Broken AD2000 coil fix
Aug 29, 2011 at 10:44 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 5

tranhieu

Member of the Trade: DIY Amp Builder - AKA kytuphicanh
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During my midnight listen I discovered the left driver went on and off as I twiched the cable, and few minutes later it went completely dead. Scared as I was (they are my friend's phones), the diy spirit within was awaken and after 4 hours with sweat and tears, the AD2000 were revived. I learned quite a lot from this incident and reckon some of you guys here might find my experiences useful.
 
Btw, if my memory still serves me well my friend bought this one from UncleErik few years ago :D
 
I started with disassembling the phones, it'd be a piece of cake if you have the right screwdriver and took me only seconds to remove the driver from its housing.

Notice the small pcb there? I made a grave mistake not being able to figure that the coils goes underneath, thus only after the pcb was lifted did I realise I'd also broken the 2 coils. It did not make much different though since the 2 solder joints were still intact hence one of the coil must have been broken due to some intensive force caused by stressing the cable too much.
One interesting thing I notice was that during the recabling process Moon audio did not make a conventional knot but they used some sort of plastic cable instead (what's it called again? I dont remember), this might look prettier but over time they will become useless and there's a high chance you will have to do some diy later on.
 

This was what I ended up with after finished fixing the coils. The new redish wires are 2 strands of a telephone cable I came across. I'm not a cable fanboy and I dont think using these strands will alter the sound whatsoever, as long as they are soft and small enough for the job they are ideal for fixing up the coils.
 
So the lessons learnt are:
- Never pull the cable all the way out.
- Figure out how the housing is assembled first before proceeding the next step, I broke the coils 3 times while trying to assemble the whole things after done with the soldering. It really was a pain since the left over of the coils was only 1 or 2 millimeters and my iron's tip was bulky one(seriously I'm not joking!). I even had to scrape some of that white wax like stuff of to dig up some more of the coils~~
- Tin the coils, or you will regret later!
- Let the solder burnt for 2 or 3 secs so that all the flux will evaporate. That will make it easier to tin the tiny coils.
- Hot glue rules! (the photo does not show it but before putting the driver back I applied some onto the soldering joints to make sure that will be the last time I had to open it up)
 
well, that's pretty much of it. The phones are working fine now and I don't notice any change in terms of sound.
 
 
 
 
Aug 29, 2011 at 12:32 PM Post #2 of 5
Don't put hotglue against bare copper unless you want to corrode the copper after a few months.
Epoxy is better.

Strain relief indeed matters if you want a headphone recable to last.

Flux crud can be wiped off with a damp sponge, no need to let it burn, and in fact, you shouldn't do that. Solder is also metal and should be used quickly unless you want cold/improper joints.
 
Aug 30, 2011 at 2:20 AM Post #3 of 5


Quote:
Don't put hotglue against bare copper unless you want to corrode the copper after a few months.
Epoxy is better.


I've never heard of that before. What causes the corrosion?
 
Doesn't Blue Circle Audio put hot glue all over their amp innards?
 
 
Aug 30, 2011 at 4:21 AM Post #4 of 5


Quote:
I've never heard of that before. What causes the corrosion?
 
Doesn't Blue Circle Audio put hot glue all over their amp innards?
 

Yeah I dont know about that either. I always use hot glue to secure the joints inside my LODs and they have been working great so far (more than a year already).
But thanks for the suggestion btw Mad Max :)
That Thingy dac/amp is the ugliest piece of audio equipment I ever knew!
 
 
 
Aug 30, 2011 at 5:35 PM Post #5 of 5
Well, there are those who don't believe it makes an audible difference.
 

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