 2-3db, this is not big correction in general.

Which means to me your headphones are good at responding to EQ changes. Read about it in the thread for this model above, you should get good ideas.

 

[Steve Wilcox]

Seems great.

I listen to 'Rainbow - Live in Munich 1977'. This is good concert. If somebody listens rock, i wholeheartedly recommend it. - https://www.metal-archives.com/albums/Rainbow/Live_in_Munich_1977/621201

Will work with any live recordings, so long as you know them well and know where to listen for finer details.

The first gig I went to was Rainbow at Manchester Free Trade Hall in 1976. 13 years old and it completely blew me away. I don't think I've ever experienced such exileraration at a gig since then.

I've got this Munich 1977 gig lined up to listen to now on Qobuz. Thom Jurek's review on Roon is also glowing: "Get this one; no matter what, just get it."

45 years on I'm looking forward to some serious heavy rock nostalgia.

 

[damdl]

Hello Everybody! (Storytime)

It's been around 8 months since I've got a Mojo and I've got to give big praise to everyone at Chord for what is an amazing piece of equipment. Things from the beginning were not as smooth because I received a scuffed unit that seemed that wasn't new, long story short, that sucked and I asked for a partial refund and the seller actually refunded me 100 USD, no harm no foul then. (blame on the seller of course)

Moving forward a few months in the line I started having some troubles with the battery -possibly confirming my theory on the used product- so, I started investigating different solutions, you can, of course, get a new battery but given that I am in Mexico this usually leads to paying sometimes even 150+ USD just for the battery which honestly after seeing Mojo's selling for less than 300 I couldn't simply pay almost half the price of a new unit just for the battery -take into account that I live in Mexico so, add shipping and taxes and you will be paying much more for things that are in fact not that pricy-.

This seemed like It would be a better idea to simply get either something else or buying another Mojo but it was just too soon to simply throw the towel on the floor, then one day I found in this thread a possible solution first implemented by @Vyyy (his post here) so that's why I'll be calling this the VyyyMod.

After doing some research I've found similar supercapacitors (part name PHV-5R4V505-R)used in the Chord Hugo TT2 and also used by Vyyy in the mod. Before going any further similar disclaimer: Do not try this on your unit, this was done as a last resort and will undoubtedly void your Mojo warranty.

I also found the battery connectors used in the circuit (JST-PH 2.0), in reality, I would've used my battery cables, but they seemed brittle, once I had everything It was DYI time!

The process was pretty straightforward, I just soldered the ends of the supercapacitor to the cable, (long = positive) and sleeved the cable so it was isolated. Result as shown:

Did some test with the supercapacitor and was I happy to find out that the results were about the same that with the battery (both in power and sound quality) the only difference is of course that you have to leave your Mojo plugged in (i use this power adapter from Anker). The next step was the removal of the battery which was also pretty straightforward. A tip on this is to use isopropyl alcohol to loosen out the battery glue without harming the glue itself (pretty nifty) -thanks Covid!-

Part 1. (images were too heavy...)

 

[damdl]

The next step was reassembling, for this I used some of the battery glue and stuck it to the supercapacitor, to ensure that the supercapacitor would not rattle around:

I also added some padding to the underside of the supercapacitor so it fitted well and wouldn't unstick:

And that's it, now I have a Mojo that doesn't need a battery, once again, I'm sure this is not the way that Rob Watts would've intended the Mojo to work as far as I know tomorrow my supercapacitor might blow and ruin my unit, so far it's been all good. Do this at your own risk.

Part 2 of 2.

 

[Johnfg465vd]

Hello guys, this is my first post here. I recently purchased Mojo and I'm loving the device so far. I do have an issue and hope someone can help me out. When compared to my PC (via a generic Optical Cable, through JRiver) the Mojo does not sound that good connected to my LG G7 (Amazon Basics USB Cable & UAPP). I also had xDuoo 05BL Pro module with me and when connected to the Coaxial Input in LDAC mode the sound seems off/ lifeless, which is understandable cause of Bluetooth I guess. On a side note, are there any alternatives to Poly?

Anyway could the issue be because of the amazon cable? I also tried Airplane mode, didn't help the issue. I'm thinking maybe I need to get a decent DAP to use as transport for better sound. What do you guys recommend?

 

[surfgeorge]

Hello guys, this is my first post here. I recently purchased Mojo and I'm loving the device so far. I do have an issue and hope someone can help me out. When compared to my PC (via a generic Optical Cable, through JRiver) the Mojo does not sound that good connected to my LG G7 (Amazon Basics USB Cable & UAPP). I also had xDuoo 05BL Pro module with me and when connected to the Coaxial Input in LDAC mode the sound seems off/ lifeless, which is understandable cause of Bluetooth I guess. On a side note, are there any alternatives to Poly?

Anyway could the issue be because of the amazon cable? I also tried Airplane mode, didn't help the issue. I'm thinking maybe I need to get a decent DAP to use as transport for better sound. What do you guys recommend?

For Offline use I love the Hiby R3-Mojo stack with coax cable. For Tidal I connect to my iPhone via a Meenova Lightning-micro USB cable.
Optical is the best though in terms of SQ. There is an Xduoo digital player w/o DAC specifically to be used as source for DACs. Supposed to be very good.
My stack with transport box:

 

[Scorpio1957]

My stacks

AK70/Mojo and Mojo/Poly

 

[Johnfg465vd]

For Offline use I love the Hiby R3-Mojo stack with coax cable. For Tidal I connect to my iPhone via a Meenova Lightning-micro USB cable.
Optical is the best though in terms of SQ. There is an Xduoo digital player w/o DAC specifically to be used as source for DACs. Supposed to be very good.
My stack with transport box:

Thanks for replying and sharing your setup. Hiby R3 looks like a good option. Have you noticed any SQ difference between Mojo paired with iPhone vs R3? I have an option to get Shanling M0 used for 95 USD, do you think it would be a good pairing?

You mean this "xDuoo X10T II". I'm sure it might pair well with mojo but, it is a bit expensive. I prefer to get something around 150 USD as I intend to save money and get Poly in the near future.

I read some previous posts and correct me if I'm wrong but the reason USB sometimes does not sound as good as Optical is cause of Radio Frequency Interference (RFI). Would this problem still be there if I used something like this?