Cavalli EHHA Embedded Hybrid Headphone Amp
Oct 29, 2010 at 12:25 AM Post #1,681 of 1,823


Quote:
Can you point me to some detailed info on 'shunt' mod. I have alps 'blue velvet' 100k pot.

 

 
sorry, i don't have a pic.  
 
on a pot:
Input = input signal from RCA
W = wiper
G = ground
 
connect W and G together for each channel.  place a 100K resistor in series from the RCA to Input on the pot to each channel.  from the Input after the 100K resistor, connect to the signal inputs on each channel.  the ground from each of the RCAs to should connect at their respective channels on the pot at W and G.  connect the W and G of each channel on the pot to their respective input ground on the boards.  
 
instead of the signal being across the wiper and conductive material,  the signal is "only" across the in-series input resistor.  in this configuration,  the potential divider is adjusted on the ground leg and not the input leg.   
 
Oct 29, 2010 at 4:22 AM Post #1,682 of 1,823
Quote:
out of curiosity, which transistors are you using to replace 2SC2705/2SA1145 in your EHHA? Also, is it just me or are those 6GM8s are awfully bright?

Using the BC556/BC546.
You caught me on the 6GM8s. Just the regular tubes with the LEDs in the background.
 
Quote:
i forget what the quiescent current of the EHHA is, but the o22 is rated for 1A continuous with the recommend heatsinks per AMB's BOM. .  i used the recommended 1.5" Avid Therm. for a +/-30V o22 powering a 3-board B22, with each board drawing 200mA.  my o22 heatsinks barely get warm.     


These are the 1.5" heatsinks, only the branches aren't as spread out as in some of the other pics I have seen.
The mosfets on S22 are getiing only lightly warmed up but the BJTs on EHHA are getting a bit hot.

 
Quote:
 
sorry, i don't have a pic.  
 
on a pot:
Input = input signal from RCA
W = wiper
G = ground
 
connect W and G together for each channel.  place a 100K resistor in series from the RCA to Input on the pot to each channel.  from the Input after the 100K resistor, connect to the signal inputs on each channel.  the ground from each of the RCAs to should connect at their respective channels on the pot at W and G.  connect the W and G of each channel on the pot to their respective input ground on the boards.  
 
instead of the signal being across the wiper and conductive material,  the signal is "only" across the in-series input resistor.  in this configuration,  the potential divider is adjusted on the ground leg and not the input leg. 

Thanks. This is how I understand it - shunt ( on top) as against normal (bottom ) connection. Is it ok ?

edit : replaced the pic with the correct one.
 
Oct 29, 2010 at 10:34 AM Post #1,683 of 1,823
looks good.
 
Nov 1, 2010 at 2:11 PM Post #1,686 of 1,823
Nov 1, 2010 at 4:22 PM Post #1,687 of 1,823
Nov 1, 2010 at 11:40 PM Post #1,689 of 1,823
Nov 2, 2010 at 10:37 AM Post #1,691 of 1,823
Started building one of these but after seeing that dude who threw Alan Rickman from the Nakatomi building's beautiful case work I am gonna be embarrassed to show what I'm working with.  Most of the parts are still in transit anyhow
frown.gif
.
 
Nov 16, 2010 at 11:12 AM Post #1,693 of 1,823
Is it going to be a problem if my heater supply is putting out 7 VCT instead of 6.3? ;p  Should I replace it with a weaker filament transformer?  I haven't really got room in the case for much else... should I scrap the case and use a regulated 6.3v supply?  Expand my build to 4 channel and hope the voltage droops a bit? ;p  Ignore it?  And yes that is 7 volts while it is on and hooked up to 2 ehha boards.  Is it going to do anything besides slightly reduce the lifespan of my tubes?
 
Nov 16, 2010 at 9:14 PM Post #1,694 of 1,823
The specs of most of in-direct heating tubes specify +/- 10%, your 7V is 1% over tolerance @ 111%.
 
Personally I wouldn’t worry...
 
Nov 17, 2010 at 2:59 AM Post #1,695 of 1,823
i would worry, and use a couple of resistors to drop the extra  V. you know the current draw (tube datasheet), you know the drop you need.... ohms law does the rest
 

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