[nick n]

Quote:

I also had a peek inside the amp - this time I wasn't so impressed. The Wima caps from seller description - none of them found, only some cheapo film caps, very sloppy soldering. Just need to wait for some cash to come and I'm going to change few parts inside - replace all film caps with Kemet of Wima, replace pot with hand picked Alps, replace Rubycon electrolits with Nichicon Muse. When done I'll post the update.

I'd like to see that changeup with pics if you can manage. Interesting.Thanks!

 

[docentore]

Quote:

I'd like to see that changeup with pics if you can manage. Interesting.Thanks!

Will do. I just placed an order with Farnell, I should have parts tomorrow. If everything goes well I will do the swap over the weekend while mrs is in college.

 

[Gintaras]

wow sexy looking combo, another happy user and lovely photos, put them to BH hall of fame :-D

 

[vanillazai]

Woooo. Got my T-Peos H200.. Burning them in
 
All that's left is the Colorfly c3.

 

[H20Fidelity]

Woooo. Got my T-Peos H200.. Burning them in

All that's left is the Colorfly c3.

Good pairing, I have that rig along side H-200.

What I recommend to complete your rig is a pure silver interconnect, 'but' not just any pure silver interconnect, one from the eBay seller onest11, which has been proven and recommended. This cable is around $35 USD, gives H-200 / C3 / BH great tonality and separation, we have tested this cable among other popular sellers and onest11's cable wins hands down, I recommend this because his cable really does make all the difference.

Like this.



Unfortunately he doesn't have any listed atm, however if you contact him he can make the cable any length you want or with right angle jacks.

http://myworld.ebay.com.au/onest11/

Onest11''s cables are the bomb, seriously, especially his pure silver, I've been very impressed.

 

[vanillazai]

Quote:

Good pairing, I have that rig along side H-200.

What I recommend to complete your rig is a pure silver interconnect, 'but' not just any pure silver interconnect, one from the eBay seller onest11, which has been proven and recommended. This cable is around $35 USD, gives H-200 / C3 / BH great tonality and separation, we have tested this cable among other popular sellers and onest11's cable wins hands down, I recommend this because his cable really does make all the difference.

Like this.



Unfortunately he doesn't have any listed atm, however if you contact him he can make the cable any length you want or with right angle jacks.

http://myworld.ebay.com.au/onest11/

Onest11''s cables are the bomb, seriously, especially his pure silver, I've been very impressed.

Thanks, i'll give it a check
 
And yeah, the set was recommended by Gintaras,  I couldn't find headphones that i like so far.. Except from the DT770 and ATH M50s, but would be saving up for the V-moda m-100 now.

 

[SkyBleu]

Quote:

Thanks, i'll give it a check
 
And yeah, the set was recommended by Gintaras,  I couldn't find headphones that i like so far.. Except from the DT770 and ATH M50s, but would be saving up for the V-moda m-100 now.

I'm flaunting the set as we speak! With an Onest11 pure silver right-angled cable (pretty much the same one that H20Fidelity recommended you up there) 

 

 

 

 

[Kamakahah]

Well, his profit off those isn't bad. That's about $17 worth of materials. And he isn't overcharging for it like most places.

 

[docentore]

I've received few parts today. I wasn't too careful when taking dimensions of components and most of them are unusable for the mod I had in mind, but here are pictures of what I did so far.
Before the mod:

 
You can see that some of the tantalum caps are darker than other ones, this and lot of bad soldering got me into idea of replacing parts. I'm not saying that my soldering is much better, but quality control definitely is!
All caps are no name apart from 2 film EPCOS by the headphone ports and 3 electroliyc Rubycon (mind that the litycs have certain shelf life and are most common counterfeit component, by buying parts in Farnell I was sure I'm installing genuine parts).
Here is what I replaced so far:

 
Electrolityc caps changed to Panasonic FR (supposingly those are miniaturised FM series) + 4 film caps from Vishay/BC.
Need to replace tantalum caps (I'm thinking of OxiCaps if I will find right size), the rest of dilm caps and pot for Apls.
If anyone needs here is part list with sizes:
3x 1000uF 6.3V 8x11.5mm electrolityc capacitors
2x 0.22uF film caps
2x 0.15uF film caps
2x 0.18uF film caps
2x 0.12uF film caps
2x 0.015uF (15nF) film caps
all film caps need to be 7.2x6.5x2.5mm or smaller
4x 100uF tantalum caps (probably size B).
 
I'm happy with results so far (amp is still working ). Soundwise - I can hear more bass, but it is not leaking or bloated. More comparison will come when I'll have the job 100% done and compare it to unmodded amp.

 

[nick n]

Thanks for the parts list as well.

 

[MoonYeol]

I'm just wondering. Is it possible to swap the battery to a higher mah one and transform the output to 5V since powerbanks use 3.7V batteries and output 5V. Is it possible?

 

[docentore]

Quote:

I'm just wondering. Is it possible to swap the battery to a higher mah one and transform the output to 5V since powerbanks use 3.7V batteries and output 5V. Is it possible?

I don't its worth an effort. 
1. You would need some step up circuit which you would have to place somewhere, and there isn't much space inside.
2. Step up would add noise to the power
3. Some of the parts are rated 6.3v, while powering them with 3.7-4.2v is safe, running 5v through them is close to the safe limit.
my 2 cents

 

[MoonYeol]

I don't its worth an effort. 
1. You would need some step up circuit which you would have to place somewhere, and there isn't much space inside.
2. Step up would add noise to the power
3. Some of the parts are rated 6.3v, while powering them with 3.7-4.2v is safe, running 5v through them is close to the safe limit.
my 2 cents

Thanks! Now I don't have to wonder: "What if". Since I don't know anything at all about electronics. All I know is how to solder the cables my cat ate when she was a kitten.

 

[Ari33]

Quote:

I don't its worth an effort. 
1. You would need some step up circuit which you would have to place somewhere, and there isn't much space inside.
2. Step up would add noise to the power
3. Some of the parts are rated 6.3v, while powering them with 3.7-4.2v is safe, running 5v through them is close to the safe limit.
my 2 cents

 
It is designed to be used while charging so a 5v input via USB should be fine. Anyone ever tried one of these li-ion powerpack with a 5v out USB connector that you get on Ebay, to see how much noise is added?

 

[docentore]

Quote:

 
It is designed to be used while charging so a 5v input via USB should be fine. Anyone ever tried one of these li-ion powerpack with a 5v out USB connector that you get on Ebay, to see how much noise is added?

 
True, but MoonYeol was asking about changing internal power source (battery) from 3.7v to 5v as far as I know. While powering through USB port the voltage is being dropped by drop down circuit.
I think 5v li-ion batterries don't exist anyway, they come in multiplication of 3.7v (3.7, 7.4, 11.1v etc)