[jamato8]

As the M1 fuse continues to burn in and opens up, I am starting to realize just how wonderful the Ha6a really is. I have never heard such holographic sound out of my HeKse as well as my Caldera. The M1 fuse has indeed cleared up the last remaining congestion/veil I was hearing in the sound. The sound is clean, crisp and airy. THe bass is deep and tight and not as bloomy as before. I am still being impressed each time i turn on this amp and noticing subtle improvement in the overall sound. Cant wait till I hit atleast 300 hours and comparing it to stock.

How many hours were on the amp before putting in the fuse?

 

[shafat777]

How many hours were on the amp before putting in the fuse?

I think around 100.

 

[Michaels1963]

I think around 100.

I replaced the .05 cent fuses and power cord in the second month of ownership What a difference I use the Synergistic Research Orange fuses.
https://www.thecableco.com/accessories/fuses.html

 

[Wes S]

As the M1 fuse continues to burn in and opens up, I am starting to realize just how wonderful the Ha6a really is. I have never heard such holographic sound out of my HeKse as well as my Caldera. The M1 fuse has indeed cleared up the last remaining congestion/veil I was hearing in the sound. The sound is clean, crisp and airy. THe bass is deep and tight and not as bloomy as before. I am still being impressed each time i turn on this amp and noticing subtle improvement in the overall sound. Cant wait till I hit atleast 300 hours and comparing it to stock.

Nice man! It did the same thing for my HA300MK2, and months later I am still constantly being amazed.

 

[AudioPowerHead]

Continuing my discovery journey on 22DE4s, I tried out a pair of Raytheon (Japanese rebrand) black plates and paired them with my other tube combo of SE el34 and Mullard CV491/ecc82 over this weekend.

The sound from my HA-6A; as compared with using RCA 22DE4; is now warmer with mids more pronounced and dynamics are pushed to even higher level than the grey plates. The bass slams so hard that I couldn’t believe it’s from a tube amp and not solid state…. I simply love it. And the top end has more sparkles and yet smooth; compensating for the typical slight roll-offs of Mullard preamp tubes. Sonically clearer and tighter with an enhanced sound stage quite close to that of the RCAs. These black plates Raytheon tubes are now my #1 preferred 22DE4s followed by RCA.

Just amazing how rectifier tubes can have such a profound impact on the sound output. @Wes S thanks for your reco on these black plates.

 

[Wes S]

Continuing my discovery journey on 22DE4s, I tried out a pair of Raytheon (Japanese rebrand) black plates and paired them with my other tube combo of SE el34 and Mullard CV491/ecc82 over this weekend.

The sound from my HA-6A; as compared with using RCA 22DE4; is now warmer with mids more pronounced and dynamics are pushed to even higher level than the grey plates. The bass slams so hard that I couldn’t believe it’s from a tube amp and not solid state…. I simply love it. And the top end has more sparkles and yet smooth; compensating for the typical slight roll-offs of Mullard preamp tubes. Sonically clearer and tighter with an enhanced sound stage quite close to that of the RCAs. These black plates Raytheon tubes are now my #1 preferred 22DE4s followed by RCA.

Just amazing how rectifier tubes can have such a profound impact on the sound output. @Wes S thanks for your reco on these black plates.

That's awesome you found some Black Plates!

I actually had a "roll off" yesterday between the Japanese Grey and Black Plates and the Black Plates took the crown for me as well. The Grey Plates are exciting up top yet lack some of that warmth and organic/natural feel in the lower mids to mids that I get with the black plates. The black plates have better middbass slam as well, and make the music sound more lifelike. I prefer the staging with the black plates as well, and think they do a better job of creating a holographic feel.

Got to love a good tube roll!

 

[AudioPowerHead]

That's awesome you found some Black Plates!

I actually had a "roll off" yesterday between the Japanese Grey and Black Plates and the Black Plates took the crown for me as well. The Grey Plates are exciting up top yet lack some of that warmth and organic/natural feel in the lower mids to mids that I get with the black plates. The black plates have better middbass slam as well, and make the music sound more lifelike. I prefer the staging with the black plates as well, and think they do a better job of creating a holographic feel.

Got to love a good tube roll!

Indeed there are very noticeable differences between the black and grey plates ! And black plate is the clear winner !!

Am quite settled and happy with where I’ve landed on tubes for now. Maybe next thing to look at will the fuse. Seems like a few others have already jumped onto the fuse bandwagon as well. Although I believe in what you and others have shared, am still deliberating if I should burn US$300 for the M1; something that typically cost only less than a dollar. And continual replacement cost can be high whenever the fuse blows.

 

[Wes S]

Indeed there are very noticeable differences between the black and grey plates ! And black plate is the clear winner !!

Am quite settled and happy with where I’ve landed on tubes for now. Maybe next thing to look at will the fuse. Seems like a few others have already jumped onto the fuse bandwagon as well. Although I believe in what you and others have shared, am still deliberating if I should burn US$300 for the M1; something that typically cost only less than a dollar. And continual replacement cost can be high whenever the fuse blows.

Nothing better than feeling content and satisfied with a tube combo, and it's such a rewarding feeling once you get there.

As for the M1 fuse, it is definitely more of a gamble if you have been blowing fuses, however if you aren't blowing stock fuses (I am knocking on wood right now ) myself and quite a few other's have not had any audio grade (M1 and SR Purple) fuses blow on us so far as well. The M1 at $300 is a tough pill to swallow, and especially since it's such small thing, but pretty much everyone who has heard what it can do (me included) has said it was worth it. Of note, a quick ab'ing (if you can even pull it off), is not the best way evaluate fuses, cables and tubes, and I recommend sticking with a change like those for days all the way up to a week or even longer to get a good feel for what has changed. Over time, you will either notice or feel like something is missing or something has improved and then adjust or stay where you are at. Quick ab'ing and quick blind listening test are pointless when it comes to evaluating gear in my opinion.

 

[busseysound]

Nothing better than feeling content and satisfied with a tube combo, and it's such a rewarding feeling once you get there.

As for the M1 fuse, it is definitely more of a gamble if you have been blowing fuses, however if you aren't blowing stock fuses (I am knocking on wood right now ) myself and quite a few other's have not had any audio grade (M1 and SR Purple) fuses blow on us so far as well. The M1 at $300 is a tough pill to swallow, and especially since it's such small thing, but pretty much everyone who has heard what it can do (me included) has said it was worth it. Of note, a quick ab'ing (if you can even pull it off), is not the best way evaluate fuses, cables and tubes, and I recommend sticking with a change like those for days all the way up to a week or even longer to get a good feel for what has changed. Over time, you will either notice or feel like something is missing or something has improved and then adjust or stay where you are at. Quick ab'ing and quick blind listening test are pointless when it comes to evaluating gear in my opinion.

It can be a real shocker how much fuses can help in the DAC, amp, and especially the streamer. I have SR fuses all around and the more you use the bigger the difference. The SR's usually need a higher amperage than what is required. I've never blown any of their fuses until recently when I tried them in my Bryston BDP-2. I contacted SR (who replaces them at no charge) and they said that some components just have a bit of trouble with needing a much higher amperage. That being said I went up quite a bit on the amperage and used a 2A I already had and it's working just fine.

As a side note (but extremely important) ,when I was having trouble with the SR's in the Bryston I decided to try an Audio Magic fuse. I ordered the Nano fuse first and liked it so much I ordered the Ultimate Premier. Unfortunately the Ultimate Premier blew after the 3rd or 4th power on. The generic fuse has always worked (and still does). Their Nano fuse works, and the 2A extra SR I had has been fine as well. The terrible part is that Jaguar audio blames and shames me for putting their fuse in the Bryston to begin with saying that the component is defective and needs to be sent to Bryston. No refund, no replacement. I'm out $239 as a result. They just didn't understand that the SR fuses usually need a higher amperage. After extensive emails with Darin at Jaguar I can honestly say I've never been more frustrated with a company in the audiophile industry nor have I had a worse experience. It even says 30 day warranty on the website, which is why I wanted to try their fuse in the first place.

Just be careful who you order from. It was a mistake for me to try someone other than Chris at VH Audio. He's fantastic and always has your back.

 

[AudioPowerHead]

Nothing better than feeling content and satisfied with a tube combo, and it's such a rewarding feeling once you get there.

As for the M1 fuse, it is definitely more of a gamble if you have been blowing fuses, however if you aren't blowing stock fuses (I am knocking on wood right now ) myself and quite a few other's have not had any audio grade (M1 and SR Purple) fuses blow on us so far as well. The M1 at $300 is a tough pill to swallow, and especially since it's such small thing, but pretty much everyone who has heard what it can do (me included) has said it was worth it. Of note, a quick ab'ing (if you can even pull it off), is not the best way evaluate fuses, cables and tubes, and I recommend sticking with a change like those for days all the way up to a week or even longer to get a good feel for what has changed. Over time, you will either notice or feel like something is missing or something has improved and then adjust or stay where you are at. Quick ab'ing and quick blind listening test are pointless when it comes to evaluating gear in my opinion.

Yes am currently feeling quite contended with where I am with my set-up. Nonetheless I might still give the M1 a try. My amp is 230V and is stated “ T1AL250V” at the mains fuse. So if I do decide to pull the trigger, I should get the M1 with this config ?
Size: Small 5x20mm
Blow Time: Slow (T)
Amp: 1A

Thanks for the advice.

 

[shafat777]

Yes am currently feeling quite contended with where I am with my set-up. Nonetheless I might still give the M1 a try. My amp is 230V and is stated “ T1AL250V” at the mains fuse. So if I do decide to pull the trigger, I should get the M1 with this config ?
Size: Small 5x20mm
Blow Time: Slow (T)
Amp: 1A

Thanks for the advice.

Yes sir. You are correct.

 

[AudioPowerHead]

Yes sir. You are correct.

Thank you sir

 

[BiscuitHammer]

I don't know if someone has mentioned this before, but I just found out today that putting the cage on your ha-6a helps to quiet down any noise that the tubes catch from nearby interference (wireless radio, wifi AP, etc).

I was rolling tubes today and found the new tubes were quite noisy compared to the original. When I put the cage back on, the amp was significantly quieter!

 

[Wes S]

It can be a real shocker how much fuses can help in the DAC, amp, and especially the streamer. I have SR fuses all around and the more you use the bigger the difference. The SR's usually need a higher amperage than what is required. I've never blown any of their fuses until recently when I tried them in my Bryston BDP-2. I contacted SR (who replaces them at no charge) and they said that some components just have a bit of trouble with needing a much higher amperage. That being said I went up quite a bit on the amperage and used a 2A I already had and it's working just fine.

As a side note (but extremely important) ,when I was having trouble with the SR's in the Bryston I decided to try an Audio Magic fuse. I ordered the Nano fuse first and liked it so much I ordered the Ultimate Premier. Unfortunately the Ultimate Premier blew after the 3rd or 4th power on. The generic fuse has always worked (and still does). Their Nano fuse works, and the 2A extra SR I had has been fine as well. The terrible part is that Jaguar audio blames and shames me for putting their fuse in the Bryston to begin with saying that the component is defective and needs to be sent to Bryston. No refund, no replacement. I'm out $239 as a result. They just didn't understand that the SR fuses usually need a higher amperage. After extensive emails with Darin at Jaguar I can honestly say I've never been more frustrated with a company in the audiophile industry nor have I had a worse experience. It even says 30 day warranty on the website, which is why I wanted to try their fuse in the first place.

Just be careful who you order from. It was a mistake for me to try someone other than Chris at VH Audio. He's fantastic and always has your back.

Very helpful and thanks for sharing about that bad experience. I have heard nothing but great things about VH Audio, and just to add to that I have had great results buying my fuses from Edward at Highend-Electronics as well. Edward has outstanding customer service with excellent communication and he ships super quick.

 

[jamato8]

I use Schurter fuses. Gold plated ends, sand filled, which is there to stop shorting if the fuse blows but it also dampens the fuse to vibration. One dollar something each. I explored many fuses. Also they are a ceramic tube and very high quality.


Has anyone changed out the coupling caps? I recently changed out the caps on. the 300BMKII to Duelund cast copper. Tight fit but Duelunds are exceptional and those coupling caps are very important. A note, the caps Cayin uses are good. They didn't use caps of low quality, which is very nice.