[HOWIE13]

  I'm glad you finally got your V3 working properly!
The Voltages, 13.5-15.5, are just a guideline and you should adjust them for the least amount of crosstalk and distortion by ear. 

 
Good to learn you have your amp working well. Luckily nothing was damaged during the learning process.
 
I find it impossible to bias in such a way that the total bias voltages combined are ever more than 24V.
 
So if I bias one channel at 13V and then the other one at 13V, when I go back and check the first channel I biased it's automatically fallen to 11V. 
 
So I just settle on about 11V both channels and they sound fine with no distortion or damaged tubes.

 

[Didhefocus]

   
Good to learn you have your amp working well. Luckily nothing was damaged during the learning process.
 
I find it impossible to bias in such a way that the total bias voltages combined are ever more than 24V.
 
So if I bias one channel at 13V and then the other one at 13V, when I go back and check the first channel I biased it's automatically fallen to 11V. 
 
So I just settle on about 11V both channels and they sound fine with no distortion or damaged tubes.

Yes, because of the shared power supply, the voltages affect each other. You have to keep going back and forth between the channels until you get the right balance and voltage you're looking for! The individual tube you have installed will make a difference also.

 

[Didhefocus]

Mine are reading 14.2 and 13.5 volts right now! I may balance them later.

 

[HOWIE13]

  Mine are reading 14.2 and 13.5 volts right now! I may balance them later.

 
So you can have a total voltage of around 27- 28V. That's interesting. I've never been able, with many tubes, to have a total above 24V.
 
I wonder if our different mains electricity supply makes a difference.

 

[Didhefocus]

   
So you can have a total voltage of around 27- 28V. That's interesting. I've never been able, with many tubes, to have a total above 24V.
 
I wonder if our different mains electricity supply makes a difference.

I don't think that's the right way to look at it. The two channels don't spit the available voltage, they both get the full 24v, but since the power rail is shared, there is a voltage drop until the power stabilizes.  They can both theoretically be up to 24v each! This is why this amp has so much crosstalk distortion! One of the more advanced upgrades is to replace/modify the power supply. It may be linked or referenced earlier in this thread.

 

[HOWIE13]

 
I don't think that's the right way to look at it. The two channels don't spit the available voltage, they both get the full 24v, but since the power rail is shared, there is a voltage drop until the power stabilizes.  They can both theoretically be up to 24v each! This is why this amp has so much crosstalk distortion! One of the more advanced upgrades is to replace/modify the power supply. It may be linked or referenced earlier in this thread.

 
I think I understand. What I don't understand though is how some people can bias both their tubes at, say 15V and I can't. The max I can bias both tubes equally is 12V. I've use about 50 different tubes as well. Mind you the sound is fine, no complaints there.

 

[kdb424]

So I've owned this amp for months now and have interchangeably used the 6922EH tube that came with it, and several 12au7a tubes. Sounds great on all of them, though with the 21au7a tubes, only one of the 2 heatsyncs gets hot, but the 6922EH will heat both of them. I've seen discussion that says that tubes or the amp will get damaged, though I have not experienced anything thus far to tubes or the amp, and everything remains functional and enjoyable. I'm not suggesting that anyone run the "wrong" tubes, but I'm not sure at this point what wrong is. I'll definately report back if I have any issues, but it be great if someone can put a wrap up on a single post of all supported tubes, so if someone wanted to roll tubes, they could easily find that in one place. Thus far I have only tried 21au7a tubes, and the stock 6922EH tube.
 
Maybe someone can weigh in on the difference between 12au7a and 12au7. I believe the a is low power which could explain why my amp is acting this way? Not worried as it's not enough money to care if things die, but purely curious for the learning sake.

 

[HOWIE13]

  So I've owned this amp for months now and have interchangeably used the 6922EH tube that came with it, and several 12au7a tubes. Sounds great on all of them, though with the 21au7a tubes, only one of the 2 heatsyncs gets hot, but the 6922EH will heat both of them. I've seen discussion that says that tubes or the amp will get damaged, though I have not experienced anything thus far to tubes or the amp, and everything remains functional and enjoyable. I'm not suggesting that anyone run the "wrong" tubes, but I'm not sure at this point what wrong is. I'll definately report back if I have any issues, but it be great if someone can put a wrap up on a single post of all supported tubes, so if someone wanted to roll tubes, they could easily find that in one place. Thus far I have only tried 21au7a tubes, and the stock 6922EH tube.
 
Maybe someone can weigh in on the difference between 12au7a and 12au7. I believe the a is low power which could explain why my amp is acting this way? Not worried as it's not enough money to care if things die, but purely curious for the learning sake.

 
As far as I understand 12AU7 and 12AU7a tubes are electrically the same, the 'a' type being less microphonic, though not necessarily sounding any better.
 
http://www.wooaudio.com/docs/tube_data/12AU7.pdf

 

[mateusfig]

  So I've owned this amp for months now and have interchangeably used the 6922EH tube that came with it, and several 12au7a tubes. Sounds great on all of them, though with the 21au7a tubes, only one of the 2 heatsyncs gets hot, but the 6922EH will heat both of them. I've seen discussion that says that tubes or the amp will get damaged, though I have not experienced anything thus far to tubes or the amp, and everything remains functional and enjoyable. I'm not suggesting that anyone run the "wrong" tubes, but I'm not sure at this point what wrong is. I'll definately report back if I have any issues, but it be great if someone can put a wrap up on a single post of all supported tubes, so if someone wanted to roll tubes, they could easily find that in one place. Thus far I have only tried 21au7a tubes, and the stock 6922EH tube.
 
Maybe someone can weigh in on the difference between 12au7a and 12au7. I believe the a is low power which could explain why my amp is acting this way? Not worried as it's not enough money to care if things die, but purely curious for the learning sake.

I have (wrongly) done this also.One of heatsinks always hotter. Now I finally come back to right tube (6922). Alright, I don't recommend you use 12AU7. This will damage your amp anytime and the sound is worst (thin) at all.

 

[Monarus]

Hi, don't mean to sound like a moron but... The V3 is better than the V2 right? Still kinda new to the audiophile stuff and I know the naming schemes on some stuff is pretty confusing. Looking to buy a more affordable amp and was looking at the V2 and V3.

 

[Didhefocus]

  Hi, don't mean to sound like a moron but... The V3 is better than the V2 right? Still kinda new to the audiophile stuff and I know the naming schemes on some stuff is pretty confusing. Looking to buy a more affordable amp and was looking at the V2 and V3.

In this case the higher Versions are not necessarily better...just different. The V3 is exactly like the V1 but with a passive EQ. I own a V3 and have bypassed the EQ(see earlier posts) since it makes it sound worse and doesn't have as much gain. I should have bought the V1 but the V3 was cheaper at the time! The V2 has a different bias circuit and uses 12XXX type tubes instead of 6XXX type. The 12XXX tubes are a little cheaper and more readily available. I bought a Little Bear P-1 for a lot less than the Bravo and I like it a lot better. It's like the V1 but with a few additional features like a preamp output, a delayed turn on relay and the ability to switch between 6 and 12 series tubes!
Welcome!

 

[mariposastar]

Hello,
 
I just received a Bravo V3 today. I have read this thread in its entirety and noted the most common mods, like the IRL510s. I had a question that is specifically noise-related. Are there any mods that I can do to reduce noise? My V3 has a lot of it, even when I have removed mobile phones etc. from anywhere nearby. I'm decently skilled with electronics so I can probably make sense of any suggestions...
 
Thank you!

 

[Didhefocus]

  Hello,
 
I just received a Bravo V3 today. I have read this thread in its entirety and noted the most common mods, like the IRL510s. I had a question that is specifically noise-related. Are there any mods that I can do to reduce noise? My V3 has a lot of it, even when I have removed mobile phones etc. from anywhere nearby. I'm decently skilled with electronics so I can probably make sense of any suggestions...
 
Thank you!

Welcome mariposastar,
What sort of noise are you experiencing? Hum, Hiss, crackles...etc.  A brand new Bravo should be fairly quiet even though they aren't the quietest amps! I only notice some mild background hum when music is silent due to the cheap included power supply.

 

[mariposastar]

 
Welcome mariposastar,
What sort of noise are you experiencing? Hum, Hiss, crackles...etc.  A brand new Bravo should be fairly quiet even though they aren't the quietest amps! I only notice some mild background hum when music is silent due to the cheap included power supply.

 
Thank you for the response! I am experiencing a mix of hisses and crackles. Finding a different locale to use the unit in did not appear to help. Music quality is fine and at my listening volume it drowns out this hissing and crackling. However if a song has a quieter part it becomes rather ugly as the hissing and crackling is readily audible ):

 

[Didhefocus]

If you have another tube, that would be a good first and easy test. Try re-seating or rocking the tube while listening at a low volume. A bad solder joint is another thing to check by prodding and poking all the components with a non-conductive stick or tool while listening (low volume) and hear for noises as you poke and prod.
I don't know how you got the V3 but try getting a replacement from the seller as it shouldn't be that noisy when new!