Likeimthere
100+ Head-Fier
Can anyone explain the volume colors on the Mojo please?
Does anyone use this with the LCD-3s? If so how does it perform?
Can anyone explain the volume colors on the Mojo please?
guys sorry to ask but this volume table is for the hugo...I can't find a similar one for the mojo.
1/found my volume setting is blue to purple-ish (using flc 8s...have a pretty good seal, too)
based on this table i'm a bit concerned.... am i going deaf? (this is when outside, walking around, however)
2/also find my battery life is not 8 hrs...more like 4-5 based on my listening so far....anyfind have similar experiences?
The color setting for Hugo and Mojo is the same - the only difference is below -43 dB and above +3dB the differing light scheme kicks in. Also you can see variations in the two balls color as it gets closer to the next level.
As for battery life, this depends upon how well charged it is, and whether you are using USB or optical/coax, how loud you play, and the impedance of the headphones. So driving 300 ohms, using optical, green volume, you will get 8 hours. Use USB it will be 6 and a half hours. Use a low impedance IEM, green volume, and it will get worse. Use an 8 ohm loudspeaker and you will get even lower battery life.
Rob
The color indicator/volume problem isn't really a problem. Just start the Mojo in preset mode and count clicks to get to the right output level.
Preset is 3Vrms, each click is 1dB... Here's a summary of the math to get to your desired dB SPL level...
You need to know two parameters about your headphones:
Nominal sensitivity (dB SPL/mW)
Nominal impedance (Ohms)
Step 1: Calculate sensitivity as dB SPL / 1 Vrms
Y = y0 + 10*log10(1000/Z)
y0 = headphone nominal sensitivity (dB SPL/mW), Z = headphone nominal impedance
Step 2: Pick a target volume (dB SPL) and figure out output level needed to achieve it
V = 10^((T-Y)/20)
V = target level (Vrms), T = target loudness (dB SPL), Y = calculated sensitivity
Step 3: Loss due to Mojo output impedance
Loss(dB) = 20*log10(Z/(Z+0.075))
Z = headphone nominal impedance, 0.075 = Mojo nominal output impedance
Step 4: Find how many dB down the target level is from the preset
L = 20*log10(V/3) - Loss(dB)
Simply round the number above to figure out how many clicks from the preset you need to go.
I created a little spreadsheet to calculate the right levels for directly driving headphones from the Mojo...
MojoLevelCalculator.xlsx 11k .xlsx file
Im saying it, AKG K612 and Mojo best pairing iv ever heard. Listening to Beyond Creation - The Aura and its amazing, never hear technical death metal sound so good.
The speed and completely effortless sound coming to my ears is like nothing iv heard, if you have the headphones that can handle this type of complexity give them a try. Amazing fretless bass work by Forest.
That's pretty impressive for barely over a hundred bucks! If I wasn't in "trade thousands of dollars worth of gear for even more four-figure gear" mode I'd buy it. Not sure if it would be able to beat STAX, the HE500, etc., though.
By the way, you need to click the Source button on the top left, then paste the Bandcamp code.
Detailed information about Mojos volume levels & associated button colours (Click to hide)
Thanks to GRUMPYOLDGUY for creating the following Mojo-specific spreadsheet:
It's DAC part is pretty good and its amp needs improvement.
its definitely impressive, i compared K612 / K702 / K712
K612 came out on top and better still the cheapest of the 3, i have noticed the mid fi headphones are the most satisfying imo, they have a lot less faults than TOTL.
it goes to show that you really dont need to spend tons of cash to get good sound, K612 will go next to HD650 as the best i have heard regardless of price.
I am starting to feel the same way about the HD-600...have owned 2x HD-800, LCD-XC, Focal Elears, etc