Burson Soloist 3X Grand Tourer Head Amp/Pre Amp w/Sub out - 10W XLR
Apr 1, 2024 at 7:04 PM Post #2,236 of 2,266
I was given the opportunity to review, on loan, the Burson 3X GT. I was asked to post my review here. My thoughts were not influnced in any way by outside forces.

My Preferences
I prefer neutral sound. Clarity, proper tonal balance, and good separation are essential to me. If these qualities are sacrificed then I am simply uninterested because it will fail to create realistic sound. The ability to provide slam and great dynamics are also very important, followed by soundstage and imaging. While neutral is my preference I would lean towards slightly bright rather than warm. Also, while v-shaped sound can be done well, I prefer midrange that is present in line with other frequencies, or even slightly forward.

My Headphones
I have many headphones, but did not test all of them with the Burson. I did, however, test some of my best. I tested Hifiman HE1000-v2, Susvara, and HE-560. I also tested what I consider my finest headphone, the Final Audio D8000 Pro. In addition, I very much like and tested my Neumann NDH-30. And finally, I had the opportunity to hear the RAAL CA-1. With some exception, I will describe overall sound, not sound specific to each if the headphones. What I will say, is having the immense amount of power on tap does make a difference.

Genres and Sources
I listened to Tidal, Qobuz, and Youtube. I listened to orchestral, classic rock, heavy metal, and what I would call easy listening, as well as a little jazz. I am pretty diverse in my musical tastes.

I used the Questyle CMA Fifteen as my DAC and also used it with the headphone output to do direct comparisons with the Burson. While I did not do a direct comparison, I also own the GS-X Mk2 amp and the Woo Audio WA5LE, as well as a Teton tube amp. I use an Oppo HA-1 and the Questyle as my DACS to feed those amps. I am very familiar on how each of these sound and feel comfortable talking about how the Burson compares, in a general sense. Due to a combination of convenience and performance, I have used the Questyle most often as both DAC and headhone amp so that should tell you just how highly i regard it,

My Take on Amps and DACs
Generally, if operating properly, I believe DACs are very similar sounding. I believe amps make a bigger difference, but still I would say maybe + or - 5% difference for a max of 10% swing between units - not scientific, obviously, but that's my take. I have many amps and a couple of DACs. I do feel that synergy, due to electrical properties being a match or mismatch, is a real thing and can also account for differences. I say all of this just to let you know where I am coming from when I review and compare the Burson.

UI and Features
The user interface is pretty straight forward. You select your input and gain level and you can select a crossfeed option. Perhaps a nicer/larger display with touch sensitivity could be used to simplify menu navigation but the truth is this is a headphone amp and so there is not a lot going on. In fact one could argue that with a couple more buttons they could do away with the screen altogether.

The crossfeed is done exceptionally well, sonically speaking. I have tried other crossfeed such as on the Chord products and I never cared for it. But I found the crossfeed added to the sound quality, and even added a bit of spaciousness, which is the opposite of what I normally experience with crossfeed. The affects are subtle and you can select how much you want and you can bypass the feature, completely. Being a purist, I typically left crossfeed disabled and so my review is based upon no crossfeed.

I did not try the balance control. Balance control is a great feature, but only if it controls balance on the headphone output and not just the preamp outputs. I have seen others mention that balance only works on the preamp outputs, but as I did not try I cannot say for sure.

Remote Control - I used the unit up close and did not try the remote. But if I was permanently installing this unit in my system I would defintely like the remote control as I listen far away on my main headphone system and value changing the volume without walking up to the unit.

Connectivity
Connectivity is pretty comprehensive. This is a balanced design and I used balanced inputs and a balanced headphone output, but it does have RCA unbalanced and multiple headphone output options. This is not a DAC or streamer so there is no digital connectivity. There is, however, a sub output which I did not use and, frankly, I thought having this feature is a bit strange. This device can be used as a preamp, but I think of it more as a headphone amp and so it's a feature I would have preferred not to have if it could save on cost. But for someone who is using as a preamp to a speaker system and as a headphone amp I suppose it does make this product somewhat unique.

Stock Chipset
I did not swap out the stock chipset but an alternate chipset was provided. I cannot comment on sound differences but I guess I would prefer a different approach to swapping chipsets, one that is more plug and play and does not necessitate opening the amplifier to access the innards.

Sound
Okay, now on to the most important aspect. Afterall, if the unit does not sound good the excellent build quality would be irrelevant. First, I'm not usually in favor of the use of fans, but let me say the fan is absolutely quiet and went unnoticed.

Sound is pretty much what I would expect from a high-end headphone amplifier. It doesn't do anything magical, but then again, would you want it to? I prefer it to present neutral sound and that is exactly what it does. But that's not to say that it doesn't possess special qualities. It does some things sonically that sets it apart from many other amps. These superior qualties are subtle but significant. The bass is strong, full bodied, clear, and tight; it is not overdone or bloomy but also not thin or hollow. It has good texture and you can tell the amp has a tight grip on the headphone drivers. Bass adds to a solid sound with excellent foundation, but it is only going to present bass exactly as the music dictates, no more or less. Slam comes from midbass and midrange and this amp possesses the right amount of slam. Slam will never be a limitation of the amp; again, it presents what the music dictates. Midrange is neither forward or recessed. It is present and rich (if the music is rich) and accurate. As with the other frequencies, the midrange is natural and is delivered as thin, thick or however the music is recorded. Treble is also good. Detail is great and is not achieved through excessive treble. Clarity is also very good. The entire frequency spectrum is cohesive. Nothing jumps out in regard to tonal balance. It's just incredibally balanced and satisfying. But there are many amplifiers that qualify as balanced sounding. So what separates this unit from other high-end amps? There seems to be excellent separation/space between instruments. Soundstage is excellent and size and positioning of instruments or people within the soundstage are well done. Depth is also good. There is just the right amount of "air" too - again, dictated by the recording and not be the amp, but the common theme is that the amp is never a limiting factor to musical enjoyment. It has no real weaknesses but does some things special, making this a really good choice for someone looking for a high-end amp, ESPECIALLY if you have a headphone (like Susvara) that requires power. Every headphone I tried sounded really good through this amp. And it isn't only because of power. My friend has a RAAL CA-1 and uses and 18 watt flux with the RAAL interface box. The Burson in this particular case is outpowered by the Flux, but I never heard the RAAL sound so clear and bold. My Susvara also benefited from the Burson. I found it less anemic with the Burson than with other amps that are very powerful like my GS-X MK2 or the Woo WA5-LE. My go-to headphone is the Final D8000 Pro. It's a very revealing headphone and it sounded great though, to be honest, it didn't sound any better through the Burson than it does through the other amps I use.

Comparisons
So I did most comparisons against the headphone amp portion of my Questyle Fifteen. The Questyle is very good. Unlike the Twelve, I find the Fifteen to be more neutral. A friend of mine thought the Questyle was very slightly brighter, but my opinion was that the overall sound of the Burson may have been SLIGHLTY more clear and open, with SLIGHTLY better treble and separation. Again, the differences were subtle. But where the Burson delivers is when you try powering a RAAL or Susvara. The current-driven Questyle does an excellent job and even with hard-to-drive headphones the Questyle is comparable to Burson, sound quality wise, but you are literally running out of power where the Burson has much more to give.

Recommended?
It really depends on what you are looking for. To be honest, if I had no dedicated power headphone amps already, I would say this would be on my shortlist. But while I think the Burson is a worthy competitor and maybe even superior in some ways, it isn't that much better that it warrants me to replace one of my others. And then there is the elephant in the room - what about value? This souped up Burson is good, but it is expensive. More importantly, you can get something like the Questyle that is competitive performance-wise and also includes a DAC, greatly simplifying the system. Sometimes I go over a friends house. Imagine taking the Burson, a DAC, a laptop, and the headphones with wires running all over the place. Now, picture me taking the Questyle. It has excellent bluetooth, but it benefits from wired USB, but for convenience it cannot be beat. Take the laptop, headphones and the DAC/Amp and you are set. Or even better, take a Fiio R7 and headphones and you are done. Fiio is powerful too. My point is that you can get components that have excellent sound quality with more inclusivity for far cheaper prices. And even if we focus on non-transportable systems, I use an OPPO HA-1 DAC with a Apex Teton tube amp, or my Woo, or the GS-X MK2. Woo is more than Burson, but the GS-X MK2 is excellent and powerful and critically acclaimed and competitive price-wise - not sure how much it is going for now and I know it is probably surpassed by more expensive amps but it defintely is compeitive with the Burson, though I must reiterate that I did not do a direct comparison.

So bottom line - Is the Burson excellent? Yes. If I was in the market for a dedicated amp/preamp or needed lots of power, I would defintely try to audition it. But at this point, if I had nothing I would be seeking, at a minimum, a DAC/Amp combo, if not an AIO streamer/DAC/amp combo for not much more. Burson makes those as well but I have no experience and so I am unable to comment on those.
 
Last edited:
Apr 1, 2024 at 11:36 PM Post #2,237 of 2,266
Many thanks to @SS-Audio for their loaner program. I was able to try the Soloist 3x Grand Tourer in the nice demo at home for a few days and it was a great experience. I'll keep my thoughts short and sweet about the amp. Here's the things I really enjoyed about it:

Build quality: The Soloist 3x Grand Tourer is absolutely built like a tank. A weighty device, and I love the metal chassis giving off the slight industrial look. I love the red potentiometer, though I wish the knob had a bit more resistance and smoothness. There is a Noctua fan built into the top shell of the case, which is a nice little touch, though the fan spinning can be a bit loud with open headphones.

Connections: On the back, XLR and RCAs, ensuring tons of flexibility for the audio setup. On the front, balanced, single ended, and a headset connection. I only utilized the single ended connection since that is largely my setup.

Interface: Fairly easy and intuitive to use. I love that it comes with a remote for added ease, and that the device can be turned vertically as well, with the display adjusting to the orientation. I also enjoyed the multiple gain stages and the crossfeed option was fun to engage for certain tracks.

Sound: Smooth, engaging, natural. Nothing particularly stood out, and my headphones flourished. Pairing with the ZMF Verite Closed, Hifiman Arya, and my old HE-500, were all stellar, particularly the 500, which is fairly demanding when it comes to power.

Overall thoughts: This is a phenomenal amplifier, one which I could envision myself building a very nice endgame solid state setup around. The incredible amount of power this amp puts out absolutely drives every headphone in my collection with ease, and doesn't break a sweat. Jeez, I wish I had an HE-6, Susvara, or Modhouse Tungsten to really put this thing through the paces, because with its gain settings and copious amounts of headroom, this amp could tackle those with little concern.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20240330_235238311.jpg
    PXL_20240330_235238311.jpg
    2.7 MB · Views: 0
Last edited:
Apr 10, 2024 at 11:53 AM Post #2,239 of 2,266
Voyager has a fan too, but its size, placement and the aerodynamics inside makes it virtually noiseless.
I agree it is noiseless and really works well with my ZMF Atrium and Hifiman He1000Se. To be honest I've been switching out amps and Dacs like crazy over the past year and finally more than satisfied with my current system
 
Apr 10, 2024 at 11:58 AM Post #2,240 of 2,266
Voyager has a fan too, but its size, placement and the aerodynamics inside makes it virtually noiseless.
You can do that with the current soloist to, put a noctua fan controller between it. To just calm it down just a little. Only thing important don’t put the amp in a cabinet when doing that, because the amp becomes a little warmer.
 
Apr 10, 2024 at 2:38 PM Post #2,241 of 2,266
You can do that with the current soloist to, put a noctua fan controller between it. To just calm it down just a little. Only thing important don’t put the amp in a cabinet when doing that, because the amp becomes a little warmer.
I might try adding some soft padding under the fan to see if the noise will decrease, but lowering fan speed is totally not recommended given that internal temperature can dramatically increase.
 
Apr 10, 2024 at 3:02 PM Post #2,242 of 2,266
I might try adding some soft padding under the fan to see if the noise will decrease, but lowering fan speed is totally not recommended given that internal temperature can dramatically increase.
You only should lowering the rpm just a little. Adding padding to the fan does not work much. What does work is putting foam under the housing instead of on it’s feet.

Part of the noise is caused by the resonance of the casing causes by the fan.
 
Apr 12, 2024 at 7:50 AM Post #2,243 of 2,266
I am doubting if it is worth the effort to upgrade the soloist 3 xr gt soloist, it seems like it, reading the reviews the 2023 model and higher are extremely better than the 2022 model.

I have not heared the 2023 model so no idea… I have heared the voyager(sounds great!), but not willing to upgrade yet

So is it worthwhile? Somebody exchange the v6 vivids for v7 classic or v7 vivid on the 2022 model?
(I have the supercharger but mis the sp1/sp2 upgrade and upgraded tweaks ofcourse)
I also want to know the answer to this! Have the 2022 model Soloist 3X GT with V6 Vivids and 5A supercharger. Is it worth upgrading the opamps to V7 combo?
 
Apr 15, 2024 at 6:02 PM Post #2,244 of 2,266
So with the V7 Vivid/Classic released now for a while, has anyone tried them in their 3X GT, and if so, does anyone prefer them over Sparkos SS2590 or SIL994?

I still find myself liking the Sparkos and SIL more, but I'm still experimenting and trying to see where the V7 Classic can find a place with these two. Currently, I have two pairs of the SS2590 occupying the voltage and volume gain stages, with either the SIL 994 or V7 Classic in the input gain. I'm having a hard time hearing the difference; perhaps a touch more resolution and bass impact with the SIL, and more warmth and holography with the V7 Classic.

I find the biggest impact is when I swap out the SS2950 in the voltage stage with the V7 Classic. It's tonally much more warm (as expected), but compared to the SS2950, it's not as detailed and imaging takes a hit. It's a tough compromise for me, but the V7 Classic definitely takes some of the edge off the treble and makes it a more relaxing listen overall.

The V7 Vivids can't replace the SS2950, but I did find it to do pretty good in the input gain along with my two pairs of SS2590 in the voltage and volume stages. Haven't put too much time with this configuration.

Too many op amps, not enough places to put them!
 
Last edited:
Apr 15, 2024 at 8:52 PM Post #2,245 of 2,266
Voyager has a fan too, but its size, placement and the aerodynamics inside makes it virtually noiseless.
Yeah i meant to say they wanted a flagship without an audible fan. I think the fan in the GT was a sticking point for some people. I can hear it clearly during silent passages or low volumes. But doesn't really bother me and it's just 2 feet in front of me on the desk. I'm used to hearing PC ambient noise in the room. I have few noctua low noise adapters and fan controller for my other PCs but don't want to risk it on the soloist. The voyager gets much hotter than the soloist according to Sandu (12C more).
 
Apr 17, 2024 at 12:09 PM Post #2,246 of 2,266
Been having an issue with my Soloist 3X GT (not the 2023 model with the silent power modules)

Been working fine since I got it last year, but now, I hear a faint but very noticeable static like sound that varies with amplitude on the right channel.
I was advised by the vendor I purchased it from to swap the V6 vivids from left to right and indeed, the noise went from the right to left channel.

I assume from that troubleshooting steps, we can safely assume a defective v6 vvid op-amp?
(other troubleshooting steps I took include disconnecting all inputs, trying different cables and headphones, it seems to be only noticeable using XLR headphone out, tried with supercharger 5a vs stock cales, different power outlets etc).

Communicating with Burson takes forever, despite the time zone difference, I only get 1 email per day (many times longer than that), so back and forth has been going on for weeks. They want me to try the IC op-amp provided in the box to troubleshoot further, but I am unsure regarding the orientation of these op-amps. With the v6 vivds, I just took a photo of the board, so I can make sure the orientation remains the same, but there is no semi-circle notch on the ic op-amps.

Furthermore, when I opened the unit, 2 small metal tabs (See photos) were on my hand. I don't see any damage anywhere, honestly it looks like its from the case where the screws were, but now I'm afraid it might be something else.

So , my questions are:
1) Anyone can advise on the proper orientation for the ic op-amps?
2) should I just replace all 3 v6 op-amps on the left channel?
3) should i send the unit in for repair due to those little metal pieces?

It's now been 3 weeks with the back and forth with Burson and I'm getting no where. It's a little frustrating.

Thanks for your help!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0228.jpeg
    IMG_0228.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_0229.jpeg
    IMG_0229.jpeg
    1.1 MB · Views: 0
Apr 17, 2024 at 12:37 PM Post #2,247 of 2,266
Been having an issue with my Soloist 3X GT (not the 2023 model with the silent power modules)

Been working fine since I got it last year, but now, I hear a faint but very noticeable static like sound that varies with amplitude on the right channel.
I was advised by the vendor I purchased it from to swap the V6 vivids from left to right and indeed, the noise went from the right to left channel.

I assume from that troubleshooting steps, we can safely assume a defective v6 vvid op-amp?
(other troubleshooting steps I took include disconnecting all inputs, trying different cables and headphones, it seems to be only noticeable using XLR headphone out, tried with supercharger 5a vs stock cales, different power outlets etc).

Communicating with Burson takes forever, despite the time zone difference, I only get 1 email per day (many times longer than that), so back and forth has been going on for weeks. They want me to try the IC op-amp provided in the box to troubleshoot further, but I am unsure regarding the orientation of these op-amps. With the v6 vivds, I just took a photo of the board, so I can make sure the orientation remains the same, but there is no semi-circle notch on the ic op-amps.

Furthermore, when I opened the unit, 2 small metal tabs (See photos) were on my hand. I don't see any damage anywhere, honestly it looks like its from the case where the screws were, but now I'm afraid it might be something else.

So , my questions are:
1) Anyone can advise on the proper orientation for the ic op-amps?
2) should I just replace all 3 v6 op-amps on the left channel?
3) should i send the unit in for repair due to those little metal pieces?

It's now been 3 weeks with the back and forth with Burson and I'm getting no where. It's a little frustrating.

Thanks for your help!




pin 1 shows the direction/orientations.watch the youtube video.
 
Apr 17, 2024 at 1:41 PM Post #2,248 of 2,266
Been having an issue with my Soloist 3X GT (not the 2023 model with the silent power modules)

Been working fine since I got it last year, but now, I hear a faint but very noticeable static like sound that varies with amplitude on the right channel.
I was advised by the vendor I purchased it from to swap the V6 vivids from left to right and indeed, the noise went from the right to left channel.

I assume from that troubleshooting steps, we can safely assume a defective v6 vvid op-amp?
(other troubleshooting steps I took include disconnecting all inputs, trying different cables and headphones, it seems to be only noticeable using XLR headphone out, tried with supercharger 5a vs stock cales, different power outlets etc).

Communicating with Burson takes forever, despite the time zone difference, I only get 1 email per day (many times longer than that), so back and forth has been going on for weeks. They want me to try the IC op-amp provided in the box to troubleshoot further, but I am unsure regarding the orientation of these op-amps. With the v6 vivds, I just took a photo of the board, so I can make sure the orientation remains the same, but there is no semi-circle notch on the ic op-amps.

Furthermore, when I opened the unit, 2 small metal tabs (See photos) were on my hand. I don't see any damage anywhere, honestly it looks like its from the case where the screws were, but now I'm afraid it might be something else.

So , my questions are:
1) Anyone can advise on the proper orientation for the ic op-amps?
2) should I just replace all 3 v6 op-amps on the left channel?
3) should i send the unit in for repair due to those little metal pieces?

It's now been 3 weeks with the back and forth with Burson and I'm getting no where. It's a little frustrating.

Thanks for your help!
If you're looking to replace your V6 Vivids, I have 6 for sale for a good price in the classifieds.
 
Apr 17, 2024 at 2:02 PM Post #2,249 of 2,266
1) Anyone can advise on the proper orientation for the ic op-amps?
might help, but please check also https://www.bursonaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Opamp-Install.jpg and https://www.circuits-diy.com/ne5532-dual-low-noise-op-amp-datasheet/#NE5532_Pinout too.

2) should I just replace all 3 v6 op-amps on the left channel?
I would suggest you to do exactly what Burson told you to. I suppose you might be better off to mark with a permanent marker the possible defective op-amp and to swap all op-amps with the NE5532 ones. Just make sure you power the device off, unplug the power adapter from the device and wait for about 30 sec. until all capacitors have been fully discharged.

3) should i send the unit in for repair due to those little metal pieces?
Have no idea what those metal parts are. Do you think you could do some more shots, preferable from more angles and with a macro 1:1 lens and daylight (maybe outside light)? Meanwhile, disconnect the power adapter, open up the top case and turn the device upside down, then rotate it 90 to 270 degrees for a few times, just to be sure that no other small metallic parts are left inside the case.

Looking forward for some updates from you and good luck. I'm pretty sure only that specific V6 op-amp is defective, but let's do some other steps prior to the final thoughts.
 
Apr 19, 2024 at 1:43 PM Post #2,250 of 2,266

Users who are viewing this thread

  • Back
    Top