[smeggy]

heh, the accidental masterpiece

Ferrari just has a natural knack of doing these things in an amazingly clean and neat way.

 

[dBel84]

yeah, he throws a bankers roll at them

..dB

EDIT: this was tongue in cheek of course, the man is talented without doubt

 

[smeggy]

yeah, that too

 

[Ferrari]

A step closer to completion.

 

[sachu]

Very cool Ferrari...Curious...what is that small tube board in the middle?

 

[Ferrari]

That is a level meter as I often used in my other amps (1, 2).

 

[MrMajestic2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ferrari /img/forum/go_quote.gif That is a level meter as I often used in my other amps (1, 2).

Something like this?
YouTube - Tube level meter

 

[Ferrari]

Yes, something similar!

 

[DoYouRight]

more pictures of that when its done Ferrari, I love the silver and black.

 

[Ferrari]

Will do. Due to the busy work schedule I have to wait until the weekend to go further with it.

In the meantime, here are a couple of pictures during the build…

MOSFET’s mounting on bottom heatsink, beneath the amp PCBs.

As usual, volume knop back lighting with one single LED.

 

[rhester]

When doing intital testing, does pot need to be connected? Input shorted? or anything else special. ready to hook up and see how it goes.

 

[nullstring]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhester /img/forum/go_quote.gif When doing intital testing, does pot need to be connected? Input shorted? or anything else special. ready to hook up and see how it goes.

errrr, I am just browsing, and so I know little about this project.

In any case, I would say that if you short it and hook it up to something with volume control... like an ipod, and start the volume off very low, that'd be fine for testing.

 

[runeight]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhester /img/forum/go_quote.gif When doing intital testing, does pot need to be connected? Input shorted? or anything else special. ready to hook up and see how it goes.

For DC power up and adjustment you don't need to do anything so long as you have R1 on the board. It's a grid leak resistor and keeps the grids grounded if there is no input pot.

 

[Dougie085]

I was planning on building the SOHA II but then someone showed me this project and I have to say it looks much much more interesting. So I think I'm going to go this route in a fully balanced build. I'm curious though which is the better version the Mosfet version or the BJT version? Also who can I get matched tubes for and what is consensus on what are the best tubes for this particular amp? Also need a source for matched transistors I suppose. Hopefully in a week or so I can order this.

 

[sachu]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dougie085 /img/forum/go_quote.gif I was planning on building the SOHA II but then someone showed me this project and I have to say it looks much much more interesting. So I think I'm going to go this route in a fully balanced build. I'm curious though which is the better version the Mosfet version or the BJT version? Also who can I get matched tubes for and what is consensus on what are the best tubes for this particular amp? Also need a source for matched transistors I suppose. Hopefully in a week or so I can order this.

Contact glassjaraudio for the kits. Email Jeff as the kit is not up on his website but he does supply full EHHA kits (MOSFET version only).


No consensus as to which one is better..Those who prototyped the amp said there wasn't much between the two. In any case you could always try them both as it wold only cost another 20$ to get BJT s and associated few passive components for that version.

I have only heard the MOSFET version and I love it.

You don't necessarily need matched tubes as you have adjustments on the PCB to balance the offets between the two triode sections of the tube. It wouldn't hurt though.

Glass jar provides you the 6GM8 tubes as well which IMO are really the best VFM.

6GM8s are very good with this amp but building a heater power supply for the 6H30 in mind would be beneficial if you are feeling spendy.