[Wes S]

What power cables are people using? I didn't really believe much in power cables, but I decided to order 2 from Amazon to try out. They sound different... not sure why scientifically, but they certainly do. I'm testing the AudioQuest NRG-Z3 vs the Viborg MBU 1501. They both are interesting sonically, but I'm not sure I actually like them fully over the default cable in every category. I'll post my findings later after they have "burned in" some more. Does anyone have a suggestion for a power cable they feel keeps a lush mid bass, but adds a bit more articulation and control etc? One that isn't crazy expensive too. I'm not really into the idea of spending more than 300 bucks on a power cable at this time. And also anyone who doesn't believe in all this please go ahead and make fun of me. I don't mind it. I'd prefer if I didn't hear a difference tbh.

Audio Envy Ocean Elite 3p is what I am using and it punches way above it's price. I can't recommend this cable enough, and everyone (there are quite a few now) that has tried one has felt the same. I use their interconnects as well.

 

[steve468]

What power cables are people using? I didn't really believe much in power cables, but I decided to order 2 from Amazon to try out. They sound different... not sure why scientifically, but they certainly do. I'm testing the AudioQuest NRG-Z3 vs the Viborg MBU 1501. They both are interesting sonically, but I'm not sure I actually like them fully over the default cable in every category. I'll post my findings later after they have "burned in" some more. Does anyone have a suggestion for a power cable they feel keeps a lush mid bass, but adds a bit more articulation and control etc? One that isn't crazy expensive too. I'm not really into the idea of spending more than 300 bucks on a power cable at this time. And also anyone who doesn't believe in all this please go ahead and make fun of me. I don't mind it. I'd prefer if I didn't hear a difference tbh.

On my mk. 1, I have a DH Labs power I got as a throw in from Parts Connexion many years ago. It’s still listed on their website at 160 US but currently out of stock. I can’t say it’s amazing but there is slightly more detail with that cord vs. stock cable. Like a blacker background. It looks the part too being super thick and remount feeling.

I wasn’t a cable believer either until I was switching this cord around and I realized that my good hearing days correlated with whatever this cord was on.

 

[EagleKent]

What power cables are people using? I didn't really believe much in power cables, but I decided to order 2 from Amazon to try out. They sound different... not sure why scientifically, but they certainly do. I'm testing the AudioQuest NRG-Z3 vs the Viborg MBU 1501. They both are interesting sonically, but I'm not sure I actually like them fully over the default cable in every category. I'll post my findings later after they have "burned in" some more. Does anyone have a suggestion for a power cable they feel keeps a lush mid bass, but adds a bit more articulation and control etc? One that isn't crazy expensive too. I'm not really into the idea of spending more than 300 bucks on a power cable at this time. And also anyone who doesn't believe in all this please go ahead and make fun of me. I don't mind it. I'd prefer if I didn't hear a difference tbh.

To be honest, like you, I was skeptical at first but with an open mind, I borrowed an audiophile power cable from my friend to use on a little hybrid tube amp at work which was suffering from what sounds like electrical noises when using my IEM (not surprising considering how many laptops and servers connected to same power supply). What do you know? The noise decreased significantly with the audiophile power cable as opposed to cable deniers who insists power cables make absolutely zero difference. Their defence is the tube amp should handle the noise. Ideally yes but unfortunately that's not always the case or the equipment does not reject the noise completely. IMHO, you only need an audiophile cable if you think you have interference issues, minimise interference from the stock power cables themselves, or just want a cleaner power going to your equipment regardless if the equipment handles it or not.
I recently found a great video by Hans on the topic. I have watched so many videos on this topic but the voltage table on the 3 min mark is gold. Cables do matter because of the lower voltages for small detail retrieval and who doesn't want small detail, we are audiophiles afterall


Lastly, I have tested Supra power cables against Krispy Cables (from local cable maker in Sydney, Australia) and the Krispy Cable is definitely better i.e. reduce the noise more. The Furutech ends may help too as they are highly rated. I also tested a generic audiophile power cable with unknown ends and it was the worse of the bunch. Cheers.

 

[Alenotta]

So, the reason I have been exploring power cables and all things power related is my ground loop noise. Unfortunately, the audiophile power cables didn't really do much for that particular issue. They did, however, have an effect on the character of the amp weirdly. One of them was more spacious and enveloping, and one was more detailed and crips "hifi" sounding. I had to go back and forth a lot because I was really expecting there not to be a difference, or for the difference to be minimal. The smoothest and most forgiving was a random unlabeled grey cable I had that is very thick and feels like good quality. I find the lack of information from brands pretty annoying when you're dealing with power cables. It is easy to see why they get labeled as snake oil. So far, like most things I've tested out, it seems like synergy is more important than price point.

 

[Wes S]

If anyone is looking for a quad of Japanese Grey Plate 22DE4's, I would check the classifieds. There is a nice quad for sale, and we all know how hard they are to find at times.

I have no skin in the game and just thought some of you might be interested, as I find rolling rectifiers with this amp is awesome. Heck the only tubes I roll at all these days are the rectifiers, and I love how you can control tonality, bass, and staging with rolling them.

Roll on and happy listening!

 

[dpump]

I have the Raytheon Japan grey plate 22DE4 listed in the classifieds. The sale is pending so probably no longer available. I have 2 more pairs listed in the classifieds if anyone is interested.

 

[Wes S]

Speaking of rectifiers. . .a lot of diligence, a little bit of luck, and a gamble on an obscure ebay listing paid off.

The Japanese 22DE4 Black Plates are some of my favorites and I have been scouring the web for some more for weeks, and look what I just scored. Check out these pristine looking NOS tubes, with perfect labels and boxes, and shiny pins! These things look like they have been kept in a museum.

Of note, the listing just showed pictures of the boxes and had some other random tube types in the lot, so I took a gamble and bought the whole lot knowing that the ITT brand is Japanese. Pretty damn cool when a gamble pays off, and I only paid $25 for the entire lot.

For those looking for 22DE4's, stay diligent and you just might get rewarded for it.

 

[AudioPowerHead]

Speaking of rectifiers. . .a lot of diligence, a little bit of luck, and a gamble on an obscure ebay listing paid off.

The Japanese 22DE4 Black Plates are some of my favorites and I have been scouring the web for some more for weeks, and look what I just scored. Check out these pristine looking NOS tubes, with perfect labels and boxes, and shiny pins! These things look like they have been kept in a museum.



Of note, the listing just showed pictures of the boxes and had some other random tube types in the lot, so I took a gamble and bought the whole lot knowing that the ITT brand is Japanese. Pretty damn cool when a gamble pays off, and I only paid $25 for the entire lot.

For those looking for 22DE4's, stay diligent and you just might get rewarded for it.

Awesome find ! Congrats !! Those black plates are really something. One has to try it to really understand what it can do to the sound.

 

[ARCXENOS]

Since the power supply is separate, a wishful hope of mine is Cayin making an alternate PSU that uses a more common rectifier type (5U4G anyone ?!) as an additional addon

But of course I imagine the technicalities, effort and risk management would not be worth it for them (I am just saying, if the issue is sourcing for stock tubes...I'd buy a set tubeless, if Cayin market researchers are reading this!)...alas 1 can dream

I am definitely a believer in rectifiers changing tone now though, I can already foresee what type of hypothetical amp I will buy in the far future (of maybe 3-4 more years later)

On a side note, time flies, its almost a year since I received my unit.. I am thinking of getting a set of new production Western Electrics for that day

 

[DMITRIY R]

I understand correctly that Cayin HA-300 mk2 - from the factory comes with 300B lamps that are not fully inserted into the landing sockets? Are the other lamps in working position?
I tried to press on the rest of the amplifier tubes. It seemed to me that it was already impossible to drown them deeper.

 

[ARCXENOS]

I understand correctly that Cayin HA-300b mk2 - from the factory comes with 300B lamps that are not fully inserted into the landing sockets? Are the other lamps in working position?
I tried to press on the rest of the amplifier tubes. It seemed to me that it was already impossible to drown them deeper.

For my unit, all of them were solid when they arrived. BUT I have heard from another owner, his came loose, which I suspect could be due to shipping. From my point of view, I believe they should all be inserted in from the start.

 

[Wes S]

I understand correctly that Cayin HA-300 mk2 - from the factory comes with 300B lamps that are not fully inserted into the landing sockets? Are the other lamps in working position?
I tried to press on the rest of the amplifier tubes. It seemed to me that it was already impossible to drown them deeper.

It just depends, and all of them are supposed to be inserted all the way (including the 300B). It's just that in shipping the 300B's are so big and top heavy with only 4 pins for contact, so they can come loose from rough handling during shipping.

Edit - looks like @ARCXENOS beat me to it. Man you are fast!

One last thing, if you are in doubt if any of the tubes are fully seated, just pull them all the way out and reseat them to make totally sure.

 

[jamato8]

Speaking of rectifiers. . .a lot of diligence, a little bit of luck, and a gamble on an obscure ebay listing paid off.

The Japanese 22DE4 Black Plates are some of my favorites and I have been scouring the web for some more for weeks, and look what I just scored. Check out these pristine looking NOS tubes, with perfect labels and boxes, and shiny pins! These things look like they have been kept in a museum.



Of note, the listing just showed pictures of the boxes and had some other random tube types in the lot, so I took a gamble and bought the whole lot knowing that the ITT brand is Japanese. Pretty damn cool when a gamble pays off, and I only paid $25 for the entire lot.

For those looking for 22DE4's, stay diligent and you just might get rewarded for it.

I saw those. I wish I had known there was some black plate as that is one rectifier I don't have, well, there are a number I don't have but the black plate of anything in the 22DE4, are not something I have.

 

[jamato8]

As the Duelund cast copper caps are burning in/forming, they are really, really nice. The sound with the right recordings and the tubes I am using, the sound is extremely, extremely realistic. Wonderful empty space around space, like what you hear in a good stage setting. That transparency with sound coming from what would other be dead quite and natural, if there was minimal noise. The sound emanate, expands and starts and stops almost instantly or trails off, depending upon the voice or instrument. And excellent layering with width and depth.

Most all the internal work on the 300BMK2 and the HA-6A are well done though I don't care for the push connectors on the HA-6A, versus soldering. One wire was not even connected and I had to pull the push pin out, insert the wire and then push the plastic push pin into place, to clamp the wire in place. The function, I don't know as I didn't trace where it was going. I am sure this is a one off as the layout of the HA-6A is nice and well done.

 

[Andykong]

I understand correctly that Cayin HA-300 mk2 - from the factory comes with 300B lamps that are not fully inserted into the landing sockets? Are the other lamps in working position?
I tried to press on the rest of the amplifier tubes. It seemed to me that it was already impossible to drown them deeper.

We tested and measured the amplifier before we pack it up for shipping/inventory, so the 300B tubes should be fully inserted. Wes S has pinpointed the most likely reason if your 300B tubes are not fully inserted at open-box: the tube is relatively big and heavy but being DHT (Direct Heated Triode), it only has 4 pins and the unique design does not include a guide key (the round rod in the middle of the bottom plate that hold the tube in a position like the 22DE4.

Be reminded that when you need to install a 300B vacuum tube, two of the four pins are slightly bigger, you need to align the pins correctly. If you find it too difficult to push in the 300B tubes, make sure you check the pin alignment again and locate the larger pins to the larger holes correctly.