I've really liked the GEs compared to the stock RCAs. How do those Slyvanias and the Raytheons compare to the GEs? I think I have one Slyvania, but not a quad.Good luck with the search for black plate! I have some Sylvanias coming in too. It’s amazing how the 22DE4 rectifier tubes could change the overall sound signature so much in the system.
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Cayin HA-300MK2 (2022) TOTL Transformer coupled Direct Heated Triode Tube HeadAmp (Page 91)
- Thread starter Andykong
- Start date
Sylvania's are tighter top to bottom and hit harder in the bass (especially midbass slam) compared to the GE. The GE are more neutral, and the Raytheons (Japanese grey plates) are more open sounding compared to the GE and Sylvania, with better extension in the subbass and smoother yet just as extended treble compared to both. The Raytheon Grey Plates are a bit dryer than the Sylvania and G.E. as well. Then there is the Raytheon (Japanese Black Plates), that are the warmest/wettest of them all with fuller yet looser bass than all others and the smoothest treble of them all. The Black Plates can be too much of a good thing if you already have enough warmth. Lastly, I have the Sicte 22DE4's as well and those are in a league of their own, with deep slamming tight bass that has just the right amount of bloom in the midbass, with just the right amount of warmth in the mids and a very open and airy sound up top with a huge stage.I've really liked the GEs compared to the stock RCAs. How do those Slyvanias and the Raytheons compare to the GEs? I think I have one Slyvania, but not a quad.
I have mentioned this before, and I still recommend blending "house sounds". Currently, I am running a pair of Sicte 22DE4's in the back two slots, and a pair of Sylvania's in the front two slots and the sound is insane. I actually have quads of all the brands and don't prefer the sound when running just one brand, and like being able to tweak the sound further by blending them.
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steve468
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In terms of blending the 22de4s, is it true that the left 2 are for the left channel and the right 2 for the right channel? I assume that's what's going on, but I realize but I'm not a smart enough person to just assume I know anything at all.
I don't think that's the case. Looking at pics of the internals, the front two are wired together and the back two are wired together, as for what each one rectifies I am not sure.In terms of blending the 22de4s, is it true that the left 2 are for the left channel and the right 2 for the right channel? I assume that's what's going on, but I realize but I'm not a smart enough person to just assume I know anything at all.
@Andykong any info this?
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Here is a real noob fuse question for this amp. Which of the 3 fuses are you all replacing with the Audio Magic M1? I'm assuming the fuse not he power supply and not the two that are located by the tubes?
What options would you do for the m1?
Size:
Blow-Time:
Amps:
UPDATE: Note this image is for the UK version. If you have 120V use the 3.15A size small.
What options would you do for the m1?
Size:
Blow-Time:
Amps:
UPDATE: Note this image is for the UK version. If you have 120V use the 3.15A size small.
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jamato8
Headphoneus Supremus
Postion 7. 2.5 amp slow blow.Here is a real noob fuse question for this amp. Which of the 3 fuses are you all replacing with the Audio Magic M1? I'm assuming the fuse not he power supply and not the two that are located by the tubes?
I see this specs for fuses:
What options would you do for the m1?
Size:
Blow-Time:
Amps:
Thank you that is what I was assuming, but wanted to make sure!Postion 7. 2.5 amp slow blow.
What size? Small?
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jamato8
Headphoneus Supremus
5mmX20mm slow blow or timed, same thing. I use ceramic sand filled Schurter others use mega expensive fuses.Thank you that is what I was assuming, but wanted to make sure!
What size? Small?
Do you like the Schurter fuses? Noticeable improvement over the stock ones? I'm interested in trying any fuse A/Bing. I upgraded the fuse in my Gustard r26 DAC and I'd say the difference wasn't huge so far. It was there though.5mmX20mm slow blow or timed, same thing. I use ceramic sand filled Schurter others use mega expensive fuses.
jamato8
Headphoneus Supremus
The Schurter are not expensive but good quality and while slow blow should have the sand so there is no arcing if the fuse blows, many now days don't. Schurter also has nice gold plated contacts. I didn't really do much comparison but on my two Cayin tube amps, I like what I am hearing in general.Do you like the Schurter fuses? Noticeable improvement over the stock ones? I'm interested in trying any fuse A/Bing. I upgraded the fuse in my Gustard r26 DAC and I'd say the difference wasn't huge so far. It was there though.
Now, this really makes me interested in trying the Sicte 22DE4s as well. But they are hard to find, as usual.Lastly, I have the Sicte 22DE4's as well and those are in a league of their own, with deep slamming tight bass that has just the right amount of bloom in the midbass, with just the right amount of warmth in the mids and a very open and airy sound up top with a huge stage.
Don’t have GE and my Sylvanias have yet to arrive so can’t answer your question unfortunately. But @Wes S is definitely the most knowledgeable among us when it comes to 22DE4s.I've really liked the GEs compared to the stock RCAs. How do those Slyvanias and the Raytheons compare to the GEs? I think I have one Slyvania, but not a quad.
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Do you have a MK1 or MK2, and U.S. (120V) or U.K. (230V) version? The MK1 and MK2 use different fuses by the way, and it's also different for U.S. and U.K. for each version as well. The U.S. version (120V) MK2 uses a 3.15A - slow blow - size small, for the power supply.Thank you that is what I was assuming, but wanted to make sure!
What size? Small?
For reference, here is the MK2 version manual pictured below.
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