[DecentLevi]

No worries. The USB optical is great if you move around different rooms as it is available in various lengths (33 feet (10M) up to 164 feet (50M)). The old school Chord posters have a DAVE in the main room and a TT2 in the office room, but only one main $40,000 Music Server. So why buy 2 $40,000 Music Servers when the USB optical is all that is needed. These old school Chord posters don't compromise Priority 1: SQ, Priority 2: Practical. They won't even settle on the most power PCs on the market (CPU power needed for real-time audio), they need a Taiko Extreme. It's also easy to roll-up and carry to another place. You may need heat sinks though as it gets warm. I'll try to post photos of my heat sinks.

With this solution, I would concentrate on the Macbook as the main playback source and use the iPhone as a controller-only. For example, you can use the Audirvana Native Core Kernel? I forget the label, but it bypasses the OS kernel? I forget, I haven't used Aurdirvana for a decade. But that should provide optimal SQ on a Mac. I think there is a RAM playback mode too? But the point is focus playback on the Macbook. Install the Audirvana Remote App on iPhone just as the controller. This way you can have the Macbook in the bedroom, run the optical to the balcony with the Hugo2 and listen to the HD650 on the balcony. Just don't trip over the optical cable and fall off the balcony if you do indeed have a balcony.

I'm not sure of your question on the Hugo2 USB socket, but it can be sensitive if an accident is involved. The fit is tight, but I still like to have the USB USPCB as a buffer. Plus it's needed with the USB optical. For SQ, you should get close to perfect neutrality since cooper wires don't compromise the signature. No colouring or artificial preservatives.

10/10 times I would spend a few hundred on a USB optical solution over some USB -> SPDIF converter. I don't like conversions, especially when it's no longer needed with a USB optical option. Plus you are guaranteed to use the Hugo2 PLL clock via USB optical input.

You need this too:

https://uptoneaudio.com/products/uspcb-a-b-adapter

Just a PCB, no cooper wires. Many impressions throughout the net that this is close to perfectly neutral too...

Here's the original post by romaz [Chord Legend] regarding the USB optical cable:

https://whatsbestforum.com/threads/taiko-audio-sgm-extreme-the-crème-de-la-crème.27433/post-631854

My mind is still on SPDIF, but if I remember anything else on USB optical I will post. I'll write a Source Take soon, so maybe my memory will recall something...

EDIT:
2+2=says it decouples because it's optical, but this statement confirms subjectively to that theory:



So some add their favorite cooper wire USB like the Sablon @$700. I wouldn't but its an option if there's a USB cooper wire flavor to your liking. I prefer neutrality so USB PCB only. Maybe the USPCB is not mandatory and you can use any USB cable temp until you are ready to try out the USPCB.

I had the confidence I can return the product anytime within 30 days if needed (YMMV):

Hey guys, I've been mulling through this thread in my spare time for the last few days, still trying to figure out what is "USB optical", and is it the best transport method? The term USB optical still confuses me being that USB is an electrical rather than optical signal, so perhaps you are referring to a special dual optical cable that's shaped similar to a USB cable, but works only on an adapter box which is itself connected to the computer via USB? If so, any advantages over a standard Toslink cable?

My source is a Windows laptop playing lossless with Foobar program, and I'm currently using an Audio-GD DI-20 as a DDC with several output options into my DAC.

It's however somewhat prone to loud episodes of white noise which I could never remedy over a very long time, so ultimately I'm considering between either a USB opical solution, or another method I have noticed... I'm not sure on the exact wording or models right now but it has something to do with ethernet out to an adapter box into RCA coax, I think I noticed it on the Chord Qutest thread. For me, better always refers to the best fidelity (transparency dynamics, black background, etc.) and hopefully not too lofty cost-wise.

 

[technobear]

Hey guys, I've been mulling through this thread in my spare time for the last few days, still trying to figure out what is "USB optical", and is it the best transport method? The term USB optical still confuses me being that USB is an electrical rather than optical signal, so perhaps you are referring to a special dual optical cable that's shaped similar to a USB cable, but works only on an adapter box which is itself connected to the computer via USB? If so, any advantages over a standard Toslink cable?

My source is a Windows laptop playing lossless with Foobar program, and I'm currently using an Audio-GD DI-20 as a DDC with several output options into my DAC.

It's however somewhat prone to loud episodes of white noise which I could never remedy over a very long time, so ultimately I'm considering between either a USB opical solution, or another method I have noticed... I'm not sure on the exact wording or models right now but it has something to do with ethernet out to an adapter box into RCA coax, I think I noticed it on the Chord Qutest thread. For me, better always refers to the best fidelity (transparency dynamics, black background, etc.) and hopefully not too lofty cost-wise.

If you must use USB from a laptop, the simplest answer is an iPurifier2 or iPurifier3 but you will need to use a 'B' to 'micro B' adaptor at the Hugo2 end.

 

[DecentLevi]

If you must use USB from a laptop, the simplest answer is an iPurifier2 or iPurifier3 but you will need to use a 'B' to 'micro B' adaptor at the Hugo2 end.

Well thanks but I've already gone way beyond that. My full chain from Windows is USB --> Schiit Wyrd --> iPurifier 2 --> Audio GD DI20 (DDC) --> DAC. Truth be told I don't have the TT2 and am in the process of choosing another DAC.

The sound I'm getting is world class, even rivaling a standalone (mid-fi Teac) CD transport directly to (former) Qutest DAC via top Toslink optical cable. But I'm looking for something less glitchy.

 

[ChrisGB]

Well thanks but I've already gone way beyond that. My full chain from Windows is USB --> Schiit Wyrd --> iPurifier 2 --> Audio GD DI20 (DDC) --> DAC. Truth be told I don't have the TT2 and am in the process of choosing another DAC.

The sound I'm getting is world class, even rivaling a standalone (mid-fi Teac) CD transport directly to (former) Qutest DAC via top Toslink optical cable. But I'm looking for something less glitchy.

That seems to be an awful lot of stuff between PC and H2! Have you tried running with as little between PC and DAC as possible (start with just a cable) and see if the white noise errors persist?

I found the white noise issue when trying a Mojo 2, but I think this was down the the way one of my PCs ran the driver. The laptop produced the white noise issue, stops and stutters too, the workstation worked well.

 

[Nostoi]

Well thanks but I've already gone way beyond that. My full chain from Windows is USB --> Schiit Wyrd --> iPurifier 2 --> Audio GD DI20 (DDC) --> DAC. Truth be told I don't have the TT2 and am in the process of choosing another DAC.

The sound I'm getting is world class, even rivaling a standalone (mid-fi Teac) CD transport directly to (former) Qutest DAC via top Toslink optical cable. But I'm looking for something less glitchy.

Matrix X-SPDIF 2. Job done.

 

[DecentLevi]

Absolutely, that's how people end up with a long chain is from having started simple and done extensive experiments, keeping the longer chain with noticed incremental improvements. I could try if less reduces the occasional white noise issue but I may have already done that in recent years. Moreover, waiting to hear back about USB optical vs. the Ethernet adapter options, above.

 

[dontfeedphils]

My vote is to go with a separate, low power network streamer to feed your DAC. Start simple, stay simple.

 

[Kentajalli]

Absolutely, that's how people end up with a long chain is from having started simple and done extensive experiments, keeping the longer chain with noticed incremental improvements. I could try if less reduces the occasional white noise issue but I may have already done that in recent years. Moreover, waiting to hear back about USB optical vs. the Ethernet adapter options, above.

May I ask why you need so many devices between your laptop and the DAC?
I just dropped in. sorry if you have to repeat it one more time.

 

[DecentLevi]

It's not as many as it sounds. Just a DDC converter box with 2 little USB decrapifiers in front of it (also with specific ferrite chokes on cables, and a hefty power conditioner). The sum of all made a profound and noticeable improvement in the likes of dynamics, clarity, realism, etc. probably by incrementally reducing jitter and EMI/RF. I've had it this way for 2-3 years and going back to just 1 or 2 decrapifiers reduces the overall fidelity, as tested on many DAC/amp combos. Just temporary setup anyway.

 

[Andyb90]

Hi, thank for replying. So the power bank should be on all the time? Can we turn off our H2 when not in use?

Yes, powerbank is always on so that the Hugo 2 stays in desktop mode. I have the Hugo 2 turned off when not in use.

 

[Kentajalli]

It's not as many as it sounds. Just a DDC converter box with 2 little USB decrapifiers in front of it (also with specific ferrite chokes on cables, and a hefty power conditioner). The sum of all made a profound and noticeable improvement in the likes of dynamics, clarity, realism, etc. probably by incrementally reducing jitter and EMI/RF. I've had it this way for 2-3 years and going back to just 1 or 2 decrapifiers reduces the overall fidelity, as tested on many DAC/amp combos. Just temporary setup anyway.

I am going to assume that you require a long USB cable to connect your laptop to Hugo2, that is connected to your main system.
And that you have had issues with RFI/EMI , would I be correct? is that why you have implemented the extra devices?
What's a DDC converter?

 

[Melting735]

I don't even hear any noticable noise when I directly connect my Hugo 2 to my laptop.

Instead of adding more component to your chain, it's probably more efficient to find out which part of your chain gives the most noise from source to your headphone.

Are you still able to hear any noise if you replace your laptop by a cellphone or iPad? Do you hear any noise if you use Bluetooth on your hugo2?

 

[801evan]

How my chain was back in December...
Zen stream to idefender to usb purifier to ultrashort silver occ A to B adapter to usb optical cable to idefender to ultrashort silver occ A to B adapter to usb Purifier to src dx / topping d10s to Hugo 2. Both idefender powered by custom psu/ hypsos + 60x lt3045. Zen stream is powered by custom psu + 6x lt3045.

Hugo 2 desktop mode + ipower x to 24x lt3045

Everything on full loom solid occ silver cables and dedicated custom line Conditioners. Everything on sorbothanes.

Taking out one component makes a big degradation on the sound. Easily drives Susvara. Has sub bass and good quantity of it and stock cable sounds so good on it.

Oh...matrix Xspdif2 was one of my worst upgrade experience. Even powered it with hdplex + lps 1.2 with silver occ dc cables.

 

[DecentLevi]

Noise from laptops, mains electricity and other components could be described as not noticeable, and even not possible to measure. It's a harmonic type of noise that colors and rides along with the entire waveform adding a sort of grainy or harsh characteristic. Rob Watts once explained it better. I wouldn't describe my laptop as being noisy nor could I ever notice it - BUT - once it's eliminated, it's akin to new secret doors of fidelity literally opening up. Soundstage, bass definition, detail and the organic experience have propelled my system into heights I never thought possible, and the difference is very noticeable and repeatable. (with USB signal cleaners, DDCs and helped along by power conditioning and shielded cables throughout).

DDC = digital to digital converter. Like the Singxer SU-6 or Auio-GD DI20 these not only convert USB to the likes of BNC, optical, HDMI and AES/EBU, but significantly upgrade the overall 'resolution' with relocking and power filtering. The final benefit is being able to pair better with certain inputs of DACs have where one input type happens to be implemented better than the other. The above was based on my Chord Qutest that I had to sell (and miss).

 

[surfgeorge]

Noise from laptops, mains electricity and other components could be described as not noticeable, and even not possible to measure. It's a harmonic type of noise that colors and rides along with the entire waveform adding a sort of grainy or harsh characteristic. Rob Watts once explained it better. I wouldn't describe my laptop as being noisy nor could I ever notice it - BUT - once it's eliminated, it's akin to new secret doors of fidelity literally opening up. Soundstage, bass definition, detail and the organic experience have propelled my system into heights I never thought possible, and the difference is very noticeable and repeatable. (with USB signal cleaners, DDCs and helped along by power conditioning and shielded cables throughout).

DDC = digital to digital converter. Like the Singxer SU-6 or Auio-GD DI20 these not only convert USB to the likes of BNC, optical, HDMI and AES/EBU, but significantly upgrade the overall 'resolution' with relocking and power filtering. The final benefit is being able to pair better with certain inputs of DACs have where one input type happens to be implemented better than the other. The above was based on my Chord Qutest that I had to sell (and miss).

Did you ever try the 2Go? And if you did - how did it compare to your current setup?